Trick for Removing Steering Stabilizer Tapered Bolt

DaveK22

DaveK22

Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2018
Messages
36
Location
Latham, NY
So I ignorantly ignored the many threads on about how to not hit the bolt (as it will mushroom) and to whack the side of the tie-arm to pop the bolt free. Of course I just hit the bolt thinking it'll pop right out....not a chance :(

So after torch heating, banging with heavy hammer and trying everything I could think of doing...it wouldn't budge. Then I found a youtube video with a guy ("Jeep Pickle") showing his "tip" for removal...using a tie-rod removeal tool. IT WORKED GREAT! So I'd thought I share his video and my pics.

PS I would still heat up the bolt as it no doubt still makes it easier to remove.


85072


85078
 
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jeepins said:
My Dad told me years ago never hit a bare bolt like that without the nut on it.. so since i'll loosen the nut and then whack it if need be to prevent the mushrooming.
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That is good advice. However, I can honestly say that that method would not work on this tapered bolt. Or at least on mine anyway. I saw how much pressure it took even with the tie-rod puller AND with torch heat...there was no way I was hitting that bolt out. The nut would have stripped the threads before coming close to moving the bolt.
 
DaveK22 said:
That is good advice. However, I can honestly say that that method would not work on this tapered bolt. Or at least on mine anyway. I saw how much pressure it took even with the tie-rod puller AND with torch heat...there was no way I was hitting that bolt out. The nut would have stripped the threads before coming close to moving the bolt.
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I believe you! Just makes me think of that when I hear about stubborn suspension bolts.
 
When I pulled mine I tried whacking the hell out of it (not the threads) to no avail. I tried a pitman arm press,,, nope! Air chisel with a hammer bit, torch heating the heck out of the rod, wax quenching the taper bolt and hammering the sh333T out of it till it conformed to my will! No I was not able to save the taper bolt but at that point I REALLY could not have cared! I ended up cutting it flush with the rod and using the air chisel with a punch bit to hammer it into submission!
 
I've used the puller with good success on several different jobs. When the puller is loaded up with force spray some penetrating oil on the tapered bolt junction, let sit and then hit with small maul. That usually pops it loose. When re-installing new one, coat with Never Seize.
 
I used this from Advance Auto Parts. Quick and easy. Also used it on the sway bars links, where they attach to the sway bar.

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Yes all of those tools work on a lot of jobs making them a piece of pie and I always recommend starting with the "least damaging" tool. Buttt some times they don't, Then its, keep trying till you succeed! Anti-seize is a good call especially with the crap we tend to put our jeeps through. Rust is one hell of an adhesive! hahaha
 
TH99TJ said:
Yes all of those tools work on a lot of jobs making them a piece of pie and I always recommend starting with the "least damaging" tool. Buttt some times they don't, Then its, keep trying till you succeed! Anti-seize is a good call especially with the crap we tend to put our jeeps through. Rust is one hell of an adhesive! hahaha
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It is a common practice for me to use Never Seize on any fastener I take apart on a Jeep including cleaning the threads with a wire brush.
 
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Although I don’t live in the rust belt, I do too because of all the problems I’ve seen others have.
 
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So, funny story...

I had issues with getting that tapered stud off when I was doing a suspension overhaul. So I disconnected the steering stabilizer from the drag link, and removed the drag link so that I could get it up in a bench vise. I put a puller on that stud, but never though to put the castle nut back on before I did it. I tightened it down as much as I dared, and gave it a strike with a 3lb sledge.

And it came off. Violently. Through the air. And embedded itself halfway into the drywall on the nearby wall of the garage.

At least I had the presence of mind not to stand in front of it.

Anyway, the hole it made was an almost perfectly clean circle, so patching it was pretty simple, and I learned never to do that again without putting the nut on beforehand to catch it when it inevitably comes loose.
 
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That bolt is a big pain. I soaked the tie rod bolts with liquid wrench over night and the castle nut stripped the threads. I had to cut out the castle nut and the fight the damn bolt. I finally got it out after bang it, tie rod tool and pickle.

Now I’m trying to figure out where to source the steering damper bolt. Dealer? Anywhere online? My new steering damper shock does not include a new bolt.

Thanks.

JP
 
guayo42 said:
That bolt is a big pain. I soaked the tie rod bolts with liquid wrench over night and the castle nut stripped the threads. I had to cut out the castle nut and the fight the damn bolt. I finally got it out after bang it, tie rod tool and pickle.

Now I’m trying to figure out where to source the steering damper bolt. Dealer? Anywhere online? My new steering damper shock does not include a new bolt.

Thanks.

JP
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My fox stabilizer came with a new one, not sure if u could order just one of those from them or not
 
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