I have been doing a lot of research on a lot of forums. There are a couple things but no real information. What is the better motor mounts and why. Novak vs advanced adapters vs daves customs. There are thousands of ls swapped jeeps out there and barely any good info. I have almost finished rebuilding my lq4 6.0. I need to make a decision on the mounts.
What are the best motor mounts for an LS swap?
- Thread starter dlerman
- Start date
Looks like a great time to clean the engine bay...
Sorry I cannot help with your question.
Nice. Daves mounts look beefy. Other than the 1" body lift and at least 3" suspension lift. Any other fitment issues. Anything you look back on and would change
Holley is offering kits now also. I don't know anything about them just seem them.
https://www.holley.com/products/eng...997-2006_jeep_wrangler_tj_ls_swap_components/
https://www.holley.com/products/eng...997-2006_jeep_wrangler_tj_ls_swap_components/
I have not seen that one. Unfortunately it is for the 6cyl frame only. Mine was a 4cyl
I wonder what the difference is between the two frames? I was always under the assumption it was just where the motor mounts were placed.
TMR is also offering some now.
https://www.tmrcustoms.com/products/ls-motor-mount-kit
https://www.tmrcustoms.com/products...10509&pr_ref_pid=3706548879437&pr_seq=uniform
TMR is also offering some now.
https://www.tmrcustoms.com/products/ls-motor-mount-kit
https://www.tmrcustoms.com/products...10509&pr_ref_pid=3706548879437&pr_seq=uniform
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You are getting a good start with the body lift and suspension lift, those are a must. Next on list:
- What transmission are you going with? This dictates mounting to skid plate, which you must sort out and engine management.
- How are you going to wire it in, engine management? You can piggyback on stock ecu, and keep your stock gages. Remember, you cannot directly tie into your stock gages, they must be run from stock ecu. Novak has options for retaining stock ecu, gages, and implementing GM harness.
- Cooling, stock setup is inadequate, no matter what anyone says. Get aftermarket radiator. Superior radiators have bolt in units.
- Stock fuel pump is inadequate, there are many options/ways to manage this. You can read about my setup in my build thread.
- It seems insignificant now, but how you are going to do your exhaust,? This is one of top 3 things to sort out. Some like block hugger, I chose a different route. In thread I linked earlier, the drivers header interfered with the steering. Also must consider how you will route exhaust, and on drivers side it gets extremely tight, I have a tread on how I did the exhaust.
- I am sure there are some details I am forgetting right now, but if you have questions, shoot me a PM.
I am doing all the work also. I figured around 15k over time. Ive looked at your build and my plan is similar to your execution. I am going with a 4l60e for the trans. I am taking it in steps as to not overwhelm myself. Superior radiator is the one I figured I would go with. How hot do you run in the middle of summer. I know for me keeping it cool will be an issue since im in AZ. When I am ready to do the wiring I will make final decisions on sensors and gauges. I have found online some wiring harness diagrams that show different setups for the swap. For me on this build everything is unexpected. I know its going to take time but thats part of the fun for me.
Glad to hear you have good budget in mind, you will have good setup when you are done. I took my time, and glad I did, don’t rush.
Electrical can be tricky. I got the wiring diagram from service manual and printed them out. Since I was ditching the stock ecu, most of engine harness went bye-bye, and I spliced in the GM harness. The harness was from Tilden, and plug and play. I went with electric fan from superior on the radiator.
Here in the Tri, we are in desert climate. It gets 100-110 in July to August. On hottest days I was at 210 -215. I thought everything did well.
I think keeping the 4L60 is good way to go. I enjoy to 5 speed, made things more complicated and that is one reason I did document. I could not find anything on LS with 3550.
What did you do to your LQ4? I know will somewhat be dictated by what find when open it up but more I ask/read more confused I get as to what should be done as prevention even if looks ok, what cam profile is good for TJ application, etc.
So I’m not totally derailing thread, here is best discussion I could find for new Holley swap package. Of course it is from Holley so biased I’m sure. https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversi...jeep-tj-ls-lt-engine-swap-systems-thread.html
I did a complete rebuild. Had a shop hot dip, press in new cam bearings and put new pistons on my old connecting rods. everything else I did. I changed my cam to a summit racing 8718. Its a truck cam for more torque. Direct replacement dont have to change valve springs. Bought a master rebuild kit cam with pistons and oil pump. I have a camaro oil pan to replace the truck one. Saves 3 inchs of clearance. The engine is an iron block with iron heads. I bought aluminum heads that came off a 5.3. Saves me about 50lbs and should run cooler. Also raise compression to give more hp and torq. I did a trunnion upgrade so no more needle bearings. New rollers.
It is pretty cool that Holley is now offering this kit. It looks really clean and should make it easier for those who want to do this swap.
You dont want a cam that is to high in the torq band. You dont want to be on a hill and have to put a lot of pedal in it just to start to feel the wheel move. The cam i put in is 800rpm thru 5000. It hits the whole range