What can you do with wood working tools?

BTW- I don't know how many folks have that bumper but don't look at it closely. They really aren't made very well. The concept is there, but the design leaves a lot to be desired when it comes to production. They are warped, bent, and misaligned at most of the places the pieces are joined together.
 
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mrblaine said:
Since you enginerds like fancy shit for doing basic jobs, fetch up one of these.
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They must have sent one of those to every woodwork YouTube channel with more than 10 subsdribers, a while back every new video I saw was somebody with one of these.
 
UKTJ said:
They must have sent one of those to every woodwork YouTube channel with more than 10 subsdribers, a while back every new video I saw was somebody with one of these.
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Probably. I first saw mention of them in a demo about 8-9 years ago when they were first getting them dialed in.
 
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mrblaine said:
I'm not sure what strength you are worried about. The top and bottom flanges still bolt through them to the frame. I'm not using the lower recovery point and will likely cut it off. Basically the bumper is a winch plate that bolts down like all others that just use the top bolts.
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Would it make sense to round the corners on the lower one's so they would be nicer to soft shackles? Aside from being low and potentially a pain to get too, is there any other downside?

asking for a friend ..
 
Vasq said:
Would it make sense to round the corners on the lower one's so they would be nicer to soft shackles? Aside from being low and potentially a pain to get too, is there any other downside?

asking for a friend ..
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The lower holes are shit for anything recovery related. They are right next to a single bolt, bad design, The two pieces that form the eye are not lined up very well so there are sharp edges everywhere, easily hammered on any rocks, and they won't withstand much of a side pull without deforming although I don't think they would fail. All of those issues are precisely why I did what I did. They are basically tie down points for a tow truck and should not even be there.
 
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mrblaine said:
The lower holes are shit for anything recovery related. They are right next to a single bolt, bad design, The two pieces that form the eye are not lined up very well so there are sharp edges everywhere, easily hammered on any rocks, and they won't withstand much of a side pull without deforming although I don't think they would fail. All of those issues are precisely why I did what I did. They are basically tie down points for a tow truck and should not even be there.
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and the second set of holes adjacent to the bumper mount holes, you're just planning on bolting them through the top of the "winch plate" portion of the bumper?
I appreciate your insight.
 
Vasq said:
and the second set of holes adjacent to the bumper mount holes, you're just planning on bolting them through the top of the "winch plate" portion of the bumper?
I appreciate your insight.
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Yes, my concern is that with the longer length sticking past the face of the bumper that I could get more rotational load against the pair of tow hook/bumper bolts. They are only 1.400 inches apart center to center which is a bit close to control a longer lever against them. The stock tow hook is very well designed to keep those forces under control. I felt I need more.

I'm also going to extend the lower deck to pick up the other two swaybar mount bolts like the Savvy does.
 
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mrblaine said:
Yes, my concern is that with the longer length sticking past the face of the bumper that I could get more rotational load against the pair of tow hook/bumper bolts. They are only 1.400 inches apart center to center which is a bit close to control a longer lever against them. The stock tow hook is very well designed to keep those forces under control. I felt I need more.

I'm also going to extend the lower deck to pick up the other two swaybar mount bolts like the Savvy does.
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Very cool. I'll be excited to see what your end product looks like.
 
Vasq said:
another quick question (unrealated): that plate you used to box in the factory UCA mount on the passanger side, is that something that is sold or is that a piece you made yourself?
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I just make them as I need them. The problem with little products like that is by the time I get them figured out, test fit, a few samples and then a production run is I have too much into them to not try and recover that cost in the price. That puts the price higher than the one someone buys, sends out and copies to compete with me. I've got 20 little things like that I could make that make life very easy when doing things but I hate my shit being copied with a passion.
 
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mrblaine said:
You oughta see me trying to explain to machine shops that they can grab a 1/2" shank carbide router bit and do our round over work on aluminum. They never believe it nor will they try it. Chuck that bitch up, crank the speed way up, hit it with the coolant and get after it. Nope, won't even try it.
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The last factory I worked at was a cnc machine shop and we used 1/4” carbide bits in the routers. We even had 1/8” router bits for cutting sheet on the router tables.
 
For those that don’t know, Blair Rotabroach will change your life.

At SEMA IN 2019 I saw that Blair now makes a deep cut Rotabroach. I could have used that years ago in the dealership while installing trailer hitches.

Just clamp the hitch in place and the deep cutter would pass through the thickness of the hitch and allow you to drill the frame.

Faster then transfer punch, center punch, drill a pilot hole, and then use a std. rotabroach.
 
jgaz said:
For those that don’t know, Blair Rotabroach will change your life.

At SEMA IN 2019 I saw that Blair now makes a deep cut Rotabroach. I could have used that years ago in the dealership while installing trailer hitches.

Just clamp the hitch in place and the deep cutter would pass through the thickness of the hitch and allow you to drill the frame.

Faster then transfer punch, center punch, drill a pilot hole, and then use a std. rotabroach.
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That is good to know. Need to see if they have them in 3/8".
 
mrblaine said:
I made some soft shackle friendly recovery points to work with my Mopar front bumper.
Started with a chunk of 1.25" 6061 T6 plate and laid out the outlines.
View attachment 235336
Roughed them in with a M18 Fuel 6" circular saw.
View attachment 235337
Drilled the 2" hole with a hole saw. Did the first round over with a carbide bit in a M18 Fuel router.

View attachment 235338

Finished off the rounding over with a 5/8" radius carbide bit in the router.






View attachment 235340

Finished the outside with a 1/2" round over carbide bit, same router. Drilled the mounting holes to match the factory frame holes, added two more to go through the deck of the bumper.
View attachment 235341View attachment 235343View attachment 235344
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those look nice!
 
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