Tummy tuck without body lift (modifying the tunnel)

Chris

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Has anyone out there done a tummy tuck by modifying the transmission tunnel? It seems that it wouldn't be that hard to do (I'm probably wrong) by cutting the tunnel off and then adding some height to it, re-welding it, and putting everything back together. If you did this, wouldn't you be able to fully tuck the transfer case, have a completely flat skid plate (like the JK does), and no longer need a body lift?

I'm just curious, since this seems like a decent idea. Am I wrong?

Yes, I know it's a bigger project than a body lift, but someone must have done it. This is one thing I like on the JKs, is that they come from the factory with a flat transfer case skid plate.
 
When I was researching mint here were quite a few that said you can do it just by pounding a few spots up with a hammer. I did not fancy that idea. I tried to put it on without first, and was able to get it together, but the transfer case was literally against the floorboards. HOT, and loud is all I can say! If you have the skills to modify the tunnel, I am sure you could do it. I just don’t have those skills, or a welder!


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Has anyone out there done a tummy tuck by modifying the transmission tunnel? It seems that it wouldn't be that hard to do (I'm probably wrong) by cutting the tunnel off and then adding some height to it, re-welding it, and putting everything back together. If you did this, wouldn't you be able to fully tuck the transfer case, have a completely flat skid plate (like the JK does), and no longer need a body lift?

I'm just curious, since this seems like a decent idea. Am I wrong?

Yes, I know it's a bigger project than a body lift, but someone must have done it. This is one thing I like on the JKs, is that they come from the factory with a flat transfer case skid plate.
Isn’t this what LoPro is from UCF?
 
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Isn’t this what LoPro is from UCF?
If you read the install directions from UCF on all their applicable bits, you still need to do a little body and fender work on the tunnel to make it all fit without a body lift. At least for their flat(ish) skid. The LoPro mount is known to transmit a lot of vibrations as well. That's kind of where I'm headed, in aluminum. But I decided to go with a 1" BL. It gives me a chance to tuck the gas tank as well. Every little bit helps.
 
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a tummy tuck by modifying the transmission tunnel
YES ! Exactly what AEV did with the highline fenders. They cut the tops off, added 3" of steel, 2" lift plus overlap.
So, yes, I've wanted to do that if I could pull my TJR off the road for a month or two. A 2" motor mount lift and a 2" tunnel "highline"..... and keep it going to a 4" rear deck lift to fit a 35gallon gas tank too.
 
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Right now with the AEV HighLine I run 33s on stock steel15x7 spokers and a stock Rubi suspension, no lift.
Next mod will be to trim the 6" AEV flares down to 3".
DSC_0035.jpg
 
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YES ! Exactly what AEV did with the highline fenders. They cut the tops off, added 3" of steel, 2" lift plus overlap.
So, yes, I've wanted to do that if I could pull my TJR off the road for a month or two. A 2" motor mount lift and a 2" tunnel "highline"..... and keep it going to a 4" rear deck lift to fit a 35gallon gas tank too.

See, that's what I want to do as well. Add enough extra height to the tunnel that the transfer case can tuck up under there without the need for a body lift (I don't like the look of the body and frame gap that comes from a body lift). I know it would involve some work, but I would have to imagine that the end result would be pretty cool.
 
Years ago 4wd? Had Top Truck Challenge? And some guy entered a 1960s Bronco. Very little lift, lots of HighLine etc. It was incredible. Ted Nugent had an '80s Bronco, he cut off the fenders to a HighLine concept. Same thing. Vehicles which just stuck in my mind. Back to Grade 8? and the Ford F100 4x4 looked low rider. I loved it and the '69 GT350 the same day.

I'm not a fan of lift, lift, lift. I like practical performance more. And in North America that means lots of highway miles too.
 
Right now with the AEV HighLine I run 33s on stock steel15x7 spokers and a stock Rubi suspension, no lift.
Next mod will be to trim the 6" AEV flares down to 3".
View attachment 23921
Any interest in just trading your 6” flares for my stock 3 3/4”? They’re in great shape. Or wait, you’re in Canada, right?
 
See, that's what I want to do as well. Add enough extra height to the tunnel that the transfer case can tuck up under there without the need for a body lift (I don't like the look of the body and frame gap that comes from a body lift). I know it would involve some work, but I would have to imagine that the end result would be pretty cool.
There are diminishing returns and then there are "holy crap, those are so far away I can barely even see them" returns. That is a phenomenal amount of work just to get rid of a small body lift. And, I've not yet seen mentioned what you plan to do under the hood to bring the motor up, deal with the fan shroud, etc. The radiator can NOT move up at all. There is already a dimple in the front of the hood brace for clearance on the radiator cap.

I have contemplated what it would take to raise the tunnel but only to drop the body to build a low rider TJ. I finally figured out the suspension, just a bit left to do on the steering and it looks like a custom radiator is going to have to be built and that isn't cheap.
 
The low pro mounts place the transfer case right up against the tunnel, which is loud and hot from what I hear.

Clearly there’s a lot more to this than I thought, as@mrblaine pointed out. I didn’t think about raising the engine, custom radiators, etc.

Makes me wonder why the Jeep engineers didn’t make the skid plate flat from the factory, much like the JK?
 
Any interest in just trading your 6” flares for my stock 3 3/4”? They’re in great shape. Or wait, you’re in Canada, right?
His flares would not work for you, they are cut in a unique manner to accomodate the gas cap, mounts, & grill curvature. They are mount differently and require a trimmed hood. AEV flares are worth apprx $1.5k-2k at this moment if none of them are cracked.
887B5F71-D8B0-4A25-A202-DB729C64434B.jpeg
D6B027CB-9DAE-4F73-A3AD-A2EE8AE7B091.jpeg
 
The low pro mounts place the transfer case right up against the tunnel, which is loud and hot from what I hear.

Clearly there’s a lot more to this than I thought, as @mrblaine pointed out. I didn’t think about raising the engine, custom radiators, etc.

Makes me wonder why the Jeep engineers didn’t make the skid plate flat from the factory, much like the JK?
Brown Dog has been making a 2"MML for awhile. I looked into it and checked the engine for clearance as they suggested. Mine would work but it's really a special application.

http://browndogindustries.com/CU288...Cylinder-2-Inch-Motor-Mount-Lifts-Rubber.aspx
 
Brown Dog has been making a 2"MML for awhile. I looked into it and checked the engine for clearance as they suggested. Mine would work but it's really a special application.

http://browndogindustries.com/CU288...Cylinder-2-Inch-Motor-Mount-Lifts-Rubber.aspx
I've asked him a few times how he expects customers to make that work since we run into big interference issues on the right side with a 1.25". Going higher just makes it a lot worse. I've had to plasma cut the end off of the motor mount bracket back to the bolt that holds down the motor side of the mount and you aren't going to cut much more off.