What did you do to your other vehicle today?

How close to the intuitive manifold did you place it?
If he didn't place it according to this engineering print that they make available he's a fucking idiot.

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The Q&A section is pure gold:

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If he didn't place it according to this engineering print that they make available he's a fucking idiot.

View attachment 262371

The Q&A section is pure gold:

View attachment 262373
X2, You are playing with fire when installing this high level technology.
For the sake of all mankind please install this properly.
There is a reason you don't see a Kimiss turbo installed on Formula 1 cars , it must have been outlawed .:geek:
 
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I have a 2013 F150 Ecoboost that I just finished replacing the entire timing system. Phasers, chains, tensioners, guides, etc...
I also threw in a new Melling high volume oil pump while I was at it.

Anyways, when I got everything buttoned back up I had a no-crank condition & had 6 codes for Cam position sensors & 1 for the transmission range sensor. The gear indicator on my dash was not working so I figured it was the range sensor in the transmission was the main culprit for the no-crank at least and I'd deal with the Cam codes after that. Unfortunately, the range sensor is inside the transmission now on top of the valve body so I had to drop the pan & the valve body to replace the part.

I finished all that up and the no-start condition still existed....Majorly bummed at this point and started troubleshooting through every wiring diagram for the truck and after a week I was still stumped. I ended up towing it to a transmission shop and they ended up replacing the same range sensor in the transmission thinking it was faulty but it ended up being a bad wire that provides the power on a circuit for all the cam sensors that is also tied into the transmission wiring harness.

Turns out when I removed the cam sensors from the valve covers & folded the wiring harnesses back something worked loose and was the culprit. This solved all the code issues but this was after I spent $350 on trans fluid, range sensor, etc... to fix the issue and paid it again for the shop to do the same before the loose wire was tracked down. At this point I was just glad the truck was "done".

Driving home from the transmission shop I could tell something was off and I was dreading that something was messed up with the timing replacement. A mile down the road, check engine light came on but I had my scanner so threw it on there real quick. It was an underboost code related to the turbos... WTF

I make it home and immediately start checking things over and found the charge air cooler pipe had come off because I didn't tighten a hose clamp. Problem solved.

So I take it on a long drive that evening to make sure I'm 100% at this point. Wrong. About 50 miles in I start smelling burning oil and I'm ready to leave the truck on the side of the road. I pull over and notice oil splattered everywhere underneath the truck. I'm searching the internet at this point for a new truck because I'm dooonnnnnneeeeeee but it's 2021 so you know the drill there. Anyways, got my wits about me and started tracking down the source and it ended up being a valve cover where you have to put a tiny dab of sealant across a joint. Re-did that and it's fixed

Took it on a 1,500 mile over Memorial Day weekend with no issues.


Long story short, it was the longest sequence of events I have ever had working on a vehicle but nevertheless, it is done, and the truck runs better than ever...
 
I have a 2013 F150 Ecoboost that I just finished replacing the entire timing system. Phasers, chains, tensioners, guides, etc...
I also threw in a new Melling high volume oil pump while I was at it.

Anyways, when I got everything buttoned back up I had a no-crank condition & had 6 codes for Cam position sensors & 1 for the transmission range sensor. The gear indicator on my dash was not working so I figured it was the range sensor in the transmission was the main culprit for the no-crank at least and I'd deal with the Cam codes after that. Unfortunately, the range sensor is inside the transmission now on top of the valve body so I had to drop the pan & the valve body to replace the part.

I finished all that up and the no-start condition still existed....Majorly bummed at this point and started troubleshooting through every wiring diagram for the truck and after a week I was still stumped. I ended up towing it to a transmission shop and they ended up replacing the same range sensor in the transmission thinking it was faulty but it ended up being a bad wire that provides the power on a circuit for all the cam sensors that is also tied into the transmission wiring harness.

Turns out when I removed the cam sensors from the valve covers & folded the wiring harnesses back something worked loose and was the culprit. This solved all the code issues but this was after I spent $350 on trans fluid, range sensor, etc... to fix the issue and paid it again for the shop to do the same before the loose wire was tracked down. At this point I was just glad the truck was "done".

Driving home from the transmission shop I could tell something was off and I was dreading that something was messed up with the timing replacement. A mile down the road, check engine light came on but I had my scanner so threw it on there real quick. It was an underboost code related to the turbos... WTF

I make it home and immediately start checking things over and found the charge air cooler pipe had come off because I didn't tighten a hose clamp. Problem solved.

