Trying to decide on wheel and tire combo as part of new build
- Thread starter KYJeep11
- Start date
So should a person get the cable shifter if no body lift is currently planned? Will it have enough clearance at stock body height?
Is there a problem with the shifter at the stock body height? A cable shifter will certainly work and the shifts ought to feel a bit smoother and more defined. Most who switch to a cable shifter are doing to as a part of raising the transfer case where there is less room than stock for the factory linkage.
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If your shifts are fine now, no. As previously stated cables are usually installed after a body lift and/or flat skid or if the OEM contraption isn't working properly.
Rubicons dont have a slip yoke to eliminate, TT or stock have no effect on that they simply never had one to begin with.
To add, the Rubi drive shaft is short to begin with. Depending on the extent of the lift or tuck, it will need to be changed to a double cardan sooner than other TJs might require. This brings with it adjustable control arms.
Thanks to the information on this forum, I already purchased Tom Woods double cardan rear driveshaft (and a front one too, just because). Also purchased the top level Currie 4" kit with double adjustable control arms. Only thing left to do right now is to figure out the best route to take on building up the stock Dana44's to handle 35's.
Anyone have specific details on exactly what should be done? The shop is recommending "Dry Ice" sleeves, Artec trussing, Yukon gears, and a 30 spline chromoly shaft? Does this sound like the right approach?
Sleeves and trussing aren't required. Members here have been running 35s on a Dana 30 and Dana 44 for over a decade with no problems.
gears: Revolution 4.88s or 5.13s
front: Revolution USA made 4340 shafts with the big joint
rear: Revolution USA made 4140 shafts
Did they help you order the right length driveshaft? The length will change a little if you go from a OEM skid location to a tummy tuck I'm told. My shafts set up for OEM mount.
I'm not sure how that's going to work. They're the ones ordering it, but I'm running the OEM skid for the time being and then getting a tummy tuck later (Savvy's TT is on backorder right now). I certainly hope that getting a TT done later won't require an entirely new driveshaft, differentfrom the Tom Woods one I just ordered to accommodate my 4" lift. That's the first time I've heard it mentioned...
The higher the lift relative to the t case and axles and the greater the travel the longer the shafts need to be.
Did you give them any kind of measurement between yokes?
No, they said they'd take measurements once it was in their shop. Sales guy tried to convince me that it didn't really matter though.
How can it not matter? If you change the height of the transfer case output then you change the distance from the rear axle. The question I guess is does it change it too much.