TSB # 21-003-04: Leaking NV241 transfer case on TJ Rubicon models

Chris

Chris

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TSB #: 21-003-04
GROUP: Transmission
DATE: March 09, 2004


SUBJECT:
NV-241 Transfer Case Fluid Seepage From Area Of Rear Output Shaft Retainer


OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves the replacement of the NV-241 transfer case rear output
shaft retainer/extension housing and related seals.


MODELS:
2003 - 2004 (TJ) Wrangler
NOTE: This bulletin applies to Rubicon vehicles equipped with a NV-241 transfer
case (sales code DHW) and built prior to March 01, 2004 (MDH 0201XX).


SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
The customer may notice fluid seepage (ATF+4) coming from the NV-241 transfer
case. Upon closer inspection the fluid seepage may be coming from the rear output
shaft retainer/extension area. The cause of the seepage may be the interface
between the rear output shaft seal to the rear retainer/extension.


DIAGNOSIS:
If fluid seepage is present between the rear output shaft seal and the rear
retainer perform the Repair Procedure.


PARTS REQUIRED:
  • 05093606AA (1)
    Retainer, t/case rear (includes rear output shaft seal)
  • 04210973 (1)https://wranglertjforum.com/tel:04210973
    Washer, t/case rear output shaft sealing
  • 05093612AA (1)
    Seal, vehicle speed sensor
  • 04167924 (1)
    Nut, t/case rear flange
  • 05093605AA (1)
    Sleeve, rear flange wear (seal slinger)
  • 04883971 (1)
    RTV, Engine Sealant
  • 05013457AA (3)
    Fluid, transmission/transfer case (ATF+4)

SPECIAL TOOLS/EQUIPMENT REQUIRED:
  • 6719A (Holder, Flange)
  • 8992 (Puller, Flange)

REPAIR PROCEDURE:
NOTE: Prior to dissassembly, both the rear propshaft-to-rear companion flange connection and the rear companion flange-to-rear output shaft connection must be marked (indexed) for assembly reference to prevent possible driveline vibration after assembly.
  1. Partially raise and support the vehicle.
  2. Shift the transfer case to its Neutral position. Raise vehicle.
  3. 3. Remove the skid plate.
  4. Support the transmission.
  5. Remove the crossmember supporting the transfer case.
  6. Drain the tranfer case fluid. Install drain plug.
  7. Mark (index) the rear propshaft to the transfer case rear flange for assembly reference.
  8. Disconnect the rear propshaft from the transfer case rear flange. Move the propshaft out of the way and support properly.
  9. Using special tool - Holder 6719, remove the rear companion flange nut.
  10. Remove the rubber sealing washer.
  11. Mark the transfer case rear companion flange-to-rear output shaft connection for assembly reference.
  12. Remove the rear companion flange from the output shaft.
    NOTE:     The companion flange is a taper fit onto the output shaft. It may be
    necessary to use Puller 8992 to remove the companion flange.
  13. Remove the vehicle speed sensor bolt.
  14. Remove the vehicle speed sensor from the retainer/extension housing.
  15. Remove the rear retainer/extension housing. Tap the retainer/extension housing once or twice with a plastic mallet to break the sealer bead.
  16. Carefully remove the speed sensor tone wheel and metal indexing (dowel) pin.
  17. Clean the mating surface of the transfer case housing of old sealer and oil residue. Clean the retainer/extension housing mating surface.
  18. Apply a bead of RTV to the mating surface of the rear case. Keep sealer bead width to a maximum of 3/16 inch. Do not use an excessive amount of sealer
    as excess will be displaced into the case interior.
  19. Rotate the output shaft so that the hole in the output shaft for the speed sensor tone wheel metal index pin is facing up (12 o’clock position). This will prevent the index pin
    from falling out during installation of the tone wheel and rear companion flange.
  20. To hold the index pin in place, apply a small amount of grease to the pin. Install
    the tone wheel index pin to the output shaft hole.
  21. Install the speed sensor tone wheel. Verify that the pin is in the 12 o’clock position.
    Verify that the tone wheel covers the index pin and is fully seated to the output shaft.
  22. Without rotating the rear output shaft, install the rear retainer/extension
    housing to the transfer case. Apply RTV to the attaching bolts. Tighten
    the attaching bolts to 16-25 Nm (12-18 ft. lbs.)
  23. Clean the wear sleeve (seal slinger) on the rear companion flange. The wear
    sleeve surface must not be scratched. Replace the wear sleeve if cleaning is not
    possible. To remove the wear sleeve use a suitable cold chisel to strike the slinger
    hub parallel to the centerline in several places to expand the wear sleeve. A new
    sleeve can be driven onto the flange hub using a suitable pipe tool.
  24. Install a new seal to the vehicle speed sensor.
  25. Install the vehicle speed sensor to the retainer/extension housing. Tighten
    the attaching bolts to 11-16 Nm (8-12 ft. lbs.).
  26. Install the output shaft sealing washer. Verify that the sealing washer is fully seated
    against the output shaft face prior to installing the rear companion flange.
  27. Note the index marks made earlier on the output shaft and rear companion flange.
    The mark on the shaft may need to be transferred to the sealing washer.
  28. Make sure the speed sensor tone wheel is fully seated.
  29. Align the rear companion flange and output shaft index marks and install the rear companion flange to the output shaft.
  30. Hand install the rear companion flange nut.
  31. Using Holder 6719, tighten the rear companion flange nut to 122-176 Nm (90-130 ft. lbs.).
  32. Align the propshaft index mark to the rear companion flange. Install the propshaft to flange attaching bolts. Tighten attaching bolts to 115 Nm (85 ft. lbs.).
  33. Fill the transfer case with fluid.
  34. Install crossmember.
  35. Lower vehicle.
  36. Shift transfer case into 4HI position.
 
