Two speedo gears chewed after SYE—here's why

RaymondT

TJ Enthusiast
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After 5000 or so miles after the SYE install, my speedo quit and check engine light came on. Standard VSS code. After pulling the sender/gear assembly, the teeth on the drive gear and speedo gear were chewed. The instructions from Tom Woods have you rotating the off-set gear until it just engages. Other's have suggested you line up the gear range imprinted on the housing.

So I pull the driveshaft, yoke, and housing off. Swap the drive gear end for end as the damage is only at the one end where the gear rides on. Several hours later and overnight to let the UltraGrey RTV set, I fill the case with ATF+4 and attempt to set it up by rotating the housing while the wife watches the speedo. I swear I can feel when it starts to spin, yet nothing so I keep rotating further. Finally I get it kind of working but it fails after a block or so. So... I order a new wheel, drive gear, sensor, and pigtail just in case.

This weekend, I tear it all apart. Chuck a drill on the end of the speedo gear, spin in up, and nothing. Pull the sender out of the black housing, spin it up, and the speedo works fine. (rest deleted)

Update! The reason the gears were getting chewed up plus the sender square drive not being lined up (causing no output) was this little warning in Advance Adapters instructions. Most of you guys won't run into this problem with big rubber and lower teeth counts.

"When installing a speedometer gear with either 39, 40, 41 or 42 teeth, the gear and the housing must be installed separately. These are all large diameter speedometer gears. By first installing the gear into the tailhousing you will be able to tilt the gear shaft up allowing you to position the gear past the output shaft. Once this gear is in place, the speedometer housing must be aligned with the speedometer gear shaft and indexed into the tailhousing. When installing the speedometer housing, lube the o-ring that contacts the tailhousing with a bit of oil. This will prevent the o-ring from being nicked upon installation or rotation, causing this housing to leak. "

So it looks like the gear wasn't getting past the O/P shaft to ride in the correct spot. This forced the sender drive too deep into the plastic gear and that's why it wasn't generating a signal. Another gear is on order...



Disengaged.JPG
Engaged.JPG
 
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Wow, that's pretty shocking. This makes me wonder how many others have had the same issue.

Those photos are very telling!
 
After 5000 or so miles after the SYE install, my speedo quit and check engine light came on. Standard VSS code. After pulling the sender/gear assembly, the teeth on the drive gear and speedo gear were chewed. The instructions from Tom Woods have you rotating the off-set gear until it just engages. Other's have suggested you line up the gear range imprinted on the housing.

So I pull the driveshaft, yoke, and housing off. Swap the drive gear end for end as the damage is only at the one end where the gear rides on. Several hours later and overnight to let the UltraGrey RTV set, I fill the case with ATF+4 and attempt to set it up by rotating the housing while the wife watches the speedo. I swear I can feel when it starts to spin, yet nothing so I keep rotating further. Finally I get it kind of working but it fails after a block or so. So... I order a new wheel, drive gear, sensor, and pigtail just in case.

This weekend, I tear it all apart. Chuck a drill on the end of the speedo gear, spin in up, and nothing. Pull the sender out of the black housing, spin it up, and the speedo works fine. Here's why; the OE sender has a small square drive. If the wheel is slightly too deep, it won't engage. The aftermarket sender (Standard brand) has the square drive the full length. Check out the attached pictures. I have to wonder how may gears have gotten destroyed because of this.

View attachment 136559View attachment 136560

View attachment 136562
I've read it a few times and it seems that you are saying that the reason the gear stripped is due to it being allowed to free spin on the sender shaft due to the short square drive on the end of the OEM sender going past the mating square part inside the speedo gear shaft. Is that correct?
 
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My understanding is those gears come in two different shaft lengths, when I did mine that was part of the parts criteria.
The difference between the long and short shaft versions is large enough that they are not even close to being swapped in place of each other.
 
