Welding advice

Chasitek

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Can someone help me out and tell me what I should work on with my welds. I finally got some gas for the welder i’ve had sitting around and got it started. These are the first welds i’ve ever done ever on a mig. Is it too hot/cold fast/slow etc. i know the first one I did was a little too spaced out. All the spots are tacks. Not splatter. I was trying to get it dialed in. 1st weld is red 2nd is blue.

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They look decent enough. Play around with small adjustments on your amperage and wire speed. Your photos look a tad hot due to the size of the heat ring, and you can get a "lower" bead by turning the wire speed down a little. But all in all, it looks like good penetration and if those are your first every welds then you'll be stacking dimes in no time. Several hours of videos on YouTube for this too.

Just curious, what welder do you have?
 
They look decent enough. Play around with small adjustments on your amperage and wire speed. Your photos look a tad hot due to the size of the heat ring, and you can get a "lower" bead by turning the wire speed down a little. But all in all, it looks like good penetration and if those are your first every welds then you'll be stacking dimes in no time. Several hours of videos on YouTube for this too.

Just curious, what welder do you have?
Stop with the stacking dimes bullshit. He is not Tig welding aluminum.
 
Dangit Blaine...how is he supposed to learn stupid welding jokes if we don't throw them in there from time to time? :ROFLMAO: I don't think I've ever laid a bead as wide as a dime but the phrase continues.... I leave with another one, it is what it is.
 
I used to TIG the stack of dimes 8 hours a day putting together octagon aluminum frames that were roughly .050" thick. My dimes were, at the largest, .125" wide. Anything larger did not pass inspection even if they weren't visible on the other side which was the main goal.

FWIW, I don't think those welds really look like the stacked dimes and joining metal should be the very next thing he does.
 
They look decent enough. Play around with small adjustments on your amperage and wire speed. Your photos look a tad hot due to the size of the heat ring, and you can get a "lower" bead by turning the wire speed down a little. But all in all, it looks like good penetration and if those are your first every welds then you'll be stacking dimes in no time. Several hours of videos on YouTube for this too.

Just curious, what welder do you have?
I’ve watched a bunch of videos on youtube but just wanted some opinions from people. I was thinking it might be a little hot. After the first bead I turned it down a notch. Guess i’ll turn it down a little more. I’ve got a lincoln electric 140 since I live in and apt. I thought about getting a 240v and unplugging the washer whenever I wanted to use it since the laundry room is right off the garage but decided against that. Lol. I’ll play with the settings some more. Thanks.
 
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I’ve watched a bunch of videos on youtube but just wanted some opinions from people. I was thinking it might be a little hot. After the first bead I turned it down a notch. Guess i’ll turn it down a little more. I’ve got a lincoln electric 140 since I live in and apt. I thought about getting a 240v and unplugging the washer whenever I wanted to use it since the laundry room is right off the garage but decided against that. Lol. I’ll play with the settings some more. Thanks.
If you are just doing light-to-medium hobby work, that Lincoln 140 will do just fine. Have fun with it!
 
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Looks a little hot as others have said. I would first start out with lap joints. Easier to get a feel for amps, wire feed speed, and sound. While welding it should sound like bacon frying in a hot pan. Practice makes perfect. Make sure your welds are at least 2 inches long. That gives you a large enough sample area while inspecting your welds. Good Luck!
 
Thanks for the info! The only reason I haven’t really tried joining two pieces together is cause I just wanted to get a feel for all the settings and the motion. Also, I only have these small square pieces at the moment and my table is painted so i’m waiting for the welding table I bought to come so I can ground the table. I’m gonna try a couple T joints tho and will update more as I do.
 
