What are the benefits of manual locking hubs?
- Thread starter Chris
- Start date
That's a good trick since none of them suck anyway. All they do is create low pressure zones that air moves into.
So you're saying that an ideal vacuum cleaner sucks less? My mind is blown.
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I was very interested in running selectable hubs with my JK axles but I believe Spyntech was the only supplier for the JK axle. They never had any decent reviews and I haven't had problems with the wheel bearings, despite running terrible front suspension with some death wobble before i fixed things. My main reason for wanting the hubs was for the busted ride home but honestly the cost of hubs I like 2/3 of the cost of a trailer, and I already have a 3/4 ton truck. If you add in the cost to change wheel bolt patterns then blammo over the cost of a trailer.
There appears to be a new an interesting option from Teraflex:
https://www.quadratec.com/p/terafle...-conversion-kit-rotors-07-17-jeep-wrangler-jk.
This one steps up to a 35 spline outer 4340 shaft, when paired with a 35 spline locker could be a nice addition. This kind of plays nicely into my previous thread, Build a Bomber Dana 44 and gets 3/4ton wheel bearings. Assuming you're (I'm not) burning up gearsets, this really leaves the balljoints as the final weak point.
These are 8-lug but also set up for 5x5.5 I think. Not sure how they would work with a JL caliper, it sound like you have to run their custom caliper, which tacks another $800+ onto the cost, but it must bolt up to the JK knuckle still.
There appears to be a new an interesting option from Teraflex:
https://www.quadratec.com/p/terafle...-conversion-kit-rotors-07-17-jeep-wrangler-jk.
This one steps up to a 35 spline outer 4340 shaft, when paired with a 35 spline locker could be a nice addition. This kind of plays nicely into my previous thread, Build a Bomber Dana 44 and gets 3/4ton wheel bearings. Assuming you're (I'm not) burning up gearsets, this really leaves the balljoints as the final weak point.
These are 8-lug but also set up for 5x5.5 I think. Not sure how they would work with a JL caliper, it sound like you have to run their custom caliper, which tacks another $800+ onto the cost, but it must bolt up to the JK knuckle still.
I’m looking at getting the Yukon locking hubs for my TJ, my primary reason would be for the ‘fuse’ component…would love to have that as the most likely (no guarantees) failure point in the event of a high stress load. Read this thread, but hoping more people might chime in and comment if the Yukon locking hubs behave that way.
Thanks
Thanks
Doesn't work that way on the mechanical side and you don't want it to. The reason I said Yes they don't is because sometimes the hub breaks, sometimes the inner 27 spline breaks, sometimes the u-joint breaks and sometimes you break a u-joint on one side and a locking hub on the other at the same time.
Warn use to make what they called a "fuse" for the 30 spline locking hub kit. Biggest piece of shit ever invented. We'd have a guy on trail with us in JV, every few hundred feet he'd break a fuse, we'd all get to stop and watch him replace it, go for a bit more, break another one. Probably added a couple hours to one trail just watching that guy swapping out fuses in his hubs. Fully dumb.
Yep, sounds like not worth it especially for the cost! Think I’ll just find a bit more room to carry a spare unit bearing and outer shaft…if anything breaks upstream of those, just disconnect/remove problem and live with 2wd…
Thanks!
Thanks!
Plus, I’m not a hard driver, but every now and then I might be prone to doing something stupid….
Yup. Most install them to improve caster/handling and vibration issues. Love mine, best $850 I have spent improving those issues.
You're more apt to damage an inner than the outer stub. I would suggest if you're going to carry spares it should be the inners and at least 1 outer and and extra ujoints.
In the last two weeks I have replaced a broken hub, a broken u-joint that took out the stub shaft yoke and a broken stub that twisted off at the back face of the unit bearing.
We reused the undamaged inners in all 3 instances.
Norm is hub, u-joint, yokes. If 27 spline inner then those will break depending on a few things but about 50/50. If 30 spline which Brian's are, then almost never but the yokes and joints in stockers, joints which damage yokes. In this case, with 30 spline inners and 27 spline outers, at almost no point will the yokes survive a joint failure in either stockers or aftermarket high strength alloy.
If only it could be done for $850 today.
You just got done telling him (in a round about way) that the hubs wouldn't be the first to brake, yet here you're saying that is the progression for someone with 30 spline axels?
If anybody knows, does this mean the locking hub or a normal hub? Are normal hubs a weak point or is he just talking about replacing the Warn/Yukon hub here? The locking hub makes sense but I don't know shit about this stuff.
You do understand I'm referring to a product that Warn made that no longer exists, right?