Tub crack above body mount
- Thread starter starkey480
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- tub crack
OP
Interesting I will look into that as well! I’m thinking either way that replacement mount is probably the way to go. I don’t think a patch will work well upon thinking about it more.
I have 2 patched on my YJ that have held for 10 years, yours is corrosion induced, cut it open, treat the corrosion and then patch...
OP
Did you patch with something like the Safe-T-Cap? Also in this case is it crucial to patch with a piece that wraps around the bottom or could I just cut out the corroded crack and patch with flat piece?
Just had it done and had them replace all 3 center mounts while they were at it. Cost was $500 including parts and labor and looks solid as can be.
OP
All three in just one side or both sides? Not bad price for professional job at all.
Was $500 for just the 3 on one side. The Safe-T-cap part was $200, install was $300. Honestly looks more secure than the original tub mounts.
I just cut some sheetmetal and welded it on to the cracked out portion of the tub. I have a lot of fabrication tools, more than I know how to use. Or at least be proficient with.
OP
https://www.rustrepairpatch.com/sto..._-_includes_dimple_for_jeep_tj_1997-2006.html
Here’s middle mount both sides for $99! Seems like a pretty good deal! Plus my friend who welds professionally is willing to help
Here’s middle mount both sides for $99! Seems like a pretty good deal! Plus my friend who welds professionally is willing to help
I had the same thing on both middle mounts, so I bought the longer repair channels but trimmed them down a bit before I installed them. I would bet that the captive nut on that cracked area is in pretty rough shape, but the new channels come with a much better fully welded nut.
OP
If I want rock sliders in the future and I put just the middle mount in will that cause the sliders to sit poorly on the torque box since that middle part will stick out more?
Because I used a cap for only the middle mount, I ended up cutting about 3/8" off of the body bushing so as not to create a high spot in the middle.
I replaced (3) of them on my Jeep recently. Try Pocono Metal, they are a little cheaper than autorust, and actually one piece of bent sheet metal.
I just ordered the Safe T Cap version, though I looked into the Pocono Metal Craft versions, first. While I much prefer the stamped recess area of the PMC parts, they only do the individual sections. The Safe T Cap recesses are welded (not a good looking part, IMHO), but came in the 2/3 length torque box repair section (2 of the 3 mount locations) that I needed, which will make for a cleaner looking repair, I believe. They also have the full length torque box sections, as well, should someone need that. With delivery, the two 2/3 sections were $338, as I recall. Just some food for thought.
OP
Quick update I took it to my welder friend and apparently it’s only the thin outer layer of metal that’s cracked on the outside. It’s not cracked all the way through and he said the metal on the inside is still pretty good. The outside cracked because it started to warp a little. He thinks he can do some kind of patch or reinforcement on it that won’t crack again. I forget what he called it but will report back how it goes.
OP
I wonder why both TIG then stick on some not real thick metal. Maybe he just calls the rod a stick.
Whatever, I hope he gets you back where you want to be, in a Jeep with no cracks.
That is rot from the inside, my guess is that if you poke at it with a screw driver, it will go right through...
It seems to me that cracked more from corrosion weakening the metal than stress. Tho both are involved. If your buddy can fix it, then great. Just deal with the rust first, or you will be back.