Tweeter Recommendations?

Yeah I was thinking something like that, I’d like to plan for other possibilities in the future. I have a powered subwoofer so I should only need a 4 channel amp it sounds like, I was thinking this one? I looked for a 100Wx4 one, cause my speakers are 100W RMS, but this one at 75Wx4 seems pretty good too

I don't see where it's CEA compliant, which means it hasn't been tested to see if it puts out it's rated power. Reviews said it didn't come with a birth sheet. Birth sheets is where that specific amp, not the model but the actual amp that arrives at your doorstep, has been tested at the factory.

It's class D, so it should be pretty efficient compared to AB in regards to getting the most power out of it. Class D used to be for subs, but technology advances have them powering full range speakers pretty well.

It's small footprint is definitely a plus. I've never used Sound Ordinance so I don't have any input on their gear. Maybe someone who has can chime in.

As far as size and power, I think you would be happy with it, and if you ever get an appropriate component set, giving them 160w per side would get them pretty dang loud and still sound clear.
 
I don't see where it's CEA compliant, which means it hasn't been tested to see if it puts out it's rated power. Reviews said it didn't come with a birth sheet. Birth sheets is where that specific amp, not the model but the actual amp that arrives at your doorstep, has been tested at the factory.

It's class D, so it should be pretty efficient compared to AB in regards to getting the most power out of it. Class D used to be for subs, but technology advances have them powering full range speakers pretty well.

It's small footprint is definitely a plus. I've never used Sound Ordinance so I don't have any input on their gear. Maybe someone who has can chime in.

As far as size and power, I think you would be happy with it, and if you ever get an appropriate component set, giving them 160w per side would get them pretty dang loud and still sound clear.
Oh interesting, good to know. I have the Sound Ordinance powered subwoofer which has worked for me so I am not too worried about that. I was going to power my sound bar speakers with the amp too, so it would just be 75W to the fronts. I might keep looking and see if I can get a 4x100W amp instead, my speakers have a 100W rms and I want them to be as clear as possible, esp on the highway
 
Oh interesting, good to know. I have the Sound Ordinance powered subwoofer which has worked for me so I am not too worried about that. I was going to power my sound bar speakers with the amp too, so it would just be 75W to the fronts. I might keep looking and see if I can get a 4x100W amp instead, my speakers have a 100W rms and I want them to be as clear as possible, esp on the highway

You will be powering the sound bar speakers and the indash speakers, and all 4 are 100w rms speakers, is that right?

If so, I think if you get that amp that you mentioned that you will be happy with that setup. Just set your gains on that amp and you will be good to go. Here's what I would do..

Get the new amp connected up. Turn off the powered sub so it isn't interfering with anything. Turn the gain all the way down on the amp. Find you a song that you are familiar with. Turn your head unit volume up to about 75% or so, note the volume number, and hit play . Slowly start turning the gain up on your amp and you will start to hear music. (This is always the best part). Turn the gain up until you start to hear distortion in your song coming from the speakers. Ease the gain back down real slowly until the distortion fades away. Listen to a couple more songs and make sure there isn't any distortion. Now you know when you are riding around and want to crank it up, you know that you can safely go up that volume number, and not worry about hurting a thing. If you go a little above that number, just remember that some distortion is going to come along with it. With time, you can better identify what distortion sounds like and adjust your listening levels accordingly. Some songs just aren't as loud as others and you have to turn it up.

You can also set the gain on your sub this way, too. You could use a series of bass tones to test with. If it were me, and it was easy to get to, I'd remove the remote wire to the new amp so it would only be the sub playing. Again, set your head unit to 75% volume or whatever your volume number was from the previous step. Play your test tones, and sweeps, bass tracks, and whatnot. Turn up the gain until it distorts then dial it back just a little bit. If your headunit has a subwoofer level adjustment, I'd do this with that set to max. That way when you have your stereo cranked up and you think it's too bass heavy, you can always turn it down. If you want the sub to be as loud as it can be, adjust the sub level up because you know it will be at a save level because that the way the gain was set.

