OP
Well, you definitely get a nod from me regarding your dedication haha. I'll never have anything that wild.
Well.. here it is. My Jeep Journal.
- Thread starter Katuhstrofik
- Start date
42tjd80
Member
I appreciate it lol. It's a ton of work and it makes me want to tear my hair out most of the time lol. But it'll be worth it in the end lol.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
OP
i will include pics of the torx boxes, in most cases the front of the box is ok , yours look ok from pics. what i did is cut where the torx boxes go down in size see pic with my finger showing it, the first pic is looking at the torx box from front to rear, you can see where it was cut and i installed the 1x3 tubing inside the torx box
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Very clever.I was just going to bend brackets to cover over the bad rusted out ones.Looks like a great way to repair them properly.
OP
the pic with my finger shows where it downsizes to 1x3 , i cut from front to back horizontally the old sides of the torx boxes(rotted part) out right to the end in rear. i ground it all down to bare metal , test fit the 1x3 in the torx box front where cut , and marked where the body mounts would go. then pulled the 1x3 back out and on the top side of 1x3 where the body mounts are marked out, i cut with hole saw a 1 1/2" hole out of top only,( save piece u cut out) and on the bottom side of the 1x3 where the body mounts will be , drilled a 9/16ths hole that the 1/2 inch body mount bolt will go thru. i put a 1/2" nut on the inside of the 1x3 from top where you cut it out with hole saw and welded a nut in place over the 9/16 hole. so when you put your mounts and bolt in the nut is welded from inside. The piece you saved , i welded back in where it came from filling in the top side of 1x3 and ground smooth. repeat for the other 3 body mounts. then insert the 1x3 into the torx box and weld it up , there you have it for under 20$. if you decide to buy the pre made torx boxes, the labor will be a little more intense as you would have to drill out all the spot welds, grind, clean and smooth out to put new torx boxes in. i will start thread about my build and go into more detail, sorry the pics is of the finished product, i should have taken more pics as i was going. i was in rush to get jeep done for winter plowing. sorry pics look dirty,as i just came in from plowing and dirt and slush everywhere.
also in the front of the rear wheel house where torx box ends , that spot always rots out and it rots out the outer body in that area. so when i replaced my torx boxes , i cut the bottom of body out and made it open so all the salt dirt can't build up there and rot it again. i hope this helps
also in the front of the rear wheel house where torx box ends , that spot always rots out and it rots out the outer body in that area. so when i replaced my torx boxes , i cut the bottom of body out and made it open so all the salt dirt can't build up there and rot it again. i hope this helps
you can also see in the pics , i removed and left it off, the tranny skid plate. it holds the salt and slush etc.. and helps the rot process in the mid section of the frame. i made my own cross member out of 1x2 tube, welded it in solid. with the 1 1/4 body lift i have ,i can still remove tranny to replace clutch when needed
What did you paint it with after,por15 or chassis saver,etc. Is that undercoating after sprayed on,Krown etc?
i por 15 the chassis and fluid film, the body while off i rhino lined the complete bottom and the complete interior
Looks fantastic mike.I am glad I stumbled across this build.I bought mine a month ago and have only cut the bottom from my frame. Can't believe there were no drain holes.Going to work my way up from the bottom. Nice long winter project and probably then some.Did you use fluid film on the inside of the frame over the clean and bare metal or coat the inside with anything first?
nothing but fluid film inside , then this weekend i will use the cans of expandable spray foam, spray it in every hole in the frame , let it expand and cut anything off that protrudes , that way the salt and crap get in there to rot it out again
I dunno about this... that is open cell foam, and can hold moisture. You might be better off with east wood internal frame coating.
TJ2
TJ Expert
Mike I wish I can sway you away from using the expandable foam.
I have a trail buddy that I helped his rig restore it with the foam sealing plugging every hole of his frame.
BAD IDEA. 6 years later, it's really a BAD IDEA. It attracted and trapped all the moist inside.
If I were you, Eastwood and leave it open. I used POR-15 on mine and left it open. I go for a thorough under chassis manual power wash every after winter.
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i hear ya, i seen the eastwood build rust under the coating after time also, so im tossed between the two. maybe a little more research before i proceed. thanks,
been thinking, i have used the coating that they put on pipes underground. i used it on a 85 chevy p/u floors and frame externally. you have to put it on by brush, its like a tar substance. i did that over 15 years ago, the last i knew, about 4 years ago the truck was still running no rot. i was amazed. i looked in my shop and found the can, it still had a 1/4 gallon left in it, but the can was rotted on the bottom where it was sitting on the concrete and the tar substance was hard as a rock. can't get any info off of the can, surface rust.i did pipeline work years ago and the coating was not available to the public, to hazardous. only to the public utility's and contractors. i have to do some searching see if i can find a old friend that still does that kind of work. i would like to see if i could thin it out and spray it internally in frame. i know when we pulled old pipes out of the ground that has been buried for years, where ever the coating was applied the pipe was like new. something to think about.
Maybe no internal coating ( might come off eventually ) and just do the krown or fluid film every year.Just put the rubber plugs in the areas near the wheels to keep the crap out and the rest leave open. The oil should crawl and protect.
TJ2
TJ Expert
POR-15 is what I used on my frame sprayed inside the tube.
It converts rust into hard paint surface.
Does not come off from steel.
It converts rust into hard paint surface.
Does not come off from steel.
Did you just go right over the rust surface inside the frame after you cleaned it as best you could.Mine is still cut open at the bottom and I can see up into both sides and front and back.I thought after I wire wheeled it and blew it out. I would make a brush extension and reach up as far as I could with por 15 .Father up it looks good so I thought the por 15 would seal the rusty area and after it was sealed up just use Krown or fluid film.