Turbo 4 Liter

Jezza

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Hello all. I thought that maybe I should post a short thread about my little 4 liter turbo build. Hopefully someone can find it useful and not make some of the mistakes I made. Also, I hope some feedback can help make this thing even better. I guess I'll start with a little backstory. I bought this thing back in December last year. Never had a Jeep before mostly just cars and such. The kiddo likes the Jeep so that's the new project. It's a 2002 Wrangler Sport with a 4.0 and the manual transmission. I had to change out the lifters after I bought it as a few of them were hammering away pretty bad. I also did all the fluids and most of the rubber hoses and belt. I did add the Harland Sharp adjustable rockers and a valve cover spacer at the same time. I went ahead and fabricated a small turbo system to work with the factory engine for now. I decided to do a turbo instead of an engine swap because I live in an emission area and engine swaps are difficult to pass plus in OBD2 emissions. I also like the idea of having the same power at altitude that I do when I am at sea level. The kit is mostly finished, but I will post some of the older build photos as I can find them.
 
Pics of the head gasket job and the roller rockers.

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Yeah it is on HPT currently, but I'm working on a stand alone option as the HP for the JTEC is not great for boost.
 
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Here are some pics of the mockup as well as the dyno graph for the initial tuning. It was only running on wastegate as I didn't have an intercooler at that point. I also didn't have the rpm pickup hooked up so there are no torque numbers. Also a pic of the water cooling adapters I made to supply water to the turbo from the heater core hoses.

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Nice power! How much boost? What stand alone are you looking at? Will it read the crank sensor pattern?
That was 5 psi just on the wastegate spring. I have an air to water intercooler I'm working on getting all the parts sorted for. That should also me to turn the boost up a bit. I am testing an AEM Infinity unit currently that would be a sub $1k option. Still a little expensive, but considering the HPT MPVI2 with the pro inputs and 2 credits is around $650 an extra $300 or so you could have something that would actually work. Plus it has all the bells and whistles of a full stand alone like boost control, flex fuel, traction control, multiple maps, barometric correction, knock control and real wideband feedback. I am still in early testing right now and working out a few bugs. Integration with the stock PCM is a must as it drives the gauge cluster through the bus wiring. Some other Jeep related options I am working on as well are an extended idle function and speedometer calibration through the software. I am currently using an external crank trigger and the factory internal cam sensor. There would have to be significant interest to get the factory crank pattern to be added in the firmware. The crank trigger I have setup is pretty basic and relatively cheap. I just modified a stock damper pulley and made a billet bracket for the sensor.
 
I love turbochargers, but for this I chose to go stroker to make it simple on the tuning side. I bought Syked tuning software thinking I could use it to tune a turbo 4.0, but it has the same short comings. Syked should do fine with a N/A 4.7.
 
I love turbochargers, but for this I chose to go stroker to make it simple on the tuning side. I bought Syked tuning software thinking I could use it to tune a turbo 4.0, but it has the same short comings. Syked should do fine with a N/A 4.7.
I used Syked one time on a Charger. I didn't really care for it. Diablo has relatively all the same stuff. Also whatever version of the Syked software we had it had to be updated by them, so after a month or two when the car came back for some touch-ups we had to have them reactivate the license. I was also a little concerned about their long term stability with their pending (at that time and maybe still) lawsuit with HP Tuners.
 
I like the simple solution for a trigger wheel. Adding EFI to my '67 Mustang was pretty straightforward. I came to the same conclusion that the best way to turbo a Jeep was a piggyback and that was more than what I wanted to do. When my son gets a Jeep I will buy the Hptuners for his TJ. Do you work in a shop that builds and tunes cars?
 
I like the simple solution for a trigger wheel. Adding EFI to my '67 Mustang was pretty straightforward. I came to the same conclusion that the best way to turbo a Jeep was a piggyback and that was more than what I wanted to do. When my son gets a Jeep I will buy the Hptuners for his TJ. Do you work in a shop that builds and tunes cars?
I was originally thinking about welding up some of the teeth on the flywheel, but then the factory PCM would not have had a crank reference. Without the PCM having engine speed I would loose the tach, alternator and probably cruise control as well. I looked at piggybacks, but they all seem to have their disadvantages as well, and as long as you have to hack the wiring anyways might as well get all the options and advantages. HP will work great on a naturally aspirated Jeep. It has sufficent tables to make the engine run well. It's the addition of a two bar that makes the closed loop fueling go loopy. I have been driving mine and it runs okay, but only in open loop. I used to work on cars. Then I realized that the automotive industry is far to whored out to ever make a good living. I switched careers and kept the auto shop around to play on my own stuff.
 
Precisely what I was wondering, how the low res map table was working out. Sounds as if it is adequate but not “right”.
 
I worked on it a bit today and got some of my overdue wiring and switches installed. I also made some carbon fiber parts as well for the switch panel and the defrost grid. My defrost vent grid was all busted out and the plastic was brittle so I cut the remaining pieces out and made a little panel to glue in. The switch panel I made the face from carbon and the side brackets I 3d printed in PETG. I still need to order some cigarette lighters and I want to do a usb panel mount as well.

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More stuff showing up every day. Currie track bars and steering linkage. Rockjock springs and Savvy arms. I want to get all the old 170k mile suspension out and replace the Rough Country lift at the same time that I install the front diff and rebuild the rear.

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I bought an extra transfer case a few weeks back so I could install a SYE and have a spare. I got the Teraflex super short kit. It installed pretty easily. I did fight the pump a bit getting it together. Everything was in pretty good shape for an unknown Ebay transfer case. I'm planning on doing a flat skid plate tummy tuck, and making my own plate out of aluminum.

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Had a little time to work on the AEM Infinity stand alone this weekend. I tested all the sensors and did a quick crank to see if the crank pattern would sync. I had a little bit of a hard time firing it the first time as the sync was off about 60 degrees, but once I set the offset it started without hesitation. I have not had much of a chance to drive it yet and dial in the tables, but I can say the dash is working 100% and the A/C works as well. Alternator is charging normally and all the gauges are reading correct. I still need to play with the speedometer and create a table to generate the signal. This should allow me to make changes in the table to recalibrate the speedometer without changing the speed sensor gear or adding an external box.

Video of it idling and revving.

 
Dude, I don't know why you were asking questions about cranking up the boost. Seems like you could teach us a few things! I'm loving the build with all the custom fab. I'm following this 👍

But yeah, to answer your question from the other thread knowing where you are coming from now, as long as you keep that turbo where it's relatively efficient boost-wise, I don't think it's going to push the limits of the motor hp wise.

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