Tummy tuck dilemma

Jaime313

TJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2018
Messages
204
Location
Los angeles, Ca
Decisions, decisions, so I'll take it to the forum. I have a 2004 LJ Non Rubicon with a 3.25" Rough Country lift, Savvy Front Upper and Lower control arms, Currie Steering, JKS tracbar and disconnects sitting on 35's. I'm also using MetalCloak Fenders to accommodate the tires. It's ridden rough since I lifted 4 years ago, but I figured it's a Jeep. But it has also been even harder handling after the Grizzly Locker was put in the rear over the weekend. I've planned on better shocks for the last year when I started using it more.

Dilemma, I wanted the Tummy Tuck before I went to 35's but never liked Body Lifts. I've read about the added benefits but never liked the look or ride in my past trucks. And then I came across an opportunity and picked up a good condition Teraflex Belly up Skid, Oil pan Skid, Transmission skid and Currie 1"MML. However, I'm at a cross roads. I'm really leaning towards changing my shocks out to Ranchos but don't know which model and then getting a 1" aluminum bar to lower the belly pan and avoid the BL and MML. I know I'll lose 1" ground clearance but will gain real armor in the process and will hopefully dodge any other issues with a true TT. I don't have an SYE or DC driveshaft so I'm concerned about that added expense.
$$$ Cost minimal for just the Aluminum I hope but then I don't know if the SYE/DC driveshaft would be something I'd have to buy with the TC going up. I think it may still go up 3/4" even with the 1" drop down I want to use.

Or go 2-2.5" Springs (probably OME) Rancho Shocks and probably buying a complete 1"BL and using the Currie MML . $$$ Cost probably a $1k. Any weight would be appreciated, especially from LJ owners. Thank you @Jerry Bransford
 
From what I understand, there are several ways to do a TT without a BL.

For example, UCF makes 3 depths of skid plates.
The “no body lift” skid is slightly higher than the stock skid, but requires no mods.
The “original extra clearance” is 1.5 inch shallower than stock and can be installed with no body lift using a lowered transmission mount or by clearancing the tub.
The ultra-high clearance skid, which is the same as most TT skids, requires both the lowered transmission mount and significant clearancing to install.

So I would believe it is possible to install your skid without a BL; it would just take a few extra parts and some hammer work. Or you could buy spacers for $100 or make your own for less.

If you do add the BL you could probably drop an inch of bumpstop extensions to gain an extra inch of uptravel if your shocks and other components allow. This could result in better ride quality.

There are ways to hide the body lift gaps. Rear bumpers like Rock Hard 4x4s tire carrier can actually be mounted an inch higher to hide the gap and gain departure angle. A winch in front would hide any gap there. I’ve seen wheel well gap guards but I’ve never really looked into them.
 
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The higher the tuck, the more room is needed to clear the body. A body lift just makes getting that clearance easier.

If a raised belly is a real future for the Jeep, then just do it and do it correctly. Everything needed to raise the skid is also needed to effectively run 35s. Both require the pinions to be adjusted. Both are going to effect the shock lengths in some way, either through more required bump stop extension or by changing the distance between shock mounts after the pinion change.
 
From what I understand, there are several ways to do a TT without a BL.

For example, UCF makes 3 depths of skid plates.
The “no body lift” skid is slightly higher than the stock skid, but requires no mods.
The “original extra clearance” is 1.5 inch shallower than stock and can be installed with no body lift using a lowered transmission mount or by clearancing the tub.
The ultra-high clearance skid, which is the same as most TT skids, requires both the lowered transmission mount and significant clearancing to install.

So I would believe it is possible to install your skid without a BL; it would just take a few extra parts and some hammer work. Or you could buy spacers for $100 or make your own for less.

If you do add the BL you could probably drop an inch of bumpstop extensions to gain an extra inch of uptravel if your shocks and other components allow. This could result in better ride quality.

There are ways to hide the body lift gaps. Rear bumpers like Rock Hard 4x4s tire carrier can actually be mounted an inch higher to hide the gap and gain departure angle. A which in front would hide any gap there. I’ve seen wheel well gap guards but I’ve never really looked into them.

Thank you very much for the input! More stuff to think about. I have about a week to decide which direction to go in.
 
Thank you very much for the input! More stuff to think about. I have about a week to decide which direction to go in.
My personal preference would be to simply install the BL and keep your current lift height. Not only can you do the TT, but it also allows other things like a MML (recommended with a BL) to maintain driveline angles and protect the oil pan better, a gas tank tuck to gain departure angle, or even an extended range tank like the GenRight 30 gallon tank.
 
The higher the tuck, the more room is needed to clear the body. A body lift just makes getting that clearance easier.

If a raised belly is a real future for the Jeep, then just do it and do it correctly. Everything needed to raise the skid is also needed to effectively run 35s. Both require the pinions to be adjusted. Both are going to effect the shock lengths in some way, either through more required bump stop extension or by changing the distance between shock mounts after the pinion change.

