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UCF engine skid install

NskLJ

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Guess I'll find out, but wondering if I might have been better off replacing the transfer case skid with the UCF as a match to the engine skid.
Thanks for the heads up.
It’s no problem. The stiffener I just cut a 1” section out then welded a piece to the back of the stiffener and that was enough clearance for the nut. You might be able to move the skid a bit forward (1/2” would of worked) but I started on the driver side. Mine is a Saavy also but they look identical. I looked for pictures but I didn’t seem to take any. The Saavy bolt all go side to side, I see now the UCF bolts go front to back. You should be able to drill one in front and 1 in back of the stiffener on the right side.
 
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NOTNSUV

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It’s no problem. The stiffener I just cut a 1” section out then welded a piece to the back of the stiffener and that was enough clearance for the nut. You might be able to move the skid a bit forward (1/2” would of worked) but I started on the driver side. Mine is a Saavy also but they look identical. I looked for pictures but I didn’t seem to take any.
Welding is outsourced at my place. Never learned the skill. But I have people, I hope.;)
 

NskLJ

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Welding is outsourced at my place. Never learned the skill. But I have people, I hope.;)
I did it because I can I don’t think it was really necessary. I also noticed the UCF skid bolt are front to back on either side, you should be able to get the bolt holes on either side of that stiffener, it’s on the right side front
 

NOTNSUV

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This is what I ended up with. Both struts have the flange pointed forward and facing the outside. Both are behind the tab on the mount brackets. This is what produced the least misalignment where the struts mount to the skid plate, YMMV but it matches UCF's website photo posted above (that wasn't in the instructions).

View attachment 302324


View attachment 302325

View attachment 302326
I still haven't started this project. Got distracted by JL lift kit, car hauler rebuild, lousy weather, etc.
I have noticed on my LJ that the front of the TC skid covers the manual trans drain plug about 50%, so think that will need to be clearanced. Cut off wheel, sawzall, plasma cutter? I guess it will all be obvious when I get going.

Any drain plug access issues with this setup pictured?
 
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freedom_in_4low

freedom_in_4low

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I still haven't started this project. Got distracted by JL lift kit, car hauler rebuild, lousy weather, etc.
I have noticed on my LJ that the front of the TC skid covers the manual trans drain plug about 50%, so think that will need to be clearanced. Cut off wheel, sawzall, plasma cutter? I guess it will all be obvious when I get going.

Any drain plug access issues with this setup pictured?

I changed the fluid a couple months before putting the skid on so I haven't even paid attention. I remember having to fashion a cardboard deflector to direct the oil around the skid plate with my AX15 even with the stock skid, so I have that to look forward to with my upcoming AX15 swap.
 
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NOTNSUV

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I changed the fluid a couple months before putting the skid on so I haven't even paid attention. I remember having to fashion a cardboard deflector to direct the oil around the skid plate with my AX15 even with the stock skid, so I have that to look forward to with my upcoming AX15 swap.
I have one of those rubberized flexible oil drain gizmos. Doubt it will be drip free but at least should be able to direct the bulk of the stuff to a pan.
 
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freedom_in_4low

freedom_in_4low

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I have one of those rubberized flexible oil drain gizmos. Doubt it will be drip free but at least should be able to direct the bulk of the stuff to a pan.

I got the stahlbus valve for the engine. It's pretty dang good. I don't think I dropped any in the engine skid. Still got some oil in the floor when the oil from the filter splashed but I don't know how to get away from that other than newspaper on the floor the way my dad used to do it.

The funny thing about the NSG370 drain plug is it's so big that the oil doesn't so much drain as it does fall out.
 

NOTNSUV

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I need to cut the TC skid to uncover the NSG drain plug. I just got a reply from UCF on fitment

"Our engine skid should be easily installable with the Nth tummy tuck. Just drill the 4 holes into the front lower surface of their transfer case skid and bolt it up."

Unseasonably frigid here, including snow, so really pushing all my projects back. Much prefer the overhead doors open instead of the heater running to keep it at 40*F.
 
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freedom_in_4low

freedom_in_4low

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Unseasonably frigid here, including snow, so really pushing all my projects back. Much prefer the overhead doors open instead of the heater running to keep it at 40*F.

ha, I remember that about living in Colorado. Winter of 2020-21 I spent dressed in dickies work clothes over underarmor thermals, in front of a propane space heater, while I built my LJ. Haven't had to break the thermals out here, garage never really gets below 50. A cold front came through here overnight so it's only 60....yesterday was mid 80s.
 

NOTNSUV

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Moved this pic from a new thread I started on my phone. The other can be deleted if you get to it Chris.

First look and actually held the UCF engine skid in place. Guess I'll get the brackets installed loosely and see where it leaves me. Going to b interesting to see if I can clear the exhaust, fit flush on the Nth Degree and still have access to my engine drain, and of course, clear this skid for the trans drain.

Question is whether the Nth Degree has a support role for the NP241?
1652568616939.png
 

NOTNSUV

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If you reference the photo I posted above, it shows the driver side bracket attached with bolts pointing up, which is directly counter to the instructions. I'm out of the garage for holiday festivities now, but when I get back to it I'm gonna have to reverse the rear fastener to relieve this interference which isn't allowing the driver strut to align correctly.

View attachment 298305

If the thinner bolt head doesn't fix it I'll have to take a grinder to the strut.
What did you use to back up the bolts when tightening the nylocks to the frame mounts? Tried a 9/16 end wrench, crowsfoot, flex head ratchet...
It's gotta be simple but escaping me.

