U-Joint Replacement

[Tahdig_siah]

A shop quoted me on the ujoints. I wasn't there to ask which ujoints need to be replaced. I would like to take it on myself so I wanted to see if they mean the ujoints on the drive axle (front and rear) or they meant the ujoint on the front wheels (right and left)?

 

[rasband]

For that price, just replace all of them yourself (front axle and both drive shafts).

 

[Akitadog]

I bought u-joints, 3 each for drive shafts and took them and the shafts to local driveline shop and they replaced them and balanced for 100 a shaft.

 

[Blackjack]

A shop quoted me on the ujoints. I wasn't there to ask which ujoints need to be replaced. I would like to take it on myself so I wanted to see if they mean the ujoints on the drive axle (front and rear) or they meant the ujoint on the front wheels (right and left)?
View attachment 425192

View attachment 425191

Based on that quote it would appear that is for replacing both front axle ujoints.

 

[CharlesHS]

The part number 371 identifies them as Precision or Moog U Joints.
Better to go with Spicer 5-760X U Joints if you decide to replace them yourself.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014OFD90Y/?tag=wranglerorg-20

 

[TheBoogieman]

A shop quoted me on the ujoints. I wasn't there to ask which ujoints need to be replaced. I would like to take it on myself so I wanted to see if they mean the ujoints on the drive axle (front and rear) or they meant the ujoint on the front wheels (right and left)?
View attachment 425192

View attachment 425191

It says axles. See if you can shake them to check for play.

 

[Tahdig_siah]

It says axles. See if you can shake them to check for play.

To check for play, lift from the front differential and check the front unjoint on the front of the driveshaft as well as each wheel (hands on 12 and 6 o’clock position) ?

 

[TheBoogieman]

To check for play, lift from the front differential and check the front unjoint on the front of the driveshaft as well as each wheel (hands on 12 and 6 o’clock position) ?

My axle u-joints went bad and I could grab the axle shaft, right at the u-joint and make it click with side to side shaking. No need to jack it up.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

As mentioned above by CharlesHS, they were going to be using Moog u-joints which is not a good choice of brand. For the u-joints for your front axle shafts, which is what they were going to be replacing, go with Spicer 5-760x which is a superior u-joint that is more durable, longer lasting, and stronger than the Moog. You can buy the two required Spicer 5-760x u-joints nearly anywhere including Amazon.

 

[cpwolf]

I just did this first time, it was an extremely simple job in my opinion. You need mostly basic mechanic tools and a big hammer.

I took the advice here, do not use a press to take out or install the u joints.

There are videos, but knock out the inner clip, and hit the base of the axle with a hammer, the caps will spread, grab it with vice grips and twist it out, super easy.

A press or ball joint press can bend the ears and then clips won’t go on, and you’re screwed.

Just your friendly Public Service Annmouncent I luckily learned.

 

[JMT]

A shop quoted me on the ujoints. I wasn't there to ask which ujoints need to be replaced. I would like to take it on myself so I wanted to see if they mean the ujoints on the drive axle (front and rear) or they meant the ujoint on the front wheels (right and left)?
View attachment 425192

View attachment 425191

Front axle.

 

[JEEPCJTJ]

There are videos, but knock out the inner clip, and hit the base of the axle with a hammer, the caps will spread, grab it with vice grips and twist it out, super easy.

Well it may be super easy in Texas but Ohio is part if the rust belt. Just removing the wheel bearing hub from the spindle could add a good hour per side the first time and the universal caps are just as stubborn.

The second time I do it should be easy though, I used antisieze on the bearing hub and coated the outside of the universal joint caps with motor oil during my reinstall.

 

[cpwolf]

Well it may be super easy in Texas but Ohio is part if the rust belt. Just removing the wheel bearing hub from the spindle could add a good hour per side the first time and the universal caps are just as stubborn.

The second time I do it should be easy though, I used antisieze on the bearing hub and coated the outside of the universal joint caps with motor oil during my reinstall.

Fair enough, yeah watching the TJ's with rust....wow. The job is straight forward I'll say...rust can make it harder ,ha

 

[hear]

I want to know what the $25 in shop supplies accounts for.

 

[Tahdig_siah]

I want to know what the $25 in shop supplies accounts for.

shop rags?

 

[CharlesHS]

I want to know what the $25 in shop supplies accounts for.

Penetrant, grease, shop rags and anything else they may use in the rebuild.

 

[TheBoogieman]

I want to know what the $25 in shop supplies accounts for.

It covers the cost of the two footlong subs from Subway.

 

[hear]

Penetrant, grease, shop rags and anything else they may use in the rebuild.

No kidding?


/woosh

 

[TheBoogieman]

No kidding?


/woosh

Decent shops don't do that, or at least are smart enough to hide it into the total price.

 

[Duner]

As mentioned above by CharlesHS, they were going to be using Moog u-joints which is not a good choice of brand. For the u-joints for your front axle shafts, which is what they were going to be replacing, go with Spicer 5-760x which is a superior u-joint that is more durable, longer lasting, and stronger than the Moog. You can buy the two required Spicer 5-760x u-joints nearly anywhere including Amazon.

Would the spicer 5-153X be fine as well? From what I’ve read they are good. Replacing my u joints on my 06 LJ

Spicer 5-153X