Now your mids/highs amp and sub are set at the same level. You can turn it up to your volume number and everything matches, distortion-free enough, and you won't blow anything . The mids/highs aren't blaring and distorting while you turning it up to try and get more bass to play or visa versa. It is close enough that only minor adjustments in the levels, if any, will need to be made.
 
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You will be powering the sound bar speakers and the indash speakers, and all 4 are 100w rms speakers, is that right?

If so, I think if you get that amp that you mentioned that you will be happy with that setup. Just set your gains on that amp and you will be good to go. Here's what I would do..

Get the new amp connected up. Turn off the powered sub so it isn't interfering with anything. Turn the gain all the way down on the amp. Find you a song that you are familiar with. Turn your head unit volume up to about 75% or so, note the volume number, and hit play . Slowly start turning the gain up on your amp and you will start to hear music. (This is always the best part). Turn the gain up until you start to hear distortion in your song coming from the speakers. Ease the gain back down real slowly until the distortion fades away. Listen to a couple more songs and make sure there isn't any distortion. Now you know when you are riding around and want to crank it up, you know that you can safely go up that volume number, and not worry about hurting a thing. If you go a little above that number, just remember that some distortion is going to come along with it. With time, you can better identify what distortion sounds like and adjust your listening levels accordingly. Some songs just aren't as loud as others and you have to turn it up.

You can also set the gain on your sub this way, too. You could use a series of bass tones to test with. If it were me, and it was easy to get to, I'd remove the remote wire to the new amp so it would only be the sub playing. Again, set your head unit to 75% volume or whatever your volume number was from the previous step. Play your test tones, and sweeps, bass tracks, and whatnot. Turn up the gain until it distorts then dial it back just a little bit. If your headunit has a subwoofer level adjustment, I'd do this with that set to max. That way when you have your stereo cranked up and you think it's too bass heavy, you can always turn it down. If you want the sub to be as loud as it can be, adjust the sub level up because you know it will be at a save level because that the way the gain was set.

Now your mids/highs amp and sub are set at the same level. You can turn it up to your volume number and everything matches, distortion-free enough, and you won't blow anything . The mids/highs aren't blaring and distorting while you turning it up to try and get more bass to play or visa versa. It is close enough that only minor adjustments in the levels, if any, will need to be made.
Thank you! I have had trouble with all the setting on my head unit and subwoofer and knowing what order to make adjustments. I have been fiddling with my subwoofer for a while and can never get it exactly how I like it, once I get the amp and finish sound deadening I'll do it correctly like this so I can just leave it. Same with my EQ settings and sound retrieve, loudness, and all the other settings
 
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Thank you! I have had trouble with all the setting on my head unit and subwoofer and knowing what order to make adjustments. I have been fiddling with my subwoofer for a while and can never get it exactly how I like it, once I get the amp and finish sound deadening I'll do it correctly like this so I can just leave it. Same with my EQ settings and sound retrieve, loudness, and all the other settings

Personally, I leave all my head unit stuff flat when setting my gains. No EQ boosting frequencies. I leave loudness off.

This is similar. My method may be slightly different, but you can use this and get more info on what you are doing and why.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-kg0guGtViI1/learn/car/subwoofers/tuning.html
 
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Thanks, those helped a bunch. I am now wondering about the wiring, especially with me being an electrical novice.

Here is a diagram of my head unit from the manual:
Screenshot 2022-04-14 141624.png



Currently I have 2 RCA wires in the rear/subwoofer output for my powered sub. It seems for the amp I would need all 4 RCA connections for the front and rear. How would I use both the RCA ports for the subwoofer and the rear speakers? Could I just splice the rear speaker RCA wires to go to the subwoofer, or would that not work? I am a little confused about how the head unit could tell if it's outputting to rear speakers or a subwoofer also. Theres a setting to turn the subwoofer output on/off/reverse on the head unit, would that be how it gets determined?

g777M754-o_left.jpg
Here is the amp input

Sorry for all the questions, but theres a lot going on here and I am still trying to learn how electrical systems work.
 