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Thanks for the info! The only reason I haven’t really tried joining two pieces together is cause I just wanted to get a feel for all the settings and the motion. Also, I only have these small square pieces at the moment and my table is painted so i’m waiting for the welding table I bought to come so I can ground the table. I’m gonna try a couple T joints tho and will update more as I do.
You are doing fine. Stop doing the tack thing (it is a needed skill, just not now) and practice running beads without doing the alphabet. No circles, no cursive e, just a smooth straight pull for now maintaining constant speed and angle of the gun to the work surface. You are trying to learn how to lay down a bead that looks like a caulking bead with a slightly rounded surface and minimal electrode manipulation. No more than a 1/16" wash back and forth as the gun moves along.

When you get to where you can lay a consistent height and width with that slightly rounded shape, the rest will come easy.

When you do the fillet on the T welds, hold the gun at a 45 between the two sides and a 45 in the pull direction of the weld. Do a pull weld for now so you can learn to watch the puddle fill and adjust your speed as needed based on that. If you do not have a hood you can see the puddle with easily, get one.
 
You are doing fine. Stop doing the tack thing (it is a needed skill, just not now) and practice running beads without doing the alphabet. No circles, no cursive e, just a smooth straight pull for now maintaining constant speed and angle of the gun to the work surface. You are trying to learn how to lay down a bead that looks like a caulking bead with a slightly rounded surface and minimal electrode manipulation. No more than a 1/16" wash back and forth as the gun moves along.

When you get to where you can lay a consistent height and width with that slightly rounded shape, the rest will come easy.

When you do the fillet on the T welds, hold the gun at a 45 between the two sides and a 45 in the pull direction of the weld. Do a pull weld for now so you can learn to watch the puddle fill and adjust your speed as needed based on that. If you do not have a hood you can see the puddle with easily, get one.
The tacks were just trying to figure out wtf was wrong with the welder. Turns out I didn’t put a tip on it. Lol. But will do.
 
You are doing fine. Stop doing the tack thing (it is a needed skill, just not now) and practice running beads without doing the alphabet. No circles, no cursive e, just a smooth straight pull for now maintaining constant speed and angle of the gun to the work surface. You are trying to learn how to lay down a bead that looks like a caulking bead with a slightly rounded surface and minimal electrode manipulation. No more than a 1/16" wash back and forth as the gun moves along.

When you get to where you can lay a consistent height and width with that slightly rounded shape, the rest will come easy.

When you do the fillet on the T welds, hold the gun at a 45 between the two sides and a 45 in the pull direction of the weld. Do a pull weld for now so you can learn to watch the puddle fill and adjust your speed as needed based on that. If you do not have a hood you can see the puddle with easily, get one.
I learned about having a good hood early on when an idiot buddy of mine bought a cheap one that wasn’t auto darkening. Anyway, I went out and tried some lap joints and a couple T joints. Took me a minute to figure out wtf was going wrong and then figured out the wire wasn’t on the roller. Anyway. Here’s some pictures, besides consistency, what should I work on temp/speed wise? Stupid question, but what’s the yellowish stuff inbetween each puddle? I’ve seen it and know it’s pretty normal but what is it?

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I know a lot of people do but it just wasn’t in my budget. It was this or a hobart but I got this brand new for $300 bucks cause someone waited past the return window.
Lincoln and Hobart are great. Miller is great to. Used a Miller 212 a lot at a job I use to work but I'd never buy one unless I started a fab shop or somthin.
 
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I learned about having a good hood early on when an idiot buddy of mine bought a cheap one that wasn’t auto darkening. Anyway, I went out and tried some lap joints and a couple T joints. Took me a minute to figure out wtf was going wrong and then figured out the wire wasn’t on the roller. Anyway. Here’s some pictures, besides consistency, what should I work on temp/speed wise? Stupid question, but what’s the yellowish stuff inbetween each puddle? I’ve seen it and know it’s pretty normal but what is it?

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The yellow stuff is impurities in the base metal being floated to the top. Normal.

You are stopping to let each puddle fill. If you NOT do that you will be a better welder. Try to do what I said above. Steady consistent movement without stopping.
 
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