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UCF engine skid install

freedom_in_4low

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The two brackets that bolt under the motor mounts are the same. The instructions say the tab points down to the outside, but since they're the same that means the tab is forward on one side and rearward on the other. Is this right or were they supposed to send brackets that mirror one another?

I'd call and ask but... Today's date. Hoping someone that has one remembers or can take a look for me.
 
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freedom_in_4low

freedom_in_4low

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Ah.

This image was on their website but not in the instructions. So it is correct.

ucf-aluminum-engine-skid-plate-for-97-02-tj-40l.jpg
 

SoCalGlide

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I see you figured it out, but IIRC the factory frame mounts they bolt to are offset a bit. They figured out the offset, split the difference, and made their mounting brackets so they would bolt up opposite of each other.
 
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freedom_in_4low

freedom_in_4low

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If you reference the photo I posted above, it shows the driver side bracket attached with bolts pointing up, which is directly counter to the instructions. I'm out of the garage for holiday festivities now, but when I get back to it I'm gonna have to reverse the rear fastener to relieve this interference which isn't allowing the driver strut to align correctly.

PXL_20211224_213834540.jpg


If the thinner bolt head doesn't fix it I'll have to take a grinder to the strut.
 
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CherokeeKid

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Had the same issue about a week ago. Instructions could've been better. I saw a YT video that was helpful for the orientation.

I was able to turn the nut enough on the motor mount side so that the strut just touches the flat of the nut but fits fine, if that makes sense.

Based on your photo though, looks like you have more interference than I did... a grinder would make quick work of it.
 

MountaineerTom

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If you reference the photo I posted above, it shows the driver side bracket attached with bolts pointing up, which is directly counter to the instructions. I'm out of the garage for holiday festivities now, but when I get back to it I'm gonna have to reverse the rear fastener to relieve this interference which isn't allowing the driver strut to align correctly.

View attachment 298305

If the thinner bolt head doesn't fix it I'll have to take a grinder to the strut.
I ground a little off the corner on the driver's side Savvy brace in the same area when I installed it a couple years ago.
 

Moglocker

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If you reference the photo I posted above, it shows the driver side bracket attached with bolts pointing up, which is directly counter to the instructions. I'm out of the garage for holiday festivities now, but when I get back to it I'm gonna have to reverse the rear fastener to relieve this interference which isn't allowing the driver strut to align correctly.

View attachment 298305

If the thinner bolt head doesn't fix it I'll have to take a grinder to the strut.
I had to grind and open mine a bit
 

jesseshoots

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If you reference the photo I posted above, it shows the driver side bracket attached with bolts pointing up, which is directly counter to the instructions. I'm out of the garage for holiday festivities now, but when I get back to it I'm gonna have to reverse the rear fastener to relieve this interference which isn't allowing the driver strut to align correctly.

View attachment 298305

If the thinner bolt head doesn't fix it I'll have to take a grinder to the strut.
Like others, I hit mine with the flap disk to make it work
 
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pagrey

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My Skid Row plate mounts similar to this with the angle tucked out of the way on the inside. I think it's reversed left and right. Seems to make more sense to me but I guess it doesn't matter and really depends on the brackets they send you.

skid.jpg
 
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freedom_in_4low

freedom_in_4low

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This is what I ended up with. Both struts have the flange pointed forward and facing the outside. Both are behind the tab on the mount brackets. This is what produced the least misalignment where the struts mount to the skid plate, YMMV but it matches UCF's website photo posted above (that wasn't in the instructions).

PXL_20220112_030140097.jpg



PXL_20220112_030209148.jpg


PXL_20220112_030324780.jpg
 
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InOmaha

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Drilling through an already installed transfercase skid to put the 4 bolts in the back was a pain. Until I realized I could use my jack to make my chorded drill into an upside down drill press. That got the holes drilled without nearly as much effort. Jack the drill up to the hole and look at it from 2 sides to make sure it's mostly vertical. Hold the drill trigger and ease the jack up whenever it needs a bit more pressure.
 
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freedom_in_4low

freedom_in_4low

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Drilling through an already installed transfercase skid to put the 4 bolts in the back was a pain. Until I realized I could use my jack to make my chorded drill into an upside down drill press. That got the holes drilled without nearly as much effort. Jack the drill up to the hole and look at it from 2 sides to make sure it's mostly vertical. Hold the drill trigger and ease the jack up whenever it needs a bit more pressure.