Thanks, those helped a bunch. I am now wondering about the wiring, especially with me being an electrical novice.

Here is a diagram of my head unit from the manual:
View attachment 322694


Currently I have 2 RCA wires in the rear/subwoofer output for my powered sub. It seems for the amp I would need all 4 RCA connections for the front and rear. How would I use both the RCA ports for the subwoofer and the rear speakers? Could I just splice the rear speaker RCA wires to go to the subwoofer, or would that not work? I am a little confused about how the head unit could tell if it's outputting to rear speakers or a subwoofer also. Theres a setting to turn the subwoofer output on/off/reverse on the head unit, would that be how it gets determined?

View attachment 322693
Here is the amp input

Sorry for all the questions, but theres a lot going on here and I am still trying to learn how electrical systems work.

It's all good. Ask away.

That diagram is confusing. This is just an aftermarket Pioneer head unit. If you get this 4 channel amp, all your speakers and will be amped, so all you need to focus on is getting the RCA outputs into the correct amp inputs, and wiring your speakers to your amp.

Since you are using the rear channel for the sub, you will lose front/rear speaker fade. If you had a head unit with front and rear outputs, plus a dedicated sub pre-out, you would have the front/rear fade feature. I've always used head units with 3 sets of outputs. I'm assuming somewhere in the head unit settings that you specify that the rear set of outputs are going to a sub. That would give you subwoofer level control from the headunit.

Not a big deal in your Jeep, imo. Just get 2 of these rca y-splitters, and put one on each leg of the RCAs coming from the front channel of your head unit and plug it into the 4 inputs on the amp.


71sNQ6Da4sL._SL1200_.jpg



In the future, if you wanted to get a new headunit, you could get one with 3 sets of preamp outputs. The higher the pre-amp voltage, the less you have to use your gain on your amp, which is good. They are listed with the specs of the head unit, 2v, 4v, 5v, etc. 4v is pretty common these days and I won't buy a head unit without 4v or better outputs. When you install it, you can remove the y-splitters and you wire the front channel outs directly to the front channel inputs on your amp, as well as the rear channel output directly to your amp's rear channel inputs and regain your front/rear fader functionality.
 
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It's all good. Ask away.

That diagram is confusing. This is just an aftermarket Pioneer head unit. If you get this 4 channel amp, all your speakers and will be amped, so all you need to focus on is getting the RCA outputs into the correct amp inputs, and wiring your speakers to your amp.

Since you are using the rear channel for the sub, you will lose front/rear speaker fade. If you had a head unit with front and rear outputs, plus a dedicated sub pre-out, you would have the front/rear fade feature. I've always used head units with 3 sets of outputs. I'm assuming somewhere in the head unit settings that you specify that the rear set of outputs are going to a sub. That would give you subwoofer level control from the headunit.

Not a big deal in your Jeep, imo. Just get 2 of these rca y-splitters, and put one on each leg of the RCAs coming from the front channel of your head unit and plug it into the 4 inputs on the amp.


View attachment 322755


In the future, if you wanted to get a new headunit, you could get one with 3 sets of preamp outputs. The higher the pre-amp voltage, the less you have to use your gain on your amp, which is good. They are listed with the specs of the head unit, 2v, 4v, 5v, etc. 4v is pretty common these days and I won't buy a head unit without 4v or better outputs. When you install it, you can remove the y-splitters and you wire the front channel outs directly to the front channel inputs on your amp, as well as the rear channel output directly to your amp's rear channel inputs and regain your front/rear fader functionality.
Great thank you, sucks cause my read speakers overpower my fronts but I’ll probably be fine with it. At least it’ll be able to work easily

