Want to install lockers but not sure what to order
- Thread starter snowlover
- Start date
Agreed, only noticed it when testing in the driveway. I have not had any issues on the trail.
Terrrs01
Member
Could be. Or the fact that you have to bend them in the first place 100% weakness them straight out of the box. Did a little googling and it seems pretty common for the ears to break. I’m just pissed because I shouldn’t have to use a pairof plyers and bend a weaka$$ spot weld for a $1000 locker. There’s no way they are suppose to bent like that. 1 at near 90* and the other completely off.
With that being said. The 4 times they worked before they didn’t was nice!
Let's think about why you decided to back up in the first place. It was probably so that you reposition the Jeep in order to attack from a different angle. You stopped going in reverse in a place that was more stable with better traction. Now your moving forward again and never noticed that 1 foot of rolling circumference when you didn't have 100% traction.
Either that or you were turtled on an obstacle where having traction or lacking it didn't matter either way. Cause you weren't going nowhere.
I agree. I'd be disappointed also. Just think how pissed you'd be if the tabs had taken out your brand new gears at the same time. It can always be worse!
But to some people, 1’ can and does matter. For this case on 35s it’s 21.4” - a lot can happen in that distance.
2*pi*(35/2)*(70/360) = 21.38”
If you have the budget you cant go wrong with the ARB or elocker.
In my case I installed an auto locker in the front and couldn't be happier for the type of driving I do. I went with the Torq Locker. Super easy to install and totally transformed the way the Jeep climbs now. Its awesome.
In my case I installed an auto locker in the front and couldn't be happier for the type of driving I do. I went with the Torq Locker. Super easy to install and totally transformed the way the Jeep climbs now. Its awesome.
Wow! I wish I’d know this before spending $1k on this POS eaton......
3wheel drive for 21” (assuming 100% traction) is just not acceptable.
^sarcasm
I didn’t say it was a POS, just that unlocked distance may matter for some. Supposing you back up in some scenarios I’ve been in your looking at 42” of movement before locking back up if you then pull forward. On some of our rocks you want that locked spin to heat things up and then grab.
Whether or not it actually matters, I’m not sure.
I'm not sure it matters anymore than than ARB's feature of being either 100% on or off. People like Detroits a lot and those also unlock when unloaded.
Maybe if it does matter it’s such nuanced situations that the majority of us are good to go either ARB or E Locker without much concern.
Those varying nuanced situations could easily find an advantage with one design and not the other. It all depends.
When my rubicon locker failed a second time, I went with ARB. But I haven't come up with a compelling reason for why I didn't go with Eaton.
Im mostly curious as I plan the next few steps of my build. I know that at least my rear is likely just a matter of time with the rubi LSD. The front may be good for as long as it’s in there. I lean toward ARB just because of friends’ familiarity with them.
That might be why I went ARB. Peer pressure! And you're in with the same group of peers.
I fretted over this decision for way longer than necessary and went with elocker. I’m sure ARB would’ve be just fine but figured I’d save a little with not getting the compressor. I do think the unlocking is a real factor especially for the hardcore folks, but that ain’t me so I’m good with it.
I firmly believe this is a shipping/ packaging issue on Eaton's part rather than manufacturing/ QC. When my E-Lockers showed up via UPS, I recall the Eaton boxes being pretty beat up. It was obvious that the lockers had been tumbling around inside the boxes for quite a few highway miles. It's almost like Eaton only has one size box for these things and it's made to fit a Dana 80 differential. So they throw some Dana 30/ Dana 35 units inside the same box and neglect to add any additional cushioning to take up the extra space.
It would be smarter on Eaton's part to ship the units with the stator rings removed from the differential and packaged by itself. The vast majority of us doing the install are removing the stator right away in order to set-up the gears. This prevents the magnet from being damaged/ wires pinched when the diff goes in and our of the housing a dozen times. It isn't until final install (after the gear pattern has been set) that the stator gets put back onto the differential. Seems like it would save Eaton a bunch of warranty headaches and their customers a lot of time and hassle...