Good idea. I laid on my right shoulder and used my right arm in an awkward position trying not to let too many hot steel chips fall down on me, all the while aggravating a pinched nerve that woke me up at 4am the next morning.
 

SilverBullet

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Good idea. I laid on my right shoulder and used my right arm in an awkward position trying not to let too many hot steel chips fall down on me, all the while aggravating a pinched nerve that woke me up at 4am the next morning.
Just be careful if you are installing on an automatic. The drill bit may go right through the trans pan if you’re pushing hard enough. Very little clearance, but made it work

B6FFB5A6-4BC5-4238-B8BD-9E70015533A4.jpeg


D60F6F3E-6FE3-4BE2-A902-3BEEC75D0F25.jpeg
 
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NOTNSUV

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Drilling through an already installed transfercase skid to put the 4 bolts in the back was a pain. Until I realized I could use my jack to make my chorded drill into an upside down drill press. That got the holes drilled without nearly as much effort. Jack the drill up to the hole and look at it from 2 sides to make sure it's mostly vertical. Hold the drill trigger and ease the jack up whenever it needs a bit more pressure.
Any thoughts on marking the spots to drill for the engine skid and removing the TC skid to do the drilling? Haven't even looked closely at my TC skid so don't know if I'm nuts or what.
 
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InOmaha

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That works, but requires you to install everything, mark, uninstall, drill, then reintall everything. I wish the TC skid came marked so you could predrill the holes if you buy everything as a package.

I got the thick aluminum. And started drilling the first hole by hand when I got the idea.
 
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NOTNSUV

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That works, but requires you to install everything, mark, uninstall, drill, then reintall everything. I wish the TC skid came marked so you could predrill the holes if you buy everything as a package.

I got the thick aluminum. And started drilling the first hole by hand when I got the idea.
I obviously didn't think this through..
On the other hand, I generally do things twice. :D
 

NOTNSUV

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My UCF skid is scheduled to arrive today. I'm going to try and recruit a second pair of hands (and eyes) to help me out with this one.
I'm not 100% but I think the transfer case/tummy tuck skid is Nth Degree. I did notice on that skid that there's not enough notch to remove the manual trans drain plug so will have to clearance that which will require removal of the skid. Thinking 'thick metal' blade on the sawzall might work for a half circle cut? Open to suggestions on that one.

Glad you guys posted this up here for reference.

Hope this goes better than I'm imagining.. lol. Wish me luck.
 

NskLJ

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My UCF skid is scheduled to arrive today. I'm going to try and recruit a second pair of hands (and eyes) to help me out with this one.
I'm not 100% but I think the transfer case/tummy tuck skid is Nth Degree. I did notice on that skid that there's not enough notch to remove the manual trans drain plug so will have to clearance that which will require removal of the skid. Thinking 'thick metal' blade on the sawzall might work for a half circle cut? Open to suggestions on that one.

Glad you guys posted this up here for reference.

Hope this goes better than I'm imagining.. lol. Wish me luck.
I just replaced my Nth degree engine and trans skids with a Saavy unit to drop some weigh. The Saavy and UCF skids look identical. I supported it on a jack stand and got the front brackets loosely attached, I drew a line on the t/c skid about 2 3/4” back just so I could eyeball the skid being parallel to the front edge of the t/c skid. I centered the drain plug to the hole and verified clearance at the trans pan (very close) I had to pull the skid down to clearance a little for the exhaust as I have replace cats with weld in ones. I put it back up and drilled one hole put a bolt in it, drilled another put a bolt in it and worked my way down. The far right hole hit the stiffener in the top of the T/c skid and broke my drill. I pulled the T/C skid to remove the bit and modified the stiffener. Bolted it back up done deal.
 
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NOTNSUV

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I just replaced my Nth degree engine and trans skids with a Saavy unit to drop some weigh. The Saavy and UCF skids look identical. I supported it on a jack stand and got the front brackets loosely attached, I drew a line on the t/c skid about 2 3/4” back just so I could eyeball the skid being parallel to the front edge of the t/c skid. I centered the drain plug to the hole and verified clearance at the trans pan (very close) I had to pull the skid down to clearance a little for the exhaust as I have replace cats with weld in ones. I put it back up and drilled one hole put a bolt in it, drilled another put a bolt in it and worked my way down. The far right hole hit the stiffener in the top of the T/c skid and broke my drill. I pulled the T/C skid to remove the bit and modified the stiffener. Bolted it back up done deal.
Guess I'll find out, but wondering if I might have been better off replacing the transfer case skid with the UCF as a match to the engine skid.
Thanks for the heads up.