The head unit has an option to turn subwoofer output on/off/reverse so I’m assuming that is what tells it the rear output is going to a sub
 
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It's been a long time since I played with this stuff (well, at least in a vehicle). Passive crossovers take one set of power from an amp, and split in to various drivers - generally with a 6db or 12db rolloff between them. That is what most multi driver full range speakers. For the most part, you only have your eq to get the sound you want. With active crossovers, you take one preout and split it to multiple amps. each amp powering it's pair of drivers. Your headset may or may not have this built in to split the subwoofer from the other speakers. This is kind of easier on the amps (as they are not driving full range), but more importantly lets you balance out your system with drivers of different sensitivity. The next level is DSP's. I don't know if car audio has really gotten into that - but it is digital processing that allows you to tune within a driver for the drivers sensitivity and for the "room" the drivers are in. My home amps have built in DSP's so I can mold the sound within each driver (kind of like an eq per driver before each amp). My home system has an active crossover to split out the sub, then separate DSP's for the full range (which in turn have passive crossovers within them) and sub speakers.

Not sure if any of that is enlightening. I have not figured out how far down the rabbit hole I want to go with my LJ. I have gone way too far in the past - only to have my car system stolen and my home system only truely enjoyable when I am home alone (which has 6000 watts running to massive subs tuned flat to 15hz-which is stupid for music, but really lets you feel the T-Rex behind you).
 
I run a pair of Alpine SPR-10TW 1" tweeters in an aluminum pod I picked up off ebay.
Mounted to the side sail panels in the lower corners of the windshield.
SPR-10TW.jpg
 
It's all good. Ask away.

That diagram is confusing. This is just an aftermarket Pioneer head unit. If you get this 4 channel amp, all your speakers and will be amped, so all you need to focus on is getting the RCA outputs into the correct amp inputs, and wiring your speakers to your amp.

Since you are using the rear channel for the sub, you will lose front/rear speaker fade. If you had a head unit with front and rear outputs, plus a dedicated sub pre-out, you would have the front/rear fade feature. I've always used head units with 3 sets of outputs. I'm assuming somewhere in the head unit settings that you specify that the rear set of outputs are going to a sub. That would give you subwoofer level control from the headunit.

Not a big deal in your Jeep, imo. Just get 2 of these rca y-splitters, and put one on each leg of the RCAs coming from the front channel of your head unit and plug it into the 4 inputs on the amp.


View attachment 322755


In the future, if you wanted to get a new headunit, you could get one with 3 sets of preamp outputs. The higher the pre-amp voltage, the less you have to use your gain on your amp, which is good. They are listed with the specs of the head unit, 2v, 4v, 5v, etc. 4v is pretty common these days and I won't buy a head unit without 4v or better outputs. When you install it, you can remove the y-splitters and you wire the front channel outs directly to the front channel inputs on your amp, as well as the rear channel output directly to your amp's rear channel inputs and regain your front/rear fader functionality.
I'm looking into getting my amp again, I talked with a crutchfield employee over chat and he recommended this head unit. I think I will end up getting it, as my head unit is old anyways. Losing the front/rear fade might be annoying as my rear speakers always overpower my fronts so I think it would be worth it
 
I see I never came back to share what I ended up doing. Thanks to the recommendations on this thread, and also a PM convo with @skrelnik, I ended up going with component speakers in the front. I chose Rockford Fosgates because I found a good deal on them, and already had RFs in the overhead sound bar and liked them a lot.

So, 5.25" in the dash, and tweeters above the dash. My notes are here.
 
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I see I never came back to share what I ended up doing. Thanks to the recommendations on this thread, and also a PM convo with @skrelnik, I ended up going with component speakers in the front. I chose Rockford Fosgates because I found a good deal on them, and already had RFs in the overhead sound bar and liked them a lot.

So, 5.25" in the dash, and tweeters above the dash. My notes are here.

Added pics at the link above.