It's the same reason a motorcycle or bicycle shifter/brake isn't affected by turning the handle bars. The cable housing and the stops on either end support the cable. Whatever movement happens in between the stops won't effect the cable.
Tworley build
I had to adjust my cable shifter after a tummy tuck, it shifted the shifter assembly up and tightened the line. Easy fix...
The cable also got a bit "sticky" in the winter, curious if anyone else has run into that issue...
The cable also got a bit "sticky" in the winter, curious if anyone else has run into that issue...
OP
No issues shifting thru thru the gears. Idle stays the same throughout. I think I'll like this mod. I've got it taught enough that one click will begin idle up.
And on that note, the Jeep is back up and running with new battery cables and terminals. I actually found a hairline crack on both of the old terminals which is why they kept coming loose over time.
And on that note, the Jeep is back up and running with new battery cables and terminals. I actually found a hairline crack on both of the old terminals which is why they kept coming loose over time.
OP
eBay find. Scratch and dent. Mixed feelings. I got a great deal on it, just a few very light scratches. It's just a hair to big, almost literally. It is blocking the latch mechanism so the sliding seat function is almost non functional, I really have to work it. Maybe a few times pulling the seat slider function will self clearance it.
OP
A new steering box is sitting on the floor of the jeep. I have researched this quite a bit lately and found some talk of a steering box from a Chevy S-10 fitting, and it uses bearings instead of bushings like the durango box. Information was severely lacking, so instead I have gone with a reman unit from NAPA. $180 with a core charge of $222! Plan is to hopefully swap this in tonight. The pitman arm was replaced a couple of years ago, I am hoping it comes right off. I have a slide hammer that I can use if things get a little tense.
My current box has play on the lower shaft, which leads me to believe the sector shaft bearing has just worn out (120k miles). I couldnt find the exact part numbers on it which is why I decided to go the reman route vs rebuild. It currently wanders all over the road, I really have to fight it to stay in my lane. One minute the steering wheel is at 11, the next its at 12. Im getting sick of the constant over-correcting. So stay tuned, Ill update with photos this evening.
My current box has play on the lower shaft, which leads me to believe the sector shaft bearing has just worn out (120k miles). I couldnt find the exact part numbers on it which is why I decided to go the reman route vs rebuild. It currently wanders all over the road, I really have to fight it to stay in my lane. One minute the steering wheel is at 11, the next its at 12. Im getting sick of the constant over-correcting. So stay tuned, Ill update with photos this evening.
This guy had the best video on changing a steering box. It helped me tremendously and showed several tips that I had not thought of. Good luck.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6bBYBP8uxYk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6bBYBP8uxYk
OP
New reman'd NAPA box is in. Pretty painless. I bought a pitman arm puller just in case and the arm came off with a few good whacks. Reinstalling I didn't have a torque wrench that went to 185ft/lbs so I just gave it a real good tightening with a cheater bar. Bled fully and no leaks. Going for a drive later tonight to see how it handles.
OP
Initial drive and it's harder to turn left than it is right. I've read conflicting info on the bleed process which says lock to lock, and one that says not lock to lock as it creates a vacuum. I'm going to try and bleed it again in the morning by not going lock to lock.
Your list of symptoms make me think mines going out also.
I'll be impatiently waiting to find out how it goes.
The oil is probably a little aerated from the bleeding process. Try it in the morning, it’ll probably work fine.
OP
Still takes more pressure to turn left. I put a quart in last night, not sure if the new box had anything in it or not. Ill bleed it again.
Opps.. didn't scroll down. I guess I didn't need to wait long
Well FWIW the steering is a hell of a lot tighter now, and I didnt feel like I was riding in a boat going down the highway this morning. A dry steer test is what confirmed the play on the lower shaft. That was last September, so it had slowly gotten worse.
OP
OP
Well f.
I found an old thread where Blaine suggested removing one of the pressure lines in an attempt to remove any trapped air. May try that next week. Headed to Moab tomorrow in the wife's Cherokee
OP
An update on the box--it seems to have resolved itself. Effort to turn seems equal for either direction. Maybe there was just a little bit of air that has worked itself out or I have just gotten used to it. Its not making any noise and no leaks so I am calling it a win!
Last Saturday I developed a heavy vibration which was determined to be the front ujoint on the driveshaft. A new spicer 1310X is on its way. The driveshaft was rebuilt 2017 so they did not last long. I plan to dial in the pinion to 0 now to based on a recent discussion.
Last Saturday I developed a heavy vibration which was determined to be the front ujoint on the driveshaft. A new spicer 1310X is on its way. The driveshaft was rebuilt 2017 so they did not last long. I plan to dial in the pinion to 0 now to based on a recent discussion.
OP
Yes sir. Initial starting it felt tight. Performed another 20 lock to locks, still tight. Pulled the high pressure line which didn't seem to make much difference then it sat for a few days. I think sitting helped honestly. It's not near as tight as it was in the beginning