I had my gears done over the weekend and the installer mentioned my pionion needing to be adjustment. I’m going to see a friends friend next week to look at my suspension and set up. These projects all kind of just happened at once on accident.
 
I had my gears done over the weekend and the installer mentioned my pionion needing to be adjustment. I’m going to see a friends friend next week to look at my suspension and set up. These projects all kind of just happened at once on accident.
If you have a stock driveshaft, the pinion axis should be parallel to the axis of the TC output. A CV or double cardan shaft would require rotating the pinion angle to almost match the driveshaft. Tom Wood’s driveshaft has a really good write-up on correct pinion angles:
http://www.4xshaft.com/
 
Stop fretting over a 1" body lift. Put it on, install the belly-up skids, and never look back. I was apprehensive at first as well about the body lift, but I ended up doing it when installing my tummy tuck, and I don't regret it.

It's just one of those things you have to get over.

Also, just to put it out there, body lifts have no affect whatsoever over ride quality.
 
.... These projects all kind of just happened at once on accident.

I've been there. Certain projects open up a can of worms which knock over all the dominoes. Raising the skid is one of those projects that has wide ranging ramifications. But once sorted out, is one of the nicer improvements one can make.
 
Stop fretting over a 1" body lift. Put it on, install the belly-up skids, and never look back. I was apprehensive at first as well about the body lift, but I ended up doing it when installing my tummy tuck, and I don't regret it.

It's just one of those things you have to get over.

Also, just to put it out there, body lifts have no affect whatsoever over ride quality.
X2. A small body lift is a non issue and the benefits can be quite significant if you make use of the added room.
 
Leave the Jeep alone for now. 😲Save $ for an SYE, rear driveshaft, adj arms, track bar bracket, cable shifter, and the highest clearance tummy tuck you can find. Bite the bullet and do it right. Do the 1" BL. On a jeep its nothing. Do it all once. And done.
Going the route your going with litte mod after little higher mod, then a little higher and better, is more exensive in the long run. And you'll end up with used springs, shocks. T case drops and everything else rotting away in your garage like most of us have.
 
A small BL opens up many possibilities, including a gas tank tuck. I gained 1.25” of free clearance. Well, $2.22 for the bolts I used.

Before
83744

After
83743
 
Thank you all for the feedback, and I just found another damn expense. My JKS Trackbar is only up to 3.5" lift. I remember when I bought it because I didn't want to go higher and prefer the LCG. And it's only a few months old. That would lead me to getting a 2-2.5" SL lift and 1-1.25" BL, then the SYE. I know the benefits so I may just wait on it. But it's tough to see all that armor just sitting there. @Chris The body lifts I've used were in the 90's on Toyota's and Nissan before PreRunner was a badge on 2WD trucks. The ride was noticeably different, the cab sounded like it became a drum and I hated seeing the spacers between the bed and the frame. I'm going to look at my Driveshaft again. I know the LJ is supposed to have more forgiveness for the angles, I just don't know much.

@jjvw This is how it all happened, long story and I'm sure some of you can relate. I was on 33s and wanted to replicate my (Humvee) HMMWV. So reading in here decided to try and do it right. But then I found some 35's on Craigslist looking for LJ stuff for $500. So in the shed they go. As I was driving to get a gear quote from Brothers 4X4 I got the death wobble. I thought my wheel lost all but one lug nut, but nope it was the wobble. So I replaced everything for the 35's to come, Trackbar, Front CA's, Currie Steering, ball joints and discos for good measure. Then black friday hit and I bought Metalcloak front fenders for a mere $725 (sarcasm) and a frameless Rampage fastback top. FYI, the Rampage is way louder than the factory top, don't recommend it. So another day on CL I found a Genright drop down tire carrier for $200, I had to get it and on my drive home picked up Poison Spyder Rocker rails new for $300 which I thought were sold but the guy called me back while I was driving . But they didn't fit with Metalcoak Front fenders without some trimming of them, so I went back on CL. I may write that up somewhere else for people that are trying to piece together armor. I finally decide on who's gonna do my gears and which ones to use thanks to @Jerry Bransford and you guys. And theres more, decided to spend some tax return money and spent another $1k on MetalCloak Rocker rails and rear fenders which are PITA to install. Rails will be done over the weekend. Now 2 weeks ago a guy with an LJ that sold me his front bumper sends me a link to all the Teraflex skids and BL/MML. Like I said earlier, I wanted the TT before 35's. It was a smokin deal and I had to get it. So now theres at least $2k in my garage of really cool parts and all these great deals are adding up like crazy. And that's been the last 4 months of this LJ owner lol. Thanks again for the feedback guys.
 
You said you have a 3.25" lift. Were you planning on getting taller springs (sorry if you already answered that)?
No, at least not a suspension lift. But I’m considering a 1 inch body lift and didn’t know if that would have an impact on the track bar