Transfer Case Shifter Handle Extension

Maso

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Sep 29, 2017
Messages
158
Location
Geelong, Victoria, Australia
I finally got around to extending my Transfer Case Shift Lever. My jeep is the 2006 65th Anniversary with the automatic and as I am in Australia, it's Right Hand drive.
Here is a basic description of how I went about it. The photos explain it better.
The Console on the 05 and 06 are split, (not too sure about other models) so you only have to remove the front half, you don't need to remove the part between the seats.
1st, remove the rubber cup holders. There's a bolt under there, remove it.
Then pull off the Automatic Transmission Shifter handle, it just pulls straight up with a bit of force.
If you didn't buy your TJ new, just have a look under the shifter handle to make sure the Previous Owner didn't put a screw in there to hold it on, you never know!
Once the handle is off, lever out the Shift Bezel, I found it easier to start at the back, once that came out,
the rest popped out without any force. Then pull out the globe holder from the Bezel.
There's another screw holding down the Console, which was hidden by the Bezel, remove that now.
Then work the Console up and out. If you still have your original Transfer Case Shifter, you migh have to shift into 4 Low to get the Console out.
Now remove the Transfer Case Shifter Handle, put it in 2H then pull the pin out from the end of the handle.
I shifted to 4L to unclip the spring from the handle, then just wiggled the handle out.
Then it was pretty much weld on the extension, paint and reinstall.
I used a M12 bolt and cut it to the required length before welding. It was a galvanized bolt, so I had to remove the galvanizing before I welded it, as it's not too good for your health. The easiest way to remove the galvanizing was to soak it in vinegar. I just bought the cheapist vinegar from the supermarket and soaked the bolt in it over night. I had my doubts if it would work, but by next morning it was stripped clean. You can actually see the vinegar starting to attack the galvanizing as soon as you pour it on.
The thread in my Shifter Knob was M16, the bolt I used for my extension was M12. I had to install an M16 to M12 thread insert into the Shifter Knob so it would screw onto my extension.
Because I made the new Shift Lever straight, it comes very close to the back of the Console when in 4L, it doesn't touch, so I will see how it goes. If I do it again, I would angle it forward a bit so it doesn't come back as far when in 4L.
Before I installed the Console, I replaced the tape on the wiring that sits under there as it gets hot. I also put down some of that Dynamat stuff over the Transmission tunnel.
I still have to put a lock ring or something under the Shift Knob to stop it turning, so that will hide the exposed threads. It is on very tight though.
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Definitely feels a lot better to change than the original handle did. The original handle just didn't feel right when changing into 4H or 4L.
Anyway, I'm happy and that's all that matters. Now, what to do next.
 
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Sweet write up! Even though I'll probably never to that, I love seeing what other people can do. And the pics really help explain what's going on under the console — great info if I ever need to get in there for anything else.

Dynamat was a nice touch while you were in there!
 
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I like the combo. I know it's cheaper and probably more personally satisfying to modify the stock shifter, but I think i'm going to order the already-made shift rod & shifter knob from ebay. Then I'll have a back-up in case I manage to screw anything up...

Edit: placed the order for both. I will post an evaluation when they arrive.
 
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@Maso, a couple questions - does the console remove ok with the t/c handle (stock version) still attached? I noticed yours is already cut off in the removal photos...

Do you have a link to the shift knob & threaded insert you used, in case someone wants to duplicate your mod?
 
@Maso, a couple questions - does the console remove ok with the t/c handle (stock version) still attached? I noticed yours is already cut off in the removal photos...

Do you have a link to the shift knob & threaded insert you used, in case someone wants to duplicate your mod?

The Console will remove ok with the original Shift Handle, you have to move it to 4L and the console will lift over it.

The Shifter Knob I used I bought from Ebay, Do a search for -
BLACK W WHITE INLAY TRANSFER CASE SHIFT KNOB FOR JEEP YJ TJ JK GEAR SHIFER.
Seller was - autostars_inc. It came from the US so it will be easier for you guys over there.

The Threaded Insert I used came from China. I did a search for -
Select Size M2 - M18 Stainless Steel Key Locking Lock Thread Repair Insert.
Seller was - dorladream2011
 
Found this shift knob, which, according to the ebay ad, has the proper threads to match the ebay shift lever above:

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5337789113&icep_item=272049079191
View attachment 57403
View attachment 57404
The two ebay items arrived Wednesday, I'm impressed with the quality of both. The shift rod looks like oem quality, and the knob threads on perfectly, and comes with a round jam nut with two wrench flats (not hex like in the photo above)...both are really nice. Stay tuned for install pics.