Wait a minute... you don't have nylocks on the frame side.. are those only for the long brackets to attach? Sheesh.

EDIT: Using lock washer and nut with mini-Milwaukee impact made it much easier to get snug w/o backup, then simply torque to 33 lb/ft.
I could delete my question but maybe it'll help some other dipshit later on. ;)

And FWIW there were NO printed instructions or pictures in my package and the website .pdf I found is the written word only. You guys and the YouTube video referenced were a big help.
 
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NOTNSUV

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Have you guys installed the UCF with the 6spd NSG370?

I have to further cut the notch in the existing transfer case skid so I'll have access to the NSG370 drain plug (it's covered 50% and the skid actually rests on the plug). There is no access hole in the UCF engine skid for that plug either, and since it overlaps the Nth skid I will need to build a hole.
I'm hoping a hole saw will do the trick. Don't know if a jigsaw will cut 1/4" steel.

Is there access for the automatic with the UCF in place?

As for the UCF skid, the drain hole for the crankcase is offset by an inch at least when I get the skid in the position it likes, so I'll need to modify that hole as well. Currently I see no way to get the plug out and looks like no way the Stahlbus Oil Drain will fit in that space. The skid is offset 1" from center as well when snugged up with a bottle jack, narrowly clearing exhaust up front and all, so no real wiggle room for adjustment. Looks to be factory exhaust under there.

PO stated there was MML but I'm not convinced. I see nothing that looks other than stock MM, but then I've never looked at either stock or MML. It does have tummy tuck and BL and I've had no issues with the fan or such.

I think I can live with it once I cut some holes but wanted to check here before I commit and fk up a new part. Triple checked the mounting brackets here and on the YouTube video. All I did differently is put the rear most driver's side bolt in from the bottom with locktite instead of a lock washer, for clearance of the long bracket and nut.

Orrrr... just don't hit any rocks.

I'll edit with a couple pics.
Drain plug bottom right by the black marks.
Reversed bolt on left side driver.

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PXL_20220518_003811207.jpg

Apologies for the photo overload. Figured someone might ask for the one I didn't include 😜
 
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freedom_in_4low

freedom_in_4low

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Have you guys installed the UCF with the 6spd NSG370?

I have to further cut the notch in the existing transfer case skid so I'll have access to the NSG370 drain plug (it's covered 50% and the skid actually rests on the plug). There is no access hole in the UCF engine skid for that plug either, and since it overlaps the Nth skid I will need to build a hole.
I'm hoping a hole saw will do the trick. Don't know if a jigsaw will cut 1/4" steel.

Is there access for the automatic with the UCF in place?

As for the UCF skid, the drain hole for the crankcase is offset by an inch at least when I get the skid in the position it likes, so I'll need to modify that hole as well. Currently I see no way to get the plug out and looks like no way the Stahlbus Oil Drain will fit in that space. The skid is offset 1" from center as well when snugged up with a bottle jack, narrowly clearing exhaust up front and all, so no real wiggle room for adjustment. Looks to be factory exhaust under there.

PO stated there was MML but I'm not convinced. I see nothing that looks other than stock MM, but then I've never looked at either stock or MML. It does have tummy tuck and BL and I've had no issues with the fan or such.

I think I can live with it once I cut some holes but wanted to check here before I commit and fk up a new part. Triple checked the mounting brackets here and on the YouTube video. All I did differently is put the rear most driver's side bolt in from the bottom with locktite instead of a lock washer, for clearance of the long bracket and nut.

Orrrr... just don't hit any rocks.

I'll edit with a couple pics.
Drain plug bottom right by the black marks.
Reversed bolt on left side driver.

View attachment 331203

View attachment 331204

View attachment 331205

View attachment 331215

View attachment 331216

View attachment 331217

View attachment 331218

View attachment 331219

View attachment 331220

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View attachment 331223
Apologies for the photo overload. Figured someone might ask for the one I didn't include 😜
I considered the engine oil drain hole as a constraint for the skid location, so I played with how the struts mounted until that lined up and I liked the rest of it.

I have UCF engine skid with UCF extra clearance trans skid. I expected to remove the engine skid for transmission oil changes. I don't recall where my trans skid was in relation to the nsg370 drain plug... I changed it right before installing the skid and I just did my Ax15 swap so now I don't know. Even if it aligned that way though, I'm pretty sure I had more space. Are you running a low pro mount?

Here's a photo I have on hand with the AX15 without engine skid.

PXL_20220515_184413438.jpg
 
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NOTNSUV

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I considered the engine oil drain hole as a constraint for the skid location, so I played with how the struts mounted until that lined up and I liked the rest of it.
That's my plan for today's exercise.
I guess exact position isn't critical if there's no interference. I expected bolt up and go..ha.
I have UCF engine skid with UCF extra clearance trans skid. I expected to remove the engine skid for transmission oil changes.
That'd be no big deal at 30k intervals after I clearance the xfer skid for access.
I don't recall where my trans skid was in relation to the nsg370 drain plug... I changed it right before installing the skid and I just did my Ax15 swap so now I don't know. Even if it aligned that way though, I'm pretty sure I had more space. Are you running a low pro mount?
Records from PO show trans was done 6000 miles ago at 24,000 with Mopar fluid along with transfer case, cooling system flush, etc. Was thinking I'd put MTL in but with the scheduled maintenance at 30k, why bother.
I don't know about lowpro or what I have. Nth* tummy tuck is all I know.
Here's a photo I have on hand with the AX15 without engine skid.

View attachment 331270
Assuming you have a writeup on the AX15 swap. Hopefully I'll never need it 🙂