Using LEDs in the front fender side-markers on a Jeep Wrangler TJ

Ok, so if I buy 3 wire bulbs, how do I wire them to the 2 wires that go to the existing marker bulbs?
There should be a wire each for the turn signal and running light. The 3rd wire is a ground wire, and should be run to bare metal somewhere on the body. There's a ground screw located on the backside of the front clip just above the holes for the headlights that is pretty convenient.
 
Hi guys,

Sorry to resurrect a dead threat, and I apologise if this is a stupid question. Just about every thread I have found discussing LED replacement of indicators references DRL. In Australia our turn signals are for that purpose only. They do not function as DRLs at all. Would this modification be required if there is no DRL functionality?
 
Needed new front fenders, installed Smittybuilt xrc fenders and switched to LED blinkers and markers. Now after complete I have NO lights whatsoever front or back. Major frustration
 
Built the 3 wire harness and works great . Thanks for the write up. I was running led brake/turn signals and ha to remove them for everything to work. I suppose just not enough resistance in the circuit.

Those still running stock fenders where did you attach your ground wire?
 
Built the 3 wire harness and works great . Thanks for the write up. I was running led brake/turn signals and ha to remove them for everything to work. I suppose just not enough resistance in the circuit.

Those still running stock fenders where did you attach your ground wire?
I spliced mine into the headlight ground further down the loom. Took a little bit of effort to get the loom opened up enough and accessible enough to make my splices, but was easy enough. Keeps it nice and clean looking and not a tacky random wire running to a screw point.

You can go back to rear LEDs and have them blink properly if you want. Need to change the flasher module. EP26 for 97-2000 and LM470 for 2001-2001.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Steel City 06
Rather than cut the wires to the side marker light I made a patch cable that will do the same thing. Way more easier to build the circuit, no cutting of wires, and it's reversible.

When the adapter is installed you may run into the following issues.
If the LED does not light at all, you need to spin the bulb 180 degrees in the socket.
If the LED does light but it is bright, you need to rotate the plug into the factory socket by 180 degrees.

The second if statement has to do with the default mode of the side marker is dim, and when it flashes it gets bright. If you put the plug into the factory socket the wrong way the bulb will always be bright, even when it flashes.

If you want to build this circuit like I did here's the parts you will need the following additional items to your BOM.

194 Male Sockets
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WTZMNZL/?tag=wranglerorg-20

194 Female Sockets
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H8F322J/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Here's what it looks like. I haven't tested it yet but I did build the circuit exactly Steel City 06 described.
View attachment 169551
i finally got the 194 male and female sockets. I'm not clear if these also need diodes and resistors or if they're good to go with just a ground?
 
i finally got the 194 male and female sockets. I'm not clear if these also need diodes and resistors or if they're good to go with just a ground?
Still need diodes and resistors. The male and female sockets just make it to where you can build the diodes and resistors into a jumper harness so as to not permanently modify your factory harness. the diodes and resistors would go between the male socket that plugs into your existing female socket and the new female socket that your led will go into.

One of the wires coming from the new female socket will need to go to ground because the two wires coming from the male socket will need to each have the diodes and one of them the resistor and then splice to the other wire on the new female socket.
 
Correct, but I was able to run side and front LED markers without the need for resistors. Including turn signals on a three wire LED marker.
Interesting. The sides still blink with the fronts when headlights are off, and alternate blinking with the front when headlights are on? No backfeeding or turn signal indicators on dash?

If all that’s correct, I’m wondering what bulbs you used? Tried a bunch and nothing acted right until I did the diode/resistor mod. I don’t regret it, it was worth it, but would be interesting to know what works if you found something.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ephry73
Correct, but I was able to run side and front LED markers without the need for resistors. Including turn signals on a three wire LED marker.
In that case the diodes and dimming resistors are built into the three-wire marker.

The inline resistors and diodes mentioned in this thread are used to replicate the function of those internal components on a factory style socket to make it easier to install in an OEM fender flare. If you use an aftermarket three-wire setup, it is plug and play. I’m not aware of any that snap into the OEM fender flares, though.

Neither method requires load resistors, as long as the relay is swapped.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ephry73
Interesting. The sides still blink with the fronts when headlights are off, and alternate blinking with the front when headlights are on? No backfeeding or turn signal indicators on dash?

If all that’s correct, I’m wondering what bulbs you used? Tried a bunch and nothing acted right until I did the diode/resistor mod. I don’t regret it, it was worth it, but would be interesting to know what works if you found something.
No issues with them off or on. I wired them so that I could use them and not get pulled over
 
Here’s a tip. Use an LED flash relay, and use Sylvania ZEVO LEDs all around … everything works without any wiring change except the front fenders won’t blink with the side markers on. Only blink during the day and steadily illuminate at night … I’ve done this combo on 3-4 TJ/LJs

I made a harness and it didn’t work, also tried single mode front indicators (one hot and one dedicated ground) and got wierd feedback for the cluster and rear taillights.
 
Here’s a tip. Use an LED flash relay, and use Sylvania ZEVO LEDs all around … everything works without any wiring change except the front fenders won’t blink with the side markers on. Only blink during the day and steadily illuminate at night … I’ve done this combo on 3-4 TJ/LJs

I made a harness and it didn’t work, also tried single mode front indicators (one hot and one dedicated ground) and got wierd feedback for the cluster and rear taillights.

Interesting outcome… I’ll try the suggested method by Steel City and see what I get.
 
Here’s a tip. Use an LED flash relay, and use Sylvania ZEVO LEDs all around … everything works without any wiring change except the front fenders won’t blink with the side markers on. Only blink during the day and steadily illuminate at night … I’ve done this combo on 3-4 TJ/LJs

I made a harness and it didn’t work, also tried single mode front indicators (one hot and one dedicated ground) and got wierd feedback for the cluster and rear taillights.

The steel city method is perfect with no downsides. I like my side markers to still blink at night with lights on.
 
Installing LED headlights, taillights, and front turn signals requires nothing more than replacing your flasher relay in the steering column with an LED flasher relay.

However, to use LEDs in the front fender side-markers, you'll run into issues. The side-markers ground through the unused filament on the front fender bulbs, and if the resistance is too high in the front fender bulbs, as is with a light emitting diode, the side-markers will not light, and the front LEDs May light inappropriately.

In order to get LEDs in both, you need to convert the fender flare sockets into a 3-wire setup using standard diodes and dimming resistors.

It can also be done with load resistors, but load resistors will waste energy and are more finicky

Here is a crappy guide to a 3-wire setup:

View attachment 142439

Buy a set of 1 watt resistors and fine tune the low brightness using the resistor. You want a brightness that is bright enough yet contrasts with the high brightness for the turn signal. I think I used 350 ohm resistors in mine.

It will simply alternate low/high brightness when the turn signals and parking lights are on, and low when only parking lights are on.

No changes are needed to the front fender sockets if this wiring is followed for the fender flare sidemarkers.
Waiting for supplies to make this…
C37673BF-7A89-42E5-B7AC-1CF05268CCAD.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Steel City 06