Upgrading the sound system on your Jeep Wrangler TJ
- Thread starter Chris
- Start date
there’s too much open space in the dash to stuff polyfill in, so whichever speaker you get be sure you can get a baffle. That is assuming you want to hear them at all, the acoustics of the TJ dash are non-existent.
So is the easiest solution to buy oval speakers for the front and use those baffles made out of matting shown above? I'm not hearing a simple solution for putting round speakers in the front.
I bought the same polks for front and rear (DB522) with these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T1AB28Y/?tag=wranglerorg-20
it’s expensive but after running without any baffles vs those - worlds of difference. I can’t speak to the foam baffles.
This is what I ended up doing. Bought all four round speakers and the baffles. Waiting on all items to arrive tomorrow so I can install them.
I’ve purchased the Polk DB522 x4. Now I am slightly confused.
Ideally I’d want to retain the stock head unit, but I am willing to add a 4 channel amp to power up the dash and soundbar speakers.
Also, I want to buy the Kicker 6.75” subwoofer for the centre console, along with a kicker mono amp. Im uncertain of which I need to buy since the Amazon links are not working for me. Do I need a 1ohm or 2ohm voice coil subwoofer in order to wire it to a mono amp? And will the Kicker 42PXA2001 amp work regardless of me buying a 1ohm or 2ohm voice coil sub?
Ideally I’d want to retain the stock head unit, but I am willing to add a 4 channel amp to power up the dash and soundbar speakers.
Also, I want to buy the Kicker 6.75” subwoofer for the centre console, along with a kicker mono amp. Im uncertain of which I need to buy since the Amazon links are not working for me. Do I need a 1ohm or 2ohm voice coil subwoofer in order to wire it to a mono amp? And will the Kicker 42PXA2001 amp work regardless of me buying a 1ohm or 2ohm voice coil sub?
I'm in the process of changing my setup a little. Whether you plan to install a external amplifier with or without an aftermarket head unit, or retain the factory radio, you can get impressive sound from a set of $40-60 speakers. The most important thing is matching the speakers to your plan. The problem with the more advertised mid-range woofers and tweeters is with their power handling. When you buy a pair of these speakers, the max power handling of each one will be far beyond any head unit's capabilities. So, the end result is poor sound quality, low volume, and/or damaged speakers that results from distortion. This same thing happens at audio shops. When you tell them your plan is to retain the factory head unit or use an aftermarket head unit only, they'll likely set you up with a pair of speakers with capabilities that may never be met. The closest match will be a low cost and low quality speaker, but still much more expensive than other options. You can go to Parts Express online and find a whole lot of options to go this route. Another good thing with this route is that you can buy speakers individually.
Simply throwing more power and sound processing to the factory Infinity speakers was a huge improvement. But, I've recently installed a pair of FaitalPRO speakers in the front pods. I have been very impressed with the sound quality. Combining those with sound processing from the head unit has them in a tight race with $300+ dollar component sets and external amplifiers I've installed in the past. The tweeters I replaced with a pair of Dayton Audio tweeters. Powering the FaitalPRO speakers with the aftermarket head unit worked exceptionally well and really is the smarter route.
If any of you are still running the factory pods, simply cutting out an area on the backside will improve the sound a lot. It changes the sound from being localized to the lower dash, to sounding like there are speakers installed along the top of the dash too.
Simply throwing more power and sound processing to the factory Infinity speakers was a huge improvement. But, I've recently installed a pair of FaitalPRO speakers in the front pods. I have been very impressed with the sound quality. Combining those with sound processing from the head unit has them in a tight race with $300+ dollar component sets and external amplifiers I've installed in the past. The tweeters I replaced with a pair of Dayton Audio tweeters. Powering the FaitalPRO speakers with the aftermarket head unit worked exceptionally well and really is the smarter route.
If any of you are still running the factory pods, simply cutting out an area on the backside will improve the sound a lot. It changes the sound from being localized to the lower dash, to sounding like there are speakers installed along the top of the dash too.
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Btw, that's a nice setup you're running, Chris. Polk makes some awesome sounding speakers. I looked up the rear speakers. Man, 55Hz from a 5.25 is impressive! I bet that setup does sound awesome. I've been contemplating on running the Kicker sub in the console. Just haven't pulled the trigger. How much of a difference is it from the stock sub?
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OP
No, I sold the TJ, but I never regretted it. Sounded absolutely amazing and I would change nothing if I had to do it again.
Hey was just wondering if that is a double din stereo head unit. If so where did you find the dash bezzle that is silver that fits it? Thanks
The head unit is a single din chassis with a double din face. I used this double din kit from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y493WRN/?tag=wranglerorg-20
The bezel comes unpainted black plastic. My LJ came factory with silver bezels and I'd already repainted them with some rattlecan silver as they were a bit scratched up when I got it. Still had some left over so I used that on the new double din bezel. It's not a perfect match for the original shade of silver, but it's close.
I still had to remove that original radio back brace from inside the dash, but managed to avoid cutting out the support between the radio and heater controls. With the single din stereo chassis, I could trim the lower portion of the mounts from the kit to clear that support without cutting it out.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y493WRN/?tag=wranglerorg-20
The bezel comes unpainted black plastic. My LJ came factory with silver bezels and I'd already repainted them with some rattlecan silver as they were a bit scratched up when I got it. Still had some left over so I used that on the new double din bezel. It's not a perfect match for the original shade of silver, but it's close.
I still had to remove that original radio back brace from inside the dash, but managed to avoid cutting out the support between the radio and heater controls. With the single din stereo chassis, I could trim the lower portion of the mounts from the kit to clear that support without cutting it out.
These are the baffles I used with my Polk 4x6s, they came right out once I heard the lack of bass and the boxes went
Hey guys, I found this thread about a month ago and purchased the exact list of components from the initial post (for his Christmas present) but I did not get the head unit. My sons jeep came with a boss aftermarket head unit that I will be using. His jeep does have the factory installed subwoofer in the armrest. I believe I can handle swapping out the front and sound bar speakers and probably even the sub. My question is, how do I wire up the amp from the head unit and to the sub. I may have overlooked The information in this thread. I have never worked on stereo components other than swapping out a pair of speakers
Is the stock sub working now? If so, no rewiring should be necessary if you're using it.
I'm still running the stock sub in the console with my aftermarket head unit and aftermarket speakers in the dash and roll bar sound pods. I just used the wire harness adapter that came with the install kit which connects to the stock speaker and sub wiring. Both aftermarket head units I've used have had the subwoofer working great without having to wire it separately.
The harness adapters are easy enough to find. Even WalMart has them in their automotive section if you don't want to mess with an online purchase. Just maker sure it's for your year model Jeep and wire it up to the headunit, then plug it into the stock connector.
Yes, the stock sub is working now, I was just going to replace it with the aftermarket one. I guess my question is where do I wire in the amp? I am assuming it is wired between the head unit and subwoofer so I was wondering about the wiring
Airjunky
TJ Enthusiast
It's pretty simple. The Kicker amp is low enough draw (15A) that you can use an add-a-circuit in the fuse box behind the glovebox rather than going directly to the battery. I mounted it on the firewall near the fusebox. Wires to the sub run thru the center console. And then RCA wires to the head unit. Done.
OK, I think that clears it up. I’m sure it will be easier to understand once I actually tear things apart to see yet. Does it matter which fuse I connect the add a fuse to? Does it need to be something controlled by the key?
Airjunky
TJ Enthusiast
I used the fuse for the rear window washer/wiper since I only have a soft top. Or there is a fuse for the factory sub amp too. Both are on/off with the key.