I read through some of this thread, but not all of it, so likely some of my musings may have been addressed and I apologize for that. I am not in a huge hurry, but I haven't been impressed with my system at all since its installation. Is it better than stock? Yeah of course but that was an extremely low bar. Problem is it isn't nearly enough better than stock sans the bass upgrade.
My setup:
Alpine CDE-HD149BT [in general I like this headunit except for the i-pod controls which suck if you have a large collection like I do. I also use an old ipod 80gb as my main source]
Alpine MRX-V70 5 channel amp which I installed up under the steering column thanks to this forum...took some work, but got it done
Polk Audio db5251 meh! I am very underwhelmed, seriously lacking a natural midrange, specifically somewhere in the most critical vocal region something is seriously off. The tonal balance is really off, but some part of it is definitely the stock locations create a LP filter, and I used "I forget the name but mounts for the tweeters down low" which was against my intuition and turns out to be an utter fail. These are in Select Increments Dash Pods btw, with a little polywool.
Polk Audio db651s These I put in the sound bar and they are pretty good for that as far as I can tell, but I need to turn the balance way down unless I just want a wall of sound or hear the one closest to my head mostly. Still I feel with only those running the midrange is still off. I really want to see some good 3rd party measurements of these speakers, I think they won't look that good.
Alpine SWS-10D2 I modeled this sub many times in various applications and I knew it was going to do the job. The nice thing about bass is the wavelengths are such you can use models and they are dead on. No need to guess, no need for hyperbole, the models tell all.
Box started out as a Sound Ordinance BB1075V which is bang on for car bass IMO, but it won't fit behind the TJ's rear seat, which I wasn't using when I bought it. I recently ordered another type of dual 10" box off ebay, which I don't really like for usage reasons (it rubs against the rear door/window and squeaks nonstop), but it works for fit and the bass is decent if not as low (again the model shows that).
[tangent about where I am coming from]
FWIW, I am not a bass head, more of a metal head of late, but I don't use metal to test a system (maybe Porcupine Tree, Meshuggah or Opeth). My background is in applied math and I am a former [re-formed] audiophile. I spent years studying sound reproduction, acoustics, speaker design, amp building and visited some top industry folks' homes. I don't claim to have golden ears at all, but listening is a discipline that requires training. Once trained it is hard to ignore things that are glaring to you.
I don't really focus on soundstage/imaging, as that is a more of a listening illusion of sorts and pretty tall order for a car where you are seated too close to the front speakers and way too far off center, but I want tonal balance to replicate what is suppose to be, that is my primary concern. When discs I listen to all the time on 3 or 4 other systems including headphones sound pretty similar and the Jeep's system sounds vastly different, that is a tell tale sign. For reference I am using JBL M2s in my home, which is also what is used in most of the mixing studios that I personally visited.
[/end tangent]
I am not dissing the Polks, but I am not really impressed either. I thought they were going to be a big upgrade AFAIC they really weren't much. A little clearer (aka less distortion), a little louder, maybe a bit more midbass but the midrange still sucks IMO. It just isn't clear and neutral sounding. Hard to put in words what one hears so another person can relate. I think there are at least 3 things holding this back in my 'guesstimation':
1) the tweeter down low just simply does not work. I can't even see more than a third of either of the tweeter in the driver's position, which means all the HFs are refracted. That is a *HUGE* no-no in all things hi-fi, as this is the presence region where we pick up all on spatial cues. I get the creator of these door hinge brackets thought they were cleverly getting past the fact that one is way too close while the other is far so putting them low levels the distance some, but this created at least 4 more problems than it fixed.
This is first on the list to get corrected. I have been browsing for tweeter pods, and just saw a couple pages back some reasonably priced ones on ebay, thanks for that.
2) the stock front speaker position is simply not good for upper midrange. The volume of space in front of the speaker combined with the small area of the slots versus the area of the cone creates a mathematically predictable low pass filter and almost certainly what is putting my ear hairs on edge. I posit this is a relatively big acoustic issue created worse by those of use who are 'upgrading' to 5" speaker in the stock place, which is increases the compression between the slot area and the woofer area.
I've even kicked around putting a 3" and tweeter on top of the dash in a pod, ala Versa pod as a way to circumvent the issue, which is probably would. If your amp has a HPF like mine then you can put another lower mid 5" in the stock spot to help them out.
3) I think in general car speakers are overpriced versus their competition in other circles. I think audiophile speaker drivers are as well, but pro-audio drivers if you know how to make crossovers (I do a bit) as hugely more cost effective. When it comes to a 3" driver the Faital Pro 3FE22 is on my radar. Seems the ticket.
Anyway, I am not in a hurry to solve anything, but thought I'd toss quite a bit of things into the discussion. And for the record, I am not trying to diss anyone's pride and joy and all that, just that I think it can go quite a bit further without much more if we take the time to think it through.
** I use my hardtop year-round.