Yep, that’s exactly how it felt the final time I installed it. Wish it woulda taken me three less tries to figure it out though!
Weird second to third gear shifting on 32RH transmission
- Thread starter DevinStewart
- Start date
Yep, that’s exactly how it felt the final time I installed it. Wish it woulda taken me three less tries to figure it out though!
Definitely a life saver I couldn’t be more thankful! Made me know what to do and why everything worked the way it does. Really upped the confidence, which is especially important for a kid my age.
You picked a great one for your first. My first ever were 727s, 904s, C4s, and C6s. The open bottom case designs are cool because you can just air check with a rubber tipped blow gun.
I dont know. I did a quick search and didnt find the location, but I would bet there is a manual somewhere that shows it.
You could put a bit of air to all of those round ports and hear a thump or see the the servos move. But dont by that piston between the servos because it will blow it out. Dont check anything there til you verify what is what.
I’ll do that and report back ASAP. What do you mean by that piston in between the servos are you talking about the yellowish plastic one? Should I just hold a hand on it to make sure it doesn’t blow out?
Yes. It doesnt look captured with the valve body removed. You could, but even at a low psi its coming out
Don’t kid yourself, I’ve watched tons of rebuilds on four wheelers and dirt transmissions when I was working on them. Yours was by far the easiest to follow video, plus I’m sure the number of people who actually have to rely of the air test is so small it doesn’t matter.
Air checking really costs you nothing. It can separate you from the people pulling it a second time because they goofed up a ring or seal and didn't catch it till the test drive.
I have built hundreds and air checked every single one before installing the valve body. Because you only get paid for R&R one time
@DevinStewart - did you correctly deal with the fact that the kickdown valve & throttle valve are shown wrong in the FSM? I don't remember if my videos show this correction or not. I did a throttle valve body overhaul thread and I mention there that if you follow the FSM you'll get "super early shifts and no kickdown."
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-to-overhaul-a-32rh-valve-body.63250/
See here where I have corrected figure 68 from the FSM
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-to-overhaul-a-32rh-valve-body.63250/
See here where I have corrected figure 68 from the FSM
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ohhhh man! Pretty sure that’s it I went back and forth tons of times which way that went in as it didn’t look right to me but I just went with what the manual says. I attached a pic of how much the lockdown valve sticks out. Never looked right to me is this the problem?
That was definitely the big problem, here’s a pic of how it’s going back in just so you can check my work.
Yes that looks correct. Make sure you get the throttle valve oriented correctly as per fig 68 in that section.
Much better looking now although I am still worried about the 2nd gear issue and whether or not the kickdown valve will fix it. I did the air pressure checks and the front and rear servos as well as the rear clutch sounded/worked great. The front clutch test didn’t sound as nice though, missing the sort of pressure thunk like the rear clutch had. I took a video of the tests but I’m not really sure how to attach it in this forum. Maybe I just don’t really know what it should sound like and the kickdown will fix it all?
I wasn’t able to get it to fall out like I did last time. But I did shine a light in to make sure the skinnier end was facing out and it was
I would just post it on youtube and then link that here. I think I would expect it to sound pretty much the same on each clutch pack, since both sets have the same number and they are basically the same size. But what do I know? I think the main thing is that you don't hear any blow by at that piston. But also 1st & 2nd gear both only use the rear clutch, so the only time a front clutch problem would show itself is going to 3rd gear.
The overrun clutch is used in 1st but not 2nd, but it's not a clutch (at least not in the sense most people think of when they think clutches). I don't even think you can put it in the wrong way due to how it fits into that cam at the bottom/back of the case. Which to me means that its unlikely the overrun clutch is the problem.
But more importatnly, what issues do you still have after flipping that kickdown valve? Or have you not road tested it yet?
Haven’t road tested it yet I figured I’d be safe then sorry and make sure there wasn’t any other problems. 3rd gear was not giving me any problems so if the front pack controls that I’m sure I don’t have to worry. I’ll update tomorrow what I test.
Okay I finally have the report. On the WOT test it behaves much better now, holding second and actually giving me power from it, shifting both times at around 4 to 4500 rpms which I think is close enough to be able to change with the tv cable. I still don’t like a few things though. When I’m just casually laying on the gas it still doesn’t hold second long enough and when it shift up to third it revs up just a tad. I feel like the downshifting is a lot better but it still wants to hold in third just a little too much as well. Now I do believe I remember CMBD saying that when pressure testing I should keep a finger on the accumulator piston so it doesn’t shoot out at me. But I noticed when installing that the o rings don’t really provide a nice seal. In fact not even good enough to hold the accumulator in its hole, it easily falls right out. Could this cause the problems by pressure getting past this upon shifts? I see a lot of people buy a billet replacement but I never really looked into it as I never understood what the accumulator does.
An accumulator is a sort of shock absorber for fluid pressure. It slows down application of clutches and bands and controls shift timing. They are used to take the harshness out of shifts. Shift timing being how long it takes to apply the clutch or whatever, not between different gears.
TV, governor, and valve body together control shift schedule.
Im not a 32RH guru, but if it doesnt seal well enough to even keep it in the bore its leaking. I would think that is bad because it will lower the pressure of the circuit it is in.
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