It's a long process. Most of it discussing what is going to work and what is not. I might have gotten impatient at one point but they all slowed me down and we got the clearance that was needed after some minor adjustments. I am headed on a work trip today and taking the jeep to try and get everything broken in and settled.
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Can't wait to see the work this weekend - are you keeping the flares off for good or replacing them?
 
Can't wait to see the work this weekend - are you keeping the flares off for good or replacing them?
I'll replace them with something soon. I don't want to go thru winter without. Though I haven't found a replacement yet.
 
Some additional photos from the weekend

Old superlift coils and new curries. Roughly 16" free length vs 18"
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Beveling the edges of the shock spacers to give them a degree or two more of movement within the mount
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The RGA 4340 coils I bought several months ago
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The old bushcracker found it's way on the wall of fame
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After 415 miles of driving yesterday, the rear is 13.5" ride height giving me 7.5" of uptravel, 4.5" down travel. I suspect this will change as more mileage is added. These shocks soak up a ton of the little jarring bumps from the highway. Big dips and speed bumps are absorbed well. I am trying to feel the valving change thru the movements as @jjvw mentioned and I am not sure if what I am feeling is exactly that. It is far more comfortable that the old bilsteins that were on there which have found there way to the dumpster already. The coils in the rear have settled at 13.5" ride height so far, fronts are 16.5".
 
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... I am trying to feel the valving change thru the movements as @jjvw mentioned and I am not sure if what I am feeling is exactly that. ...

This is getting into the interesting differences in valving and how the same shock can potentially be so different depending on the tune and the vehicle.
 
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So not as exciting as last weekend but I finally fixed my speedometer! It would jump all over the place. Cruising at 65 it would read 20, then it would jump to 100+. I tried the sensor wiring first because I thought it was a bad connection, no luck. Then I tried to remove the driveshaft to torque the output shaft nut only to be dealt a stripped bolt. So today I finally worked the bolt loose, torqued the nut, and speedo is solid again. I miss tracking mileage. It's been acting weird since maybe very late last year. I used the butt splice heat shrink connectors too just to clean up the old connection anyway
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So not as exciting as last weekend but I finally fixed my speedometer! It would jump all over the place. Cruising at 65 it would read 20, then it would jump to 100+. I tried the sensor wiring first because I thought it was a bad connection, no luck. Then I tried to remove the driveshaft to torque the output shaft nut only to be dealt a stripped bolt. So today I finally worked the bolt loose, torqued the nut, and speedo is solid again. I miss tracking mileage. It's been acting weird since maybe very late last year. I used the butt splice heat shrink connectors too just to clean up the old connection anyway View attachment 111995

Do you have the blue monkey speedo healer? Mine does the exact same thing if I hit a bump hard enough.... Might have to try this out.
 
Do you have the blue monkey speedo healer? Mine does the exact same thing if I hit a bump hard enough.... Might have to try this out.
Yes. Every thread I found pointed to the nut not being torqued tight enough. I want to say jb conversions requires that nut to be 220 ft/lbs
 
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Tonight I adjusted my drum brakes. My parking brake has not worked for the last couple months (at least not well). Driver side adjuster wheel took several turns. I also suspect this is why my rear brakes would grab and lock up when it was wet out

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Holy Cross yesterday
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I felt an odd vibration about 20 miles from the trail head. Tried to monitor it but it went away several miles later. Right at the trailhead I developed a loud chirp that was consistent with speed throughout the whole day. Turns out my rear shaft was going out (angry sparrows). A new rebuild kit is on the way. Similar to front, turns out these were greaseable joints. 35k miles and 3 years old.
 
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Nothing exciting here--replaced the currie clamp bolts. Picked this up off CL a couple years ago and the two were mismatched. Adjusted my toe after Holy Cross and the bolt was completely stripped.

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Driveshaft rebuilt. The centering yoke was dry as a bone. Packed the new one with red n' tacky. All 1310x joints. The ball joint adapter from harbor freight works perfectly for pounding the new rubber boot on
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I'll slap some black paint on tomorrow
 
Rear pinion has always been a degree or so too high. I experienced vibes usually about 70+ which never really bothered me to much because I don't travel that fast. Well today I felt a vibration come out of nowhere on my newly built driveshaft. I crawled under and my 8mm bolt holding the strap was hanging by a thread. Must have missed it when applying loctite last week. Afterwards while I was under there I decided to adjust my pinion a schosh. IIRC one full turn on MC arms are 1/16". I did 2 rotations on the bottoms and one for the top. Going to eat dinner then go for a drive and see what I did. For one reason or another I've adjusted these arms every year I've had them. Double adjustable would sure be nice

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I’d be fiddling with them often enough I’m leaning that way myself. Hopefully you’ve got the vibes though after this round
I’d be fiddling with them often enough I’m leaning that way myself. Hopefully you’ve got the vibes though after this round

I would definitely suggest it. Especially with your savvy tuck on the way
 
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In my latest quest for smooth riding, I am ditching the front bilsteins. I purchased a set of Ranchos (Rs5000x) with 10.73" of travel. Plan is move the upper shock mount as well.
 
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