Uncaged's long overdue maintenance and build thread

[Uncaged]

New to the forum and new to Jeeps. This Wrangler is my first even though I've been wanting one for decades. Why did I wait so long?

This one is a stock 2002 Sahara with 4.0 and automatic. The interior looks immaculate, it has a new top (and I have already corrected the poor installation), stock 30x9.5-15 tires and suspension, and the paint looks good in most places. Maintenance may be another issue. This is my "daily driver", of sorts. If I am solo I will almost always reach for my helmet and motorcycle keys. But when four wheels, A/C or a roof are required... this is it.

First, a few photos.

I have done a lot of research on this forum since I purchased the Wrangler and answered many questions. However, here is one that I have not found. Below are pictures of either bump stops or maybe Jounce bumpers. Either way they no longer look serviceable.


Front

Rear

I am considering the 2" suspension lift that @CodaMan and @Chris put together on this thread. Affordable but quality lift I would prefer to fix everything connected to the lift while I am installing it rather than taking it apart later after ordering more parts.

Your help is greatly appreciated.

 

[Chris]

You need new jounce bumpers:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016J1CW0E/?tag=wranglerorg-20

 

[Uncaged]

You need new jounce bumpers:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016J1CW0E/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Thank you, @Chris. I have learned something new; but it leaves me with more questions.

1. Is the Jounce bumper mounted to the bottom of the bumpstop?
2. Would a bumpstop extension, bolted to the bottom spring perch, be required if I installed a 2" suspension lift?
3. Would the extension be required if I installed larger, 31" tires?

 

[Chris]

Thank you, @Chris. I have learned something new; but it leaves me with more questions.

1. Is the Jounce bumper mounted to the bottom of the bumpstop?
2. Would a bumpstop extension, bolted to the bottom spring perch, be required if I installed a 2" suspension lift?
3. Would the extension be required if I installed larger, 31" tires?

The jounce bumper is pushed in to the bottom of the jounce cup. That is not a bump stop at all. True bump stop is added on the lower spring perch.

Yes, you’ll need to add some amount of bump stop to the lower spring perch if you add a 2” lift and larger tires. No one can tell you exactly how much as it varies from vehicle to vehicle. You have to cycle your suspension to determine that.

 

[Uncaged]

It just dawned on me that the 2" lift will only raise the skid plates/undercarriage and not the differentials. Only tires raise the diffs, and 31" tires will only raise them 1/2". I was thinking independent suspension.

On the bright side, new springs and shocks will improve the ride quality.

 

[Uncaged]

Installed the 2" lift yesterday; it basically was a straightforward install. The only problem we ran into was installing the driver's side rear spring which was actually the first that we installed on the rear. Surprisingly, the passenger's side went in easily, without compression, after the driver's side had been installed. We also aligned the front end... incorrectly, with the front end supported by the frame.

Overall, it rides much better. A smoother ride without wandering. I'm not sure that I need to drop the transfer case. There is a little vibration around 35-40 mph but it goes away at faster speeds. This is so subtle it feels like the knobs on mud tires (just not present below 35 and I have AT tires).

I really like the new look. Subtle but better. I'm not sure if I will go with 31x10.50s or 265/75R15s. Wider would be nice for flotation in the sugar sand.

Before:

After:

 

[Uncaged]

I have noticed that on some faster turns that the inside front tire squeals a little. That would be the front right tire on a right hand turn. This did not happen before the lift and alignment. Toe-in should be 1/16-1/8 inch, correct? Body roll seems minimal, could it be unloading that tire a little too much?

EDIT: I was looking over the alignment thread again and noticed that I missed a critical point. I still had the Jeep supported by the frame when I adjusted the alignment. I will fix this tomorrow before I drive it again, this time supporting the axle. Hopefully that is the problem.

 

[Uncaged]

Note: refer to procedures, not memory, when performing maintenance that you haven't done a hundred times. Reset the alignment this morning, this time with the axle on jack stands; 1/8" toe in.

Also made another attempt to center the steering wheel. This part seems to be more trial and error for me at this point. Centered the steering wheel, test drive showed it off to the left. Re-centered the wheel and it was to the right as I moved the jeep into the carport. Re-centered again, but the front tires look to be turned slightly to the right so I may be off again when I drive it next. Oh well, one day I will get it right.

 

[Vasq]

Note: refer to procedures, not memory, when performing maintenance that you haven't done a hundred times. Reset the alignment this morning, this time with the axle on jack stands; 1/8" toe in.

Also made another attempt to center the steering wheel. This part seems to be more trial and error for me at this point. Centered the steering wheel, test drive showed it off to the left. Re-centered the wheel and it was to the right as I moved the jeep into the carport. Re-centered again, but the front tires look to be turned slightly to the right so I may be off again when I drive it next. Oh well, one day I will get it right.

same for me. took me like 5 tries to get the wheel centered enough to satisfy my OCD

 

[Uncaged]

After installing the lift I am noticing vibrations. However, first, I am not sure if they were there before; and second, they are not consistent. Worst vibes are on deceleration around 55 mph but not every time. Minor vibes during acceleration from around 35 to 45 mph and maybe cruising at around 60... sometimes. It could be the tires which are getting close to needing replacement.

My research on this forum also has me considering a motor mount lift as opposed to the transfer case drop. My wheeling is minor and either would likely be okay. Of course, I may have been bitten by the "lift bug" because along with the MML would be the installation of a body lift.

The sensible solution is to install the TC drop kit sitting on the workbench in my garage. This would tell me of the vibrations are from the drive line and not take money away from purchasing tires. Then save up for the MML and BL, removing the TC drop at that time.