@Bud125 turned me onto this TSB when I was digging for information on replacing the Rear output seal on my 241OR transfer case. Mine has been leaking for a while, but not bad enough to leave drips on the floor. I tried looking for the parts to satisfy the work to the TSB and found out that Mopar no longer offers the rear extension that is specified in the TSB ( 05093606AA ). Doing some more reseach, I found a thread on Jeep Forum that showed some pictures of what the new extension looked like. The basically cut a slot to let fluid back into the case fro the extension.

Here are the pictures from the thread I found.

https://bit.ly/3kYmEaS
First, I started by tearing the thing apart. It came apart pretty easily, but watch out for the bolt that holds the VSS on. Its Torx (of course) of the T30 variety. M6-1.0 thread. MAKE SURE you dig the dirt out of the socket before trying to remove. Get a good wrench, put lots of downward pressure on, and pray you don't strip the head. If you do, you're gonna have to pull the case out. The way that Torx bolt comes through the extension, its blocking one of the bolts that holds the extension on (thanks, Chrysler). Thankfully, mine came out.

1597522036059.png

Circled is the approximate area where there is interference from the VSS bolt and the extension bolt.
1597522108818.png


Pulling the yoke was pretty easy. Used a steering wheel puller and it popped right off. Not tight at all. I was expecting to fight it like a small engine flywheel (which can hold on SUPER tight), but no. Remove the nut (its an 1 1/4 socket) then put it back on. Run a couple 7/16- 14 bolts into the flange and put the forcing screw on the output shaft.

Now everything is clear, give the extension a tap with a deadblow and it should come free easily. Once the extension is off, pull the tone ring and watch for the little drive pin. Its only about 3/8" long and probably about an 1/8" in diameter.

All the big parts.

1597522393162.png


To do the repair, You'll need the new seal, Probably the dust cover (wear ring), a sealing washer, and since you're ordering parts, a new nut for the yoke. Total cost for me was about 30 bucks. Note, I didn't get the washer. It didn't say anything about it being a seal...so I just assumed it was a spacer of some sort. No, its a rubber washer with the spline pattern cut into it. It seals the ID of the shaft to the OD of the Yoke. If I have a leak, its going to be there.

The washer in question....
1597539775369.png


Part numbers for the rest of the stuff.

1597539832260.png


Now, the reason for the TSB. Once I got the extension housing off, I immediately realized what they did to fix it, and why. There is a solid ring around the whole inner diameter of the housing. When oil comes out the bearing, it gets trapped below the "dam" and eventually, will leak out the seal. Also, notice the dirt...Not sure if the seal went bad and let the dirt it, or if the dirt got in there and ruined the seal. Probably the former...My poor Rubi has 146000 miles on her.

1597539911987.png


If you follow the link to jeep forum, you'll see a picture of the fix. I'll post it here too, just because I'm a nice guy...

1597540038852.png




The jeep forum pictures are great because they show what Chrysler did to fix the problem. Basically, they cut the dam down so fluid could drain back into the T-case. However, there really isn't a reference to where the slot is cut. I read reference to "about 4 O'Clock." So, I started looking at the back of the case and noticed there are slots where oil can return.

1597521752198.png


So, I held the extension up to the T-case, and noticed that one of those cuts lined up with one of the ribs. So, I cut a slot there. By the way, its at about the 4 o'clock position, if you have the extension housing installed.

Here is my answer to the NLA part. I used a round file and just filed a groove into the dam. It was super easy (aluminum cuts like butta). Took me about 5 minutes.

1597540357097.png


1597540377790.png


Once that is done, reassemble. Honestly, the hardest part of the whole job was replacing the "wear ring" or dust cover that is pressed on the Yoke. It was a pain to get off. Couple other pieces of advice. Put the transmission and t-case in neutral, and rotate the output shaft so the drive pin is at 12 O'Clock when you re-install the tone ring. The other gotcha is using a small bead of RTV to re-seal the extension housing to the T-Case back half. The manual calls for 3/16" bead. I put the RTV around the screw perimeter, away from the fluid return passages. I also gave the screw threads a little shot of RTV. Finally, I installed an M6-1.0 bolt to replace that Stupid Torx. It uses an 10mm socket, just like the extension housing bolts, so that nice.