@Maso, I hope you don't mind my tacking on to your thread...great job by the way. I love the look and the functionality of your mod. Inspired me enough to order the parts...

FYI, I checked, and my console is the same on my '04. I think the interiors changed in '03, and were the same until '06.
 
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In the interest of full disclosure, my shifter mod was a dud. What looked to be a quality shift rod was not. It was just slightly different enough from the oem rod that, while I was able (with a lot of effort, and a few choice words) to get it installed, it just would not shift right. Getting the TC into 4hi, 4lo, neutral, and back again into 2hi was a struggle, vague, and didn't go smoothly at all; I could not achieve that definite 'chunk' of the TC going into gear...I took the whole thing apart, more than once, ground down here, bent some there, reinstalled, which was still an adventure, to no avail. I put the stock setup back on, and tada! all was great again, shift wise.

The thing looked great (I had no issues with the knob) and the ability to grab the shifter up higher and closer was great. It just would not shift right. I will take a closer look at the the oem rod and the ebay version side-by-side again some time and try some more modifications to see if I can make it work right. For now, stock is king. The factory knew what they were doing when they made this part.

The reason @Mako's version works is he used the bottom portion of the oem rod. That's the part that is slightly different on the ebay rod.

Moral of the story - if you want to do this mod, follow @Mako's process, and modify the oem shifter rod. Do NOT buy this:

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5337789113&icep_item=272049079191
:mad:

The good news? I've become an expert at taking off and reinstalling the TC shifter...one thing I learned - if you have the 42RLE, you do not have to remove the transmission shift handle to remove the console front section.

Edit: ebay seller is replacing the rod I got. To be continued...
 
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In the interest of full disclosure, my shifter mod was a dud. What looked to be a quality shift rod was not. It was just slightly different enough from the oem rod that, while I was able (with a lot of effort, and a few choice words) to get it installed, it just would not shift right. Getting the TC into 4hi, 4lo, neutral, and back again into 2hi was a struggle, vague, and didn't go smoothly at all; I could not achieve that definite 'chunk' of the TC going into gear...I took the whole thing apart, more than once, ground down here, bent some there, reinstalled, which was still an adventure, to no avail. I put the stock setup back on, and tada! all was great again, shift wise.

The thing looked great (I had no issues with the knob) and the ability to grab the shifter up higher and closer was great. It just would not shift right. I will take a closer look at the the oem rod and the ebay version side-by-side again some time and try some more modifications to see if I can make it work right. For now, stock is king. The factory knew what they were doing when they made this part.

The reason @Mako's version works is he used the bottom portion of the oem rod. That's the part that is slightly different on the ebay rod.

Moral of the story - if you want to do this mod, follow @Mako's process, and modify the oem shifter rod. Do NOT buy this:

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5337789113&icep_item=272049079191
:mad:

The good news? I've become an expert at taking off and reinstalling the TC shifter...one thing I learned - if you have the 42RLE, you do not have to remove the transmission shift handle to remove the console front section.
Well, that's a bugger. I'm glad I done it the way I did then.
Thanks for the info, might help someone else out.
 
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The Console will remove ok with the original Shift Handle, you have to move it to 4L and the console will lift over it.

The Shifter Knob I used I bought from Ebay, Do a search for -
BLACK W WHITE INLAY TRANSFER CASE SHIFT KNOB FOR JEEP YJ TJ JK GEAR SHIFER.
Seller was - autostars_inc. It came from the US so it will be easier for you guys over there.

The Threaded Insert I used came from China. I did a search for -
Select Size M2 - M18 Stainless Steel Key Locking Lock Thread Repair Insert.
Seller was - dorladream2011
The ebay seller I got the rod from took the one I had back, and is going to send out a replacement. After getting that arranged, I actually contacted autostars_inc on ebay, and told him that I was interested in the shift knob you had, but with a different thread pitch, to match the rod I hope will work right. Even though the shift knob I got was ok, it was a bit small, and I like the size of yours better. He told me to contact SickSpeed directly, and see what they said. Tony @ SickSpeed was very helpful. He found the exact knob like yours, and said they can send it with a 10x1.50 threaded insert. I didn't even have to order that separately, it comes with it. Once everything arrives, I will compare the two knobs, and go with the one that works better. I'm still committed to trying to make this mod work. I really liked how it felt. Hopefully the next shift rod will work right.

Extra bonus - SickSpeed's pricing was better than the ebay pricing...
 
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