Rabbit trails complete we can get to my question. If the lift created new drive line vibrations, would they be consistent or come and go like electrical problems?

 

[Nickgsjeep]

After installing the lift I am noticing vibrations. However, first, I am not sure if they were there before; and second, they are not consistent. Worst vibes are on deceleration around 55 mph but not every time. Minor vibes during acceleration from around 35 to 45 mph and maybe cruising at around 60... sometimes. It could be the tires which are getting close to needing replacement.

My research on this forum also has me considering a motor mount lift as opposed to the transfer case drop. My wheeling is minor and either would likely be okay. Of course, I may have been bitten by the "lift bug" because along with the MML would be the installation of a body lift.

The sensible solution is to install the TC drop kit sitting on the workbench in my garage. This would tell me of the vibrations are from the drive line and not take money away from purchasing tires. Then save up for the MML and BL, removing the TC drop at that time.

Rabbit trails complete we can get to my question. If the lift created new drive line vibrations, would they be consistent or come and go like electrical problems?

Nice jeep and welcome to the forum. When I lifted my jeep for the first time about 2.5 inches, I did what you’re thinking to check the vibes. I lowered the T case skid about 3/4 of an inch and the vibes went away. Shortly after I ordered a 1 inch body lift, 1 inch motor mount lift, double cardan rear drive shaft and sye, once all was installed I removed the T case drop and had no vibes. Subtle vibes can be caused by various things, for example tires not being balanced. But if you didn’t have vibes before the lift and now you do a safe easy test is to get some washers from the hardware store and drop the T case skid. If the vibes are gone you have a good starting point. There’s other ways to snuff out vibes like pulling drive shafts and whatnot but at 2 inches if it were me I’d start with a slight T case drop.

 

[Uncaged]

Nice jeep and welcome to the forum.

Thank you!

But if you didn’t have vibes before ... if it were me I’d start with a slight T case drop.

Your advice made me take a closer look at my T-Case and skid plate. It looks like there is more than a 1" gap between the TC and the skid. Theoretically I could drop the TC and not lose clearance. Does this sound correct?

Also, the rear driveshaft looks pretty straight so I really suspect my tires are the culprit.

 

[Nickgsjeep]

Thank you!

Your advice made me take a closer look at my T-Case and skid plate. It looks like there is more than a 1" gap between the TC and the skid. Theoretically I could drop the TC and not lose clearance. Does this sound correct?

Also, the rear driveshaft looks pretty straight so I really suspect my tires are the culprit.

If you’re thinking it’s tires, get them balanced first.

as for the T case skid, your Transfer case is attached to your transmission and your transmission mount is attached to the skid. There are 6 bolts holding the skid to the frame. If you get some longer bolts and put some washers/spacers in between the skid and the frame you will be lowering not only the skid but the transfer case as well changing the angle of the driveshaft.

there are low profile transmission mounts out there that do a similar job of lowering the transfer case without lowering the skid but I have not used one with a stock skid

 

[Irun]

Great that you are getting to finally experience the Jeep life. If it sticks, it's life altering!

 

[Uncaged]

Great that you are getting to finally experience the Jeep life. If it sticks, it's life altering!

Jeep life is better and more addicting than Miata life but still no replacement for my motorcycles. I owned my Miata for 6.5 years (twice as long as any other 4 wheeled transport) and thought that it was the best alternative; a four-wheeled motorcycle of sorts. The Jeep is far better than the Miata because it is just as open and does things the Miata just could not do. I think that the TJ must be the most uncage-like street-legal, all-weather, multi-function "cage" out there.

 

[Uncaged]

If you’re thinking it’s tires, get them balanced first.

as for the T case skid, your Transfer case is attached to your transmission and your transmission mount is attached to the skid. There are 6 bolts holding the skid to the frame. If you get some longer bolts and put some washers/spacers in between the skid and the frame you will be lowering not only the skid but the transfer case as well changing the angle of the driveshaft.

there are low profile transmission mounts out there that do a similar job of lowering the transfer case without lowering the skid but I have not used one with a stock skid

Would out of balance tires vibrate and then not? Or would they just get worse as speed increases?

Six bolts hold on the skid plate you say. That matches the number of spaces and bolts in the lowering kit on my workbench.

Well, I have confidence that we will get this straightened out soon enough.

 

[Uncaged]

I put 5 ounces of balancing beads in each of the tires and went for a 100 mile drive. Even though the ride was smoother, as beads do, the vibes at 35-45 and 55-65 are still there (on and off). I'll install the T-case drop next and see if that makes a difference.

 

[Uncaged]

I believe that I have ruled out driveline trouble. Installed the T-case drop, no change. Then I removed it, raising the skid to regain that clearance. I also checked steering linkage and rotated the tires. The steering linkage looks tight, we will see if rotating the tires does anything. The tires seem evenly worn like they had regular 4-tire rotations, so it may not change anything. But I know how worn AT tires can act on-road so we may not know until I can afford 5 new tires.

 

[Uncaged]

After rotating the tires the steering wheel shake was worse, constant between 53 and 60 mph. It would settle down on either side of that range. Completed another rotation so that the wheels from the front were back on the front but on opposite sides and it settled down to shaking sometimes and not as violent. This is basically how it was before the first tire rotation.

Dropped tire pressure to 26 psi and it is behaving.

 

[Uncaged]

Found a set of four slightly used 31" tires and mounted them up. I like the look better (no pic yet due to rain) but it kind of looks stock again, only a little taller.

Steering wheel shake changed a little. Less shake but starts at 48 mph and runs up to about 60, very minor above 60. I think it is in the steering system but cannot find it. More research is needed to determine where and how to check.