Hit me up with any questions.
 
Great job! And yes I have questions! Did you make your own sealing washer?, what material did you use? That part is no longer available as well. Did you make your own holding tool to remove the 1 1/4” nut?
Thanks for posting this.
 
The sealing washer I'm referring to is called the yoke washer. Its part number 31 in the picture below. Wermopar has it for less than 3 bucks. I'll probably order one up locally, just to have it on hand. I'm not convinced mine is going to hold. I used some RTV to help seal mine up. I gave it a full 24 hours to cure. If you're talking about the VSS gasket (part 28), that is just an O-ring. Mine was in good shape, so I re-used it.

1597583135397.png


As far as a holding tool, I threaded a couple 2" long, 7/16-14 bolts into the yoke and used a prybar to hold the yoke from spinning. Put the prybar against the threads and the heads will keep it from slipping out. I was able to torque it easily that way. Well, not easily...spec is 90-130 ft-lbs (I went to 120) and its tough to get that kind of leverage on you back under the vehicle, but I didn't have issues with the yoke spinning! LOL
 
Well that cleared things up, thanks. Yes I was referring to the VSS seal, I was going by the TSB and my local dealer and the internet said it was no longer available. But seeing how it is just an O ring I will take my chances, maybe mine will e in OK condition as well. I am still waiting on parts from my dealer and just ordered the yoke washer.
Thanks again for all this, that is what makes this such a great forum, knowledgeable people willing to share.
 
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I finally have the parts together to do this. Could a regular gear puller be used to remove the yoke or do you recommend the steering wheel puller?
By the way how is your repair holding up? I did get a couple of the sealing washers so hopefully this repair will go smoothly.
 
So I completed this repair over the week-end and had basically the same experience as Mike. My extension housing came off a bit harder and a gear puller worked fine to pull the yoke. I did replace the yoke washer as well. I have taken it on a couple of test runs and it has stayed dry as a bone. I have a pretty long trip coming up next week so that will be the real test.
A big shout out to @Mike_H for posting his guide on this, it was a huge help. The one thing that surprises me is that this problem is not more wide spread, maybe people are jus ignoring it haha!
 
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Bud125 said:
I finally have the parts together to do this. Could a regular gear puller be used to remove the yoke or do you recommend the steering wheel puller?
By the way how is your repair holding up? I did get a couple of the sealing washers so hopefully this repair will go smoothly.
Click to expand...
Mine is staying dry, so far. I had to get a wheel puller. My 3 jaw wouldn't do it. Sounds like you got yours just fine though.
 
I am trying to acquire parts for this job as my 241 is leaking out the rear output shaft. I am having a hard time finding part number
  • 05093612AA (1)
    Seal, vehicle speed sensor
as well as the part number
  • 05093606AA (1)
    Retainer, t/case rear (includes rear output shaft seal)
I see you modified the retainer on the tcase and I will follow that process. Did you include the part number you used for the output shaft seal?
Any help would be much appreciated.
 
I think i figured the last part out, 05013019AA is the seal included in the retainer not made anymore I'm guessing. It doesnt look like you had to get 05093612AA based off your post. if that is just the seal for the speed sensor, I am going to just rtv it.

I have issues there as well. My speedometer doesnt not work, so I need to check on what's going on there anyway.
 
JoeUtley said:
I think i figured the last part out, 05013019AA is the seal included in the retainer not made anymore I'm guessing. It doesnt look like you had to get 05093612AA based off your post. if that is just the seal for the speed sensor, I am going to just rtv it.

I have issues there as well. My speedometer doesnt not work, so I need to check on what's going on there anyway.
Click to expand...
Not sure who you're asking the questions to. The VSS "gasket" is really just an o ring. Mine was in good shape, so I just re-used it.

The only thing I didn't get, but should have, is the yoke nut seal. It's called a washer in the parts manual. Still available, and it's inexpensive. I don't have the part number handy, but I think it's posted above.
 
I was able to get all the needed parts, except the extension from my local dealer and then bought 2 more yoke nut seals from Wermopar just to have on hand. Follow Mike's write up and it is not that bad of a job. Mine is still leak free after a couple of months and multiple wheeling trips.
 
I'm going to start this project next weekend along with others. Planning on driving to the TJ Fest next spring which will be about 5000 mile trip. Thanks for all the info and tips.
 
I don't understand why the speed tune ring needs to come off. I don't see any seals beyond it. Am I missing something? Everything came off with removing the tune ring.
 
I believe you are correct, I didn't remove mine either. I worried at the time if I should but it all worked fine upon reassembly.
 
I used Permatex High Temp ( red ) but pretty much because it is what I had on hand.
 
My Rubi just started puking fluid about 3 weeks ago and took forever to stumble upon this forum post. I must say, you men are doing God’s work showing how to fix this. I was worried I wouldn’t find a fix. Just ordered the parts and will come back if I have any questions. Thanks!
 
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