Using impact wrench on rear shock bolts

Back to the original topic though, WHEN would you use an impact wrench? My understanding was it was great at busting rusted bolts loose due to the impact, but people still seem to prefer to go by hand for iffy situations .

And when you did, would you go full blast to start or start on low? This wrench in particular has a ton of torque, whereas my last topped out at around 450 lbs on paper, so just wondering if I should go easy or let'r rip.

i will use an electric impact in certain situations but using one for me is alot like wearing a condom...you lose alot of the "feel" for what you are doing. Loosening the bolts by hand will give you more of a "feel" as to what the bolt wants to do.
 
I'm assuming your talking about the 1/2" not 3/8s from Milwaukee based on price? The shear strength of that tool on the small 13mm? (I think) shock nuts will tear those bad boys off instantly. You won't have any feel for them, perhaps the 3/8s would be better suited for this application but still.

For the guys talking about sticking a dremel up there, they make it sound like you have all the space in the world, which you don't. I had 2 out of the 4 break on me on my 97 TJ, what a nightmare to get up in there from below to cut, or just "twist" of the nuts as everyone says. Perhaps if you have a body lift its easier access from the side, but not if your stock.

Also, mix yourself some 50/50 Transmission Fluid and Acetone - this stuff is the bees knees of DIY. Only thing that took 4 exhaust flange bolts off on my BMW, these bad boys are some crusty!

exhaust.jpg
 
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Have a bottle mixed up already, but still always found myself reaching for the PB or Liquid wrench for ease of use.

Yes to 1/2" tool

No to body lift, 4" suspension lift.

I guess the wrench has some smarts built into it where it will sense something and slow down to not shear, but not the bolts I want to test it out on...
 
Have a bottle mixed up already, but still always found myself reaching for the PB or Liquid wrench for ease of use.

Yes to 1/2" tool

No to body lift, 4" suspension lift.

I guess the wrench has some smarts built into it where it will sense something and slow down to not shear, but not the bolts I want to test it out on...

Btw, thanks for the advice everyone. If changing lugnuts is all this wrench is good for maybe I made a mistake 😅

Well, your in Massachusetts, so a rust belt just like myself. Take your new tool and go to town. Have your backup plan ready as you will need it :) Gives you a chance to test your tool as I know that one probably has the electronic settings and at the same time you'll get you play MacGyver once they snap :D
 
I'm assuming your talking about the 1/2" not 3/8s from Milwaukee based on price? The shear strength of that tool on the small 13mm? (I think) shock nuts will tear those bad boys off instantly. You won't have any feel for them, perhaps the 3/8s would be better suited for this application but still.

For the guys talking about sticking a dremel up there, they make it sound like you have all the space in the world, which you don't. I had 2 out of the 4 break on me on my 97 TJ, what a nightmare to get up in there from below to cut, or just "twist" of the nuts as everyone says. Perhaps if you have a body lift its easier access from the side, but not if your stock.

Also, mix yourself some 50/50 Transmission Fluid and Acetone - this stuff is the bees knees of DIY. Only thing that took 4 exhaust flange bolts off on my BMW, these bad boys are some crusty!


There's plenty of room, even with no body lift.

Stick dremal in hole, cut nut off, put bolt in from the top. Your making this way harder than it needs to be.
 
There's plenty of room, even with no body lift.

Stick dremal in hole, cut nut off, put bolt in from the top. Your making this way harder than it needs to be.

Not really. A few down is another thread of some dude that snapped his, can’t get anything up in there and cut access holes from rear. As they say, every Jeep is different.
 
There's a 3in+ hole where the shock goes.

How does the dremel bit not fit through a 3 in hole?
 
Put the dremel up through the hole where the shock normaly sits.

No need to cut holes in the body.
After I read your post I had a Homer Simpson moment! Doh! Should have tried this first. Hopefully there will not be a next time. Used lots of anti-seize on the new bolts and the replacement bolt.
 
I do allot of work on old rusty cast pieces with frozen bolts. Impact is your best bet by far to remove a rusted fastener. Without experience you can easily overdo it and you will end up with a broken fastener quick but better than just pushing until it gives. Fact is if you feel a fastener "give" doing it by hand you are done, it is busted so you aren't really feeling for anything useful other than it breaking and like I said at that point it's all over anyway. Using a good impact tool on the lowest setting you can tolerate for the longest time possible is what I've had the best luck with.

Removing relatively soft truss head screws in cast steel burners the difference is massive. By hand you can easily maul the screw and break the head off, it's almost impossible to get anywhere without seriously damaging the fastener. With an impact gun most of the time the screw comes out with minimal damage to the head. I get that some people want to feel what's happening but you aren't doing yourself any favors.

Heat is obviously important too but I get that you have to keep within your own comfort zone with respect to a torch.
 
I do allot of work on old rusty cast pieces with frozen bolts. Impact is your best bet by far to remove a rusted fastener. Without experience you can easily overdo it and you will end up with a broken fastener quick but better than just pushing until it gives. Fact is if you feel a fastener "give" doing it by hand you are done, it is busted so you aren't really feeling for anything useful other than it breaking and like I said at that point it's all over anyway. Using a good impact tool on the lowest setting you can tolerate for the longest time possible is what I've had the best luck with.

Removing relatively soft truss head screws in cast steel burners the difference is massive. By hand you can easily maul the screw and break the head off, it's almost impossible to get anywhere without seriously damaging the fastener. With an impact gun most of the time the screw comes out with minimal damage to the head. I get that some people want to feel what's happening but you aren't doing yourself any favors.

Heat is obviously important too but I get that you have to keep within your own comfort zone with respect to a torch.


These were my thoughts, too.

Almost tempted to pull out the weaker air one first to give it impact before I pull out the big gun.

Also now tempted to trade in the massive one for a mod torque model, seems more applicable for 95 percent of the situations ..