Track Bar Replacement

Eddie Greenlee

Eddie Greenlee

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i got to thinking about the track bar and watched a few vids and read some articles. Not sure if its important if you change the OEM track bar when you put a 4" lift on or not.
Another question I have is Why would you get the entire OEM track bar when its not the track bar thats broken/ can you not replace the bushings inside the OEM track bar?? i guess you would have to have them pressed out and then then new pressed in?
I would like your opinions. and lets just say the old bushings are confirmed (bad). May be the boots are busted or .... but the track bar is not bent.
thanks.
 
Eddie Greenlee said:
i got to thinking about the track bar and watched a few vids and read some articles. Not sure if its important if you change the OEM track bar when you put a 4" lift on or not.
Another question I have is Why would you get the entire OEM track bar when its not the track bar thats broken/ can you not replace the bushings inside the OEM track bar?? i guess you would have to have them pressed out and then then new pressed in?
I would like your opinions. and lets just say the old bushings are confirmed (bad). May be the boots are busted or .... but the track bar is not bent.
thanks.
Click to expand...
Yes it is okay to run the stock track bar with a 4" lift. Yes you can replace the bushings. However on an OEM track bar the bushings can be a little of a pain to remove. That is why a lot of people just replace the bar. The stock track bar price vs time and headache. But this would be a great time to upgrade the track bar if you have the coin to do so.
 
this might seem to be a stupid question but,... what would (technically speaking) a ( curry, tough stuff,....) upgraded track bar offer over the OEM. I know there is a lot of engineering technology that goes into all track bars but for the intended purpose it seems the only up grade is in the $$$.
 
I do realize there are geometrical designs ( that have been around for ever) that are to in-depth to go into and i have read up on the center lines of stability but would an adjustable really help over the OEM?
 
Stick with your stock bar and then put your lift on. The answers to your questions will become obvious over time.;)
 
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well I bought the jeep a year ago with the 4" lift on it. So no choice in that matter, but I was just wondering what a rebuilt ( new bushings) or an upgrade track bar might offer me.
 
@Eddie Greenlee I with you about weighing out the options. It boils down to this. Stay with OEM bar and replace bushings ($30-35 for bushings, a couple of hrs of getting them out and new back in) New OEM bar ($100 or so and an thirty minutes to swap) Adjustable bar ($150- ???? still only take about thirty min to remove and install). So for the little difference in $$, you may want to upgrade and get the ability to adjust and get the correct angles on your Jeep. It will pay off in the long run.
 
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Eddie an adjustable bar offers you just that--adjustability. Is your axle centered now? Are you happy with the ride/steering? Then maybe just new bushings and move on. If you plan on any type of modifications in the future to the suspension I would put an adjustable on there. I have had factory, replacement non adjustable bar provided with my lift and now an adjustable JKS. I won't trade my JKS.
The bottom line is do what floats your boat.
 
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thanks guys, that has helped . I just like knowing the how, where and why. keeping in mind the old saying if its not broke dont fix it. ha. Ill get back to that post if and when i change things .
 
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Not trying to hijack. I have a very similar question so thought you may want it in the same place? I was looking at adjustable track bars also. I looked at Rough Country because my jeep came with a 3.25 " Rough Country lift - so pretty close to your situation. It appears that there are 2 that would fit. Here is Morris 4x4's explanation of the difference in the 2 parts. Why would we want one over the other? Or would a different brand be better? The 1083 appears to have a bracket as well and the 7572 does not.

"The 1083 is a forged bar, so it will give you more durability and stability. The 7572 has the heim joint end, which is serviceable and allows for more articulation over the standard round bushing end. "
 
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The heim joint on the end of the track bar may give better articulation, but it will be destroyed in short order (just ask anyone with a Metalcoak track bar, I believe @Ahoragi comes to mind.
 
With the 4" lift, I would gather your front axle is now off center, unless the previous owner re-drilled the hole on the axle end, in which case you should address that. Re-drilling the hole to the driver side makes for a weak point. If it wasn't drilled and is still in the factory location, then your front axle is most likely off center. No long range problems with that, unless you flex your suspension, then you may get rubbing at one end because the axle is offset to one side. Also, if your stock bushing is wore out, chances are that the tie rod end on the frame side is questionable. That end is not replaceable unless you replace the entire track bar. Granted, the factory TB is a lot less expensive than an aftermarket one, but if you're going to spend the money, spend a little more and get an adjustable one to get your axle centered proper. JKS and Currie have rebuildable joint ends for the frame side, so you can repair them when they wear out.
 
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in re-visiting this topic I do see where the front axle may be not centered perfectly by maybe a 1/2". BUT I do see where there seems to be and additional hole drilled in the bracket on the passenger side of the track bar. It looks to be plenty of steel left around the bolt. looks like the new hole is about an inch to the right of the original hole (unless the bracket had two holes in it from the factory). So with a new adjustable track bar it would mount in the original hole and all the adjustments would be made through the adjustment collar. right? and then you could really get things perfectly aligned.
 
Eddie Greenlee said:
in re-visiting this topic I do see where the front axle may be not centered perfectly by maybe a 1/2". BUT I do see where there seems to be and additional hole drilled in the bracket on the passenger side of the track bar. It looks to be plenty of steel left around the bolt. looks like the new hole is about an inch to the right of the original hole (unless the bracket had two holes in it from the factory). So with a new adjustable track bar it would mount in the original hole and all the adjustments would be made through the adjustment collar. right? and then you could really get things perfectly aligned.
Click to expand...

Correct.
 
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now question # 2 are the REAR sway bar links changed out from stock links when 4" lift kits are installed?? and why does the rear axle not have a track bar?
 
Eddie Greenlee said:
now question # 2 are the REAR sway bar links changed out from stock links when 4" lift kits are installed?? and why does the rear axle not have a track bar?
Click to expand...

Yes, longer sway bar end links should be added to the rear sway bar, and there IS a rear track bar. Most lift kits utilize a relocation bracket for the rear track bar so you can still use the factory TB. You can purchase an adjustable track bar for the rear as well and avoid installing the relocation bracket.
 
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