Track bar and tie rod: What hits, what doesn't?
- Thread starter StG58
- Start date
I didnt even think of that. I dont mind a bit of paint missing. With 1 inch of bump i am at 14.5 for the shock housing. With 1.5 bump I can fit a 15 inch stock. My spring gets a bit loose after 8 inchs of down travel.
The MC trackbar uses a heim in a high wear orientation. I'd suggest going with something with a JJ instead.
What looks good on the ramp or trailer doesn't always carry over to the rocks.
Still, there appears to be a gain with 35s. My 33s with stock fenders and the body lift need about 1.5" of extension. It looks like Alex is getting another inch of tire with a little less extension. Could be better, could be worse.
That's the way to think about this. One caveat in the juggling of compromises is that longer bump stops also mean a longer compressed shock.
What to what are you measuring?
Where the shock mounts to the axle to the top of the housing.
How long are they?
Exactly 1 incch
So you're saying that the MC fenders allow for 1"+ of travel on an otherwise stock Jeep?
Without me reading this entire thread, did you compare actual tire size (with compensation for tread wear) and ride height? I think tire size is going to quickly effect the gain due to the angle of the fender behind the tire.
If you go too far your tire will push the stronger MC fenders and bend the tub. Use moderation.
As of now then I will be thinking of going with the 1.5 bump numbers.
Thanks for all the help guys. I'll check in again hopefully next week when I get the track bar and measure the drivers side. Then I'll be on a quest to find shocks that fit better.
These are estimates based on what I see here and what I know about mine. It appears as though on an existing setup for 33s under stock fenders, 35s can fit with little to no additional BS extension. On an existing setup with 35s under stock fenders, some BS extension may be reduced if the shocks (etc) don't get in the way. We are talking no more than a generous 1.375" somewhere depending on the tires, shocks, etc being compared. Make the most of it.
As you have shown, this doesn't carry very well into 37s because of the interference at the back fender wall.
I believe your right. I would think with 37s you would actually need more bump due to the rear.
The blue area I circled is my point of contact.
It's neat how you can begin to make predictions once you understand what to look at.
And to think this all could have been answered years ago....
Awesome work, seeing it done this way is a bit more understandable vs a picture with highlights, circles and numbers IMO. Once you cycle everything it really becomes clear that bumpstops are a very important piece that are more-often-than-not are just a guess. Doing this is giving you every bit of travel possible.
Awesome work, seeing it done this way is a bit more understandable vs a picture with highlights, circles and numbers IMO. Once you cycle everything it really becomes clear that bumpstops are a very important piece that are more-often-than-not are just a guess. Doing this is giving you every bit of travel possible.
It was a great learning experience for me. I didn't realize just how much of a difference having the opposite side at full droop would make.
When I describe bump stop extensions and where the requirements are, this is exactly why I mention tires mashing into the front fender sheet metal at full flex. There is less room up front than in back.
I have the MC trackbar and a Dana 44 W/ 4.5 in of lift. Would I just be extra sure my bumpstops are correct to prevent damage?