So I take it on a long drive that evening to make sure I'm 100% at this point. Wrong. About 50 miles in I start smelling burning oil and I'm ready to leave the truck on the side of the road. I pull over and notice oil splattered everywhere underneath the truck. I'm searching the internet at this point because I'm dooonnnnnneeeeeee. Anyways, got my wits about me and started tracking down the source and it ended up being a valve cover where you have to put a tiny dab of sealant across a joint. Re-did that and it's fixed

Took it on a 1,500 mile over Memorial Day weekend with no issues.


Long story short, it was the longest sequence of events I have ever had working on a vehicle but nevertheless, it is done, and the truck runs better than ever...
I had that same truck at 90,000 miles lost all oil pressure pulling a trailer down the interstate, new engine.

The other thing that I'd caution you to watch is the quick connections to the transmission oil cooler, mine sheared off one day driving down the highway for no reason, lost most of my tranny fluid before the truck went into limp mode.
 
I had that same truck at 90,000 miles lost all oil pressure pulling a trailer down the interstate, new engine.

The other thing that I'd caution you to watch is the quick connections to the transmission oil cooler, mine sheared off one day driving down the highway for no reason, lost most of my tranny fluid before the truck went into limp mode.
I've got 128k at the moment. Time for a Tremor?
 
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Change the oil for the first time in my 2020 Ram 2500. The 6.4L asks for 0w-40 oil and to meet the spec for Ram it has to be Pennzoil Ultra Platinum SRT oil. Cannot find it locally at all, had to order from Amazon. Not taking any chances while under warranty. Oil wasn't too expensive just crazy no one carries it here.
 
And here's what can happen on those trans lines, keep an eye on them. Mine likely cracked at about 120k.

https://www.f150ecoboost.net/threads/need-help-and-please-broken-oil-cooler-line.50090/
Other than those issues, awesome truck.
Very good to know.

In terms of 1/2 ton trucks the Ecoboost is hands down my favorite power plant, especially the Gen 2 since it had a siginificant power increase.

I can't comment on the 1/2 ton diesels that are out now but I've owned most of the rest and the Ecoboost can't be beat
 
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Change the oil for the first time in my 2020 Ram 2500. The 6.4L asks for 0w-40 oil and to meet the spec for Ram it has to be Pennzoil Ultra Platinum SRT oil. Cannot find it locally at all, had to order from Amazon. Not taking any chances while under warranty. Oil wasn't too expensive just crazy no one carries it here.
Among other things with shortages, Amazon and Walmart (local) are out of Mobil 1 0W-20 that I need for my 5.3L GMC.
 
I'm planning on a GM 6.2L V8 in my next 1500.
I have two buddies that have those, they seem fine but I still prefer the power band in my 1st gen EcoBoost even though I have less HP & torque.

If I were to go back to GM, I would look into the 1500 diesel (great power & fuel economy in the 30's) as I'm not a fan of the cylinder shutdown mode & big engines just don't can't compete anymore. The 2nd Gen Ecoboost is still my primary pick and the PowerBoost Hybrid version would be worth entertaining given the output

  • 400 hp (298 kW) at 6000 rpm, 500 lb⋅ft (678 N⋅m) at 3100 rpm
  • 430 hp (321 kW) at 6000 rpm, 570 lb⋅ft (773 N⋅m) at 3000 rpm

All that said, I've never been a brand loyal guy but the F150 is hard to beat now but damn those AT4's sure look good...

The Tundra is getting a boosted V6 so we will see how that goes but it would take a lot for me to go back to Toyota. They are 3rd in line...
 
I have two buddies that have those, they seem fine but I still prefer the power band in my 1st gen EcoBoost even though I have less HP & torque.

If I were to go back to GM, I would look into the 1500 diesel (great power & fuel economy in the 30's) as I'm not a fan of the cylinder shutdown mode & big engines just don't can't compete anymore. The 2nd Gen Ecoboost is still my primary pick and the PowerBoost Hybrid version would be worth entertaining given the output

  • 400 hp (298 kW) at 6000 rpm, 500 lb⋅ft (678 N⋅m) at 3100 rpm
  • 430 hp (321 kW) at 6000 rpm, 570 lb⋅ft (773 N⋅m) at 3000 rpm

All that said, I've never been a brand loyal guy but the F150 is hard to beat now but damn those AT4's sure look good...

The Tundra is getting a boosted V6 so we will see how that goes but it would take a lot for me to go back to Toyota. They are 3rd in line...
TFL overheated their Powerboost on the Ike in one of their recent videos comparing it to the GM diesel 1500.
 
TFL overheated their Powerboost on the Ike in one of their recent videos comparing it to the GM diesel 1500.
I'll have to check that out. I haven't done much research on those yet because I couldn't get my hands on one anyways

I just now having that on-board generator would be sweet