Upgrading Dana 35 to Rubicon Dana 44: How to connect Tru-Lok?

SteveBarrus

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Hello my first Jeep I just got from my neighbor. 1998 Sport, open axels, I am swapping the Dana 35 for a Rubicon Dana 44, 4.10 with tru-lok. After swap what will I need to do to get tru-lok connected up. Got a matching front with 4.10 limited slip.

Thanks
 
Basically you need a pair of Rubicon air pumps, a pair of switches to control the air pumps, and rubber air lines. The lockers run on 5 psi so a standard air compressor puts out too much air pressure. A regulator can in theory reduce it down to the required 5 psi but in practice it's hard to find a regulator that could do that accurately and consistently.
 
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There is a part # out there for the same exact compressor but it comes from a Kia. May be the easiest way to get a compressor as rubi parts are hard to find.

EDIT: part # 510303E100

IIRC, the pink wire on my compressor was not used.
 
There is a part # out there for the same exact compressor but it comes from a Kia. May be the easiest way to get a compressor as rubi parts are hard to find.

EDIT: part # 510303E100.
Have you found a reasonably priced source for those? Every search I've done for those produced $250 and up pricing. I paid $50 for my used Rubicon compressor.
 
Have you found a reasonably priced source for those? Every search I've done for those produced $250 and up pricing. I paid $50 for my used Rubicon compressor.

Ouch. I didn't even look at price as I have been using an ARB setup for the last couple years. $250 ain't cheap, I sold my one OE compressor for $90
 
Ouch. I didn't even look at price as I have been using an ARB setup for the last couple years. $250 ain't cheap, I sold my one OE compressor for $90
I'm seeing Sorrentos at the local U Pull yards. I don't know what they are charging for the pump, though.
 
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I am getting ready to do the Rubicon Dana 44 swap. My axle arrived this past week and it looks fresh with little to no rust. I am cleaning it up, repainting it and will install this week. WOO HOO. The bonuses are its a Rubicon axle with air locker, it has disk brakes, low mileage, bolt in.

In the process I found a 4.10 locked Cherokee HP Dana 30 e-locker 91,000 miles for the front almost free, so my 235000 mile LP open dana 30 is coming out also. This will be getting refreshed with Alloy USA Front Axle Manual Locking Hub Conversion Kit, Vanco 16" Big Brake Kit.

The rest of the build I will be rebuilding a dana 300 I have been saving for this. It is getting Behemoth flip kit, JB Conversions 32 spline front & rear and 4-to-1 Low-Max gears joining with the AA flip ring and dual cable shifters. Hopefully this will give me flat abbs with a lot more belly clearance.

to finish it up new drive-lines from DriveLinesNW. I will start a page to track this build and post photos as I go.
 
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Basically you need a pair of Rubicon air pumps, a pair of switches to control the air pumps, and rubber air lines. The lockers run on 5 psi so a standard air compressor puts out too much air pressure. A regulator can in theory reduce it down to the required 5 psi but in practice it's hard to find a regulator that could do that accurately and consistently.
Jerry- after closer inspection this TJ Rubicon Dana 44 has an e-locker. Will I need a relay to power it?

Thank you
 
Jerry- after closer inspection this TJ Rubicon Dana 44 has an e-locker. Will I need a relay to power it?
That depends on how you wire it. Personally I'm a believer in the KISS principle and will only wire in a relay if it's absolutely needed. That locker normally uses a relay, that's how Eaton designed it. A relay allows smaller gauge wiring between the switch and relay and only require a larger gauge wire between the relay and locker.

You can wire it that way or you can use a larger gauge wire throughout like 12-14 gauge and a good heavy-duty on-off switch and eliminate the need for the relay. Of course both of those possibilities should be fused.

You can think of wiring the locker like wiring a 12 volt light bulb. Give it a source of 12 volts controlled by an on-off switch and it'll work fine.
 
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That depends on how you wire it. Personally I'm a believer in the KISS principle and will only wire in a relay if it's absolutely needed. That locker normally uses a relay, that's how Eaton designed it. A relay allows smaller gauge wiring between the switch and relay and only require a larger gauge wire between the relay and locker.

You can wire it that way or you can use a larger gauge wire throughout like 12-14 gauge and a good heavy-duty on-off switch and eliminate the need for the relay. Of course both of those possibilities should be fused.

You can think of wiring the locker like wiring a 12 volt light bulb. Give it a source of 12 volts controlled by an on-off switch and it'll work fine.
Excellent. Thank you. Now I have a 5psi compressor to sell. Cart was in front of the horse. Lol