Welding wire size

pcoplin

pcoplin

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Figured I would ask you guys about welding wire for what we do. For cages, frame, axles, ect.

I have a Millermatic 200 (250 amp machine) and have always ran .035 in it. For the fab I do I'm not sure I need it, been thinking of swapping to .030. I also have a 110v welder with .023 in it for small stuff.

Any reason to step down to .030 wire? Thanks!

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I run an old Millermatic 185. I also use the .035 most of the time. The only time I use .030 is if I have a lot of sheet metal to weld, otherwise I make do with the .035

Edit: I see no reason for you to ever swap because you have your 110 welder.
 
Yeah, not worried about light sheet and exhaust, I already have a Lincoln SP100 for that.

I'm not trying to do sheet metal with my 250 amp machine, just trying to better my tube work welding with it.

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pcoplin said:
Figured I would ask you guys about welding wire for what we do. For cages, frame, axles, ect.

I have a Millermatic 200 (250 amp machine) and have always ran .035 in it. For the fab I do I'm not sure I need it, been thinking of swapping to .030. I also have a 110v welder with .023 in it for small stuff.

Any reason to step down to .030 wire? Thanks!

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
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If you step down to the .030, you can slow down the deposition rate and still get good penetration for welding copes on tubes etc. Gives you just a smidge more time to lay the bead around tricky areas if you are not one who is practiced and does it all the time.
 
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pcoplin said:
Yeah, not worried about light sheet and exhaust, I already have a Lincoln SP100 for that.

I'm not trying to do sheet metal with my 250 amp machine, just trying to better my tube work welding with it.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Lay out some practice copes and a small spool of .030. I believe you may enjoy the lower deposition rate and the small bit more time to lay the bead in accurately.
 
mrblaine said:
Lay out some practice copes and a small spool of .030. I believe you may enjoy the lower deposition rate and the small bit more time to lay the bead in accurately.
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can't fit below a 10 lb roll on my machine, sort of an investment, but may be worth a try.

Thanks for validating my assumption. My Fullstack partner does cage work with his Hobart 140, and his beads are excellent. I can do tubing much better with that machine also, the speed seems to be cut down significantly. I don't do roll cage stuff often enough, I get mediocre results until 5 or 6 tubes deep. LOL
 
mrblaine said:
If you step down to the .030, you can slow down the deposition rate and still get good penetration for welding copes on tubes etc. Gives you just a smidge more time to lay the bead around tricky areas if you are not one who is practiced and does it all the time.
Click to expand...
I agree with Mrblain, weld puddle control will be easier with the .30 and help the look of the finished weld and cut back on the grinding/cleaning time.
 
MutantNinjaTJ said:
I agree with Mrblain, weld puddle control will be easier with the .30 and help the look of the finished weld and cut back on the grinding/cleaning time.
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Thanks!

Although Im not a professional, I consider myself to be a welder, not a grinder. :)

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I have some friends that are welders, they are good welders who do it for a living. Once I got around them and listened and saw what they do, I figured out that I am someone who welds, but a welder I am not.
 
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I have several friends that are welders by trade, and I joke that I'll never ask them for advice. Because unless it's building bridges or boat hulls, I'll never be doing it right. Haha!

Fabricator is a better word, welders weld by what's on the spec for that job, and if it's not perfect on an x-ray, they'll be out of a job. Much different than gluing .120 wall tube together, a lot more forgiveness in that.

I do however try to make it professional for the little amount I end up doing.

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pcoplin said:
I have several friends that are welders by trade, and I joke that I'll never ask them for advice. Because unless it's building bridges or boat hulls, I'll never be doing it right. Haha!

Fabricator is a better word, welders weld by what's on the spec for that job, and if it's not perfect on an x-ray, they'll be out of a job. Much different than gluing .120 wall tube together, a lot more forgiveness in that.

I do however try to make it professional for the little amount I end up doing.

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You can always tell someone who doesn't know welders and welding by them asking for a "certified" welder to come and do work. Sorry, it doesn't really work that way. What processes do you want them certified in? There is a bunch of them and they have to pass a certification for each process. One friend in particular has been doing this a long time and just went to work at some fairly strict place due to the type of work they do. Each welder has to recertify a group of processes that are commonly used. He is very good and tells me he is struggling to pass this one uphill process with a special rod for arc welding and it is kicking his ass.
 
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