After 5000 or so miles after the SYE install, my speedo quit and check engine light came on. Standard VSS code. After pulling the sender/gear assembly, the teeth on the drive gear and speedo gear were chewed. The instructions from Tom Woods have you rotating the off-set gear until it just engages. Other's have suggested you line up the gear range imprinted on the housing.

So I pull the driveshaft, yoke, and housing off. Swap the drive gear end for end as the damage is only at the one end where the gear rides on. Several hours later and overnight to let the UltraGrey RTV set, I fill the case with ATF+4 and attempt to set it up by rotating the housing while the wife watches the speedo. I swear I can feel when it starts to spin, yet nothing so I keep rotating further. Finally I get it kind of working but it fails after a block or so. So... I order a new wheel, drive gear, sensor, and pigtail just in case.

This weekend, I tear it all apart. Chuck a drill on the end of the speedo gear, spin in up, and nothing. Pull the sender out of the black housing, spin it up, and the speedo works fine. Here's why; the OE sender has a small square drive. If the wheel is slightly too deep, it won't engage. The aftermarket sender (Standard brand) has the square drive the full length. Check out the attached pictures. I have to wonder how may gears have gotten destroyed because of this.

View attachment 136559View attachment 136560

View attachment 136562

Talk to me about that custom? die laying on the red plastic.
 
I've read it a few times and it seems that you are saying that the reason the gear stripped is due to it being allowed to free spin on the sender shaft due to the short square drive on the end of the OEM sender going past the mating square part inside the speedo gear shaft. Is that correct?

(Edited) Turns out, I missed an important note and I'm not even sure it was in the instructions I got. The square drive being too deep to engage was due to the gear not being deep enough. See the edited post above. Call me a dumbass...
 
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Talk to me about that custom? die laying on the red plastic.

Lee Collet die for neck sizing. Relatively cheap and available for most calibers. They are gaining traction in the reloading world for their ability to true up neck wall thickness without neck turning. This video says it best;


I might do a little polishing as the finishing on these is a little rough. But they do the job!
 
After 5000 or so miles after the SYE install, my speedo quit and check engine light came on. Standard VSS code. After pulling the sender/gear assembly, the teeth on the drive gear and speedo gear were chewed. The instructions from Tom Woods have you rotating the off-set gear until it just engages. Other's have suggested you line up the gear range imprinted on the housing.

So I pull the driveshaft, yoke, and housing off. Swap the drive gear end for end as the damage is only at the one end where the gear rides on. Several hours later and overnight to let the UltraGrey RTV set, I fill the case with ATF+4 and attempt to set it up by rotating the housing while the wife watches the speedo. I swear I can feel when it starts to spin, yet nothing so I keep rotating further. Finally I get it kind of working but it fails after a block or so. So... I order a new wheel, drive gear, sensor, and pigtail just in case.

This weekend, I tear it all apart. Chuck a drill on the end of the speedo gear, spin in up, and nothing. Pull the sender out of the black housing, spin it up, and the speedo works fine. (rest deleted)

Update! The reason the gears were getting chewed up plus the sender square drive not being lined up (causing no output) was this little warning in Advance Adapters instructions. Most of you guys won't run into this problem with big rubber and lower teeth counts.

"When installing a speedometer gear with either 39, 40, 41 or 42 teeth, the gear and the housing must be installed separately. These are all large diameter speedometer gears. By first installing the gear into the tailhousing you will be able to tilt the gear shaft up allowing you to position the gear past the output shaft. Once this gear is in place, the speedometer housing must be aligned with the speedometer gear shaft and indexed into the tailhousing. When installing the speedometer housing, lube the o-ring that contacts the tailhousing with a bit of oil. This will prevent the o-ring from being nicked upon installation or rotation, causing this housing to leak. "

So it looks like the gear wasn't getting past the O/P shaft to ride in the correct spot. This forced the sender drive too deep into the plastic gear and that's why it wasn't generating a signal. Another gear is on order...



View attachment 136559View attachment 136560
Thanks for the info i just changed mine and havent put my tcase back in yet. I will surely check this before the case goes back in.