What are the benefits of manual locking hubs?

Silly boy, the one under the bench is the 5 on 4.5" 27 spline version. And I posted pics for you of the u-joints that come in the hub conversion kits from Yukon.
Here is the one under the bench.
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Oh, hey lookie there, it has u-joints included.
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I'd have a lot fewer posts if I didn't have to keep repeating the same thing over and over to folks before it finally sinks in.

do you know by chance what is the replacement for the broken warn hub in the small kit? The warn PN is 37380, but they no longer manufacture it.
I bought the kit second hand, and it appears that one of the warn hubs does not lock, it just stays open all the time.
I anyway planned to carry spare, so buying a new pair would be perfect.
This is PN for Warn in the pic, this is my broken hub and this is the suspected mile marker replacement that I found.

Do you think that this mile marker one is 100% compatible with warn 37380 from small kit?

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do you know by chance what is the replacement for the broken warn hub in the small kit? The warn PN is 37380, but they no longer manufacture it.
I bought the kit second hand, and it appears that one of the warn hubs does not lock, it just stays open all the time.
I anyway planned to carry spare, so buying a new pair would be perfect.
This is PN for Warn in the pic, this is my broken hub and this is the suspected mile marker replacement that I found.

Do you think that this mile marker one is 100% compatible with warn 37380 from small kit?

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I don't know if the MM piece is a direct interchange. I've never had them both at the same time to compare. The new piece from Yukon are the AVM hubs with a steel body made in Brazil. If you try a set, check how the splines fit and make sure they are the same hole diameter.
 
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I don't know if the MM piece is a direct interchange. I've never had them both at the same time to compare. The new piece from Yukon are the AVM hubs with a steel body made in Brazil. If you try a set, check how the splines fit and make sure they are the same hole diameter.

AVM 465 XP is now made from unobtainium. Out of stock everywhere. I will give shot with Mile Marker 428 hub, which is supposed to work on my kit as well, even if it seems weaker than warn part.
I actually think that breaking the manual hub (like the warn 37780 or the AVM 465 XP) on trail is a simple replacement, as simple as replacing a tire. Seems to be a like a really nice fuse to protect the front driveline with my Dana 30.
 
AVM 465 XP is now made from unobtainium. Out of stock everywhere. I will give shot with Mile Marker 428 hub, which is supposed to work on my kit as well, even if it seems weaker than warn part.
I actually think that breaking the manual hub (like the warn 37780 or the AVM 465 XP) on trail is a simple replacement, as simple as replacing a tire. Seems to be a like a really nice fuse to protect the front driveline with my Dana 30.

No experience with the breakage level of the AVM part but if it is stronger and it appears to be, bad things are going to start happening. The Warn failure is almost always the cast hub body exploding and I've never heard of or seen one that was stripped out at the inner or outer splines. The steel body of the AVM part means that likely will not be the case and we can hope the splines strip.
 
No experience with the breakage level of the AVM part but if it is stronger and it appears to be, bad things are going to start happening. The Warn failure is almost always the cast hub body exploding and I've never heard of or seen one that was stripped out at the inner or outer splines. The steel body of the AVM part means that likely will not be the case and we can hope the splines strip.

On my failed warn unit, there is nothing visually wrong with it. The splines into which the shaft fits are all OK. Seems like what failed is what supposed to lock the splines to the hub body.
 
On my failed warn unit, there is nothing visually wrong with it. The splines into which the shaft fits are all OK. Seems like what failed is what supposed to lock the splines to the hub body.

Very odd, first one I've heard of doing that. You can dig that retaining ring out and see what failed.
 
No experience with the breakage level of the AVM part but if it is stronger and it appears to be, bad things are going to start happening. The Warn failure is almost always the cast hub body exploding and I've never heard of or seen one that was stripped out at the inner or outer splines. The steel body of the AVM part means that likely will not be the case and we can hope the splines strip.

I just bought and installed Mile Marker 428 hubs.
They are for Ford Ranger and explorer, but seems to work just fine with Yukon Manual Hub kit. I assume that they are weaker that AVM/Warn, but taking into account that I don’t do rock crawling (more of overlanding, national parks etc), I assume that they will work. I will carry spares for them, as they will serve as a fuse for the front driveline.
 
I will keep this thread posted on how Mike Marker 428 perform.
My idea is to keep them as a fuse for front, with 31s. If they break, I just replace them on trail, all it takes to replace team is remove the front wheel.
 
I went to Big Bend last week. I did everything with unlocked hubs, and had to lock the hubs only on the step of Black Gap.
Having 2LOW is one of the biggest benefits of having manual hubs in TJ.