I have not done a lot of research but was not really impressed with the HP numbers on the GM 1500 diesel.
What did you do to your other vehicle today?
- Thread starter Zorba
- Start date
kickice24
Member
yesterday morning I replaced the transmission gear selector shaft seal on my Chevys 4L80E trans in about 20 minutes. unbelievably easy job. checked before bed and no weeping or dripping observed. had a oil spot about 2' in diameter develop in about a week which alerted me to the leak source. dusted the oil patch on the concrete with oil absorbent. at 284k miles the original seal did pretty good, suspect the 3-4 cups of dirt packed atop and around it may have contributed to the failure.
found a removal/installation tool and dust seal on amazon for about $20 and was well worth it.
found a removal/installation tool and dust seal on amazon for about $20 and was well worth it.
New radiator (3rd one I've put in over the last 12 years) for my 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan with the coveted 3.8. The radiator is much easier to replace than the water pump; transverse mounted v6 engines are the work of the devil.
The GC has 240k, and I just can't give up on it. I brought my youngest daughter home from the hospital in it.
The GC has 240k, and I just can't give up on it. I brought my youngest daughter home from the hospital in it.
Excellent. As soon as I need to replace the Golf R (2017) clutch, I'll do a tune as well. The stock clutch just doesn't like the extra 75hp.
I ordered timing belt, pullies, water pump, intake gaskets, and valve cover gaskets for my 2007 Legacy GT. Had to pull the motor at 175k for a refresh. Already have most everything else I need.
Shipping off the turbo for a rebuild today also.
It's getting
* Rebuilt Turbo (Stock, VF40)
* Clutch, throw-out & pilot bearings
* Intake & valve cover gaskets
* Timing belt & water pump
* Several hoses replaced
* Spark plugs
* Removal & block off of the secondary air injection (Already programmed out the CEL)
* Removal of oil line screens to AVCS and Turbo feed lines (DAMN YOU SUBARU!)
Shipping off the turbo for a rebuild today also.
It's getting
* Rebuilt Turbo (Stock, VF40)
* Clutch, throw-out & pilot bearings
* Intake & valve cover gaskets
* Timing belt & water pump
* Several hoses replaced
* Spark plugs
* Removal & block off of the secondary air injection (Already programmed out the CEL)
* Removal of oil line screens to AVCS and Turbo feed lines (DAMN YOU SUBARU!)
kickice24
Member
Finished 'freshening up' the 2005 Dmax. I bought this truck new with the intent of keeping it for the long haul, and with only 160k on the clock, it's hardly even broken in. We've taken meticulous care of it mechanically, but paint failure (clear coat) on insurance work done years ago made the back half look shoddy and known adhesion issues with 05-08 GM paint had bare patches showing on the roof, hood, fenders and doors.
The shop that did the painting that failed stood behind their lifetime warranty and I paid a few bucks to address the peeling on the other parts. Add new badges and some OEM-like center caps to replace the trashed OEMs and the result is a 'new' truck.
Very happy with the results and ready for the newt 16 years!
The shop that did the painting that failed stood behind their lifetime warranty and I paid a few bucks to address the peeling on the other parts. Add new badges and some OEM-like center caps to replace the trashed OEMs and the result is a 'new' truck.
Very happy with the results and ready for the newt 16 years!
Shuttlesworth
TJ Enthusiast
My brother-in-law gave me a battery out of his newly acquire car.(He thought the battery was the issue, now he is on the alternator) So I was able to start my CJ for the first time since mid-April!
Installed a new fan clutch on the old Mercedes. I figured 325K miles was enough for the old one.
I've changed these before (on other MBZ diesels), and had this one apart a couple of times. Its a minor PITA to get it bolted up to the water pump. So I came up with a new technique:
Sawed the heads off of some M8-1.25 bolts to make studs...
Set the fan/clutch assy onto them. I had done it before with a single bolt on the bottom, darn thing wiggles around too much. 3 studs and its stays in place in that axis - used a piece of foam rubber between the radiator and the front of the clutch to hold it up.
THEN I was able to get the first bolt in with comparatively little trouble.
Removed the studs one at a time, placed bolt in hole (which *BARELY* fits in), apply a bit of inward pressure on the bolt head with a small flatblade screwdriver, and use a skinny 10mm open end wrench to get things started. Note disconnected sensor in this picture...
Took it for a test drive - its been running slightly hot ever since I changed the T-stat a couple of months ago. This didn't make any difference whatsoever, so it looks like I'm going to throw the old T-stat back in as a test. HOWEVER - I didn't notice the disconnected sensor at the time - I just saw it when I was post processing these pictures! So I get to try it again tomorrow before I do anything else. I suspect it isn't going to make any difference, but this *is* a thermal switch for the electric fan on the front of the radiator, so I better check it with it on first.
Both T-stats are 80 degree C - the new one is a Stant, which I respect - but the car ran at about 82 all day long with the old one - it now wants to run 92 with the new Stant. "Hecho en China" on the Stant - maybe that's the problem? We'll see what tomorrow's test drive shows, if anything.
I've changed these before (on other MBZ diesels), and had this one apart a couple of times. Its a minor PITA to get it bolted up to the water pump. So I came up with a new technique:
Sawed the heads off of some M8-1.25 bolts to make studs...
Set the fan/clutch assy onto them. I had done it before with a single bolt on the bottom, darn thing wiggles around too much. 3 studs and its stays in place in that axis - used a piece of foam rubber between the radiator and the front of the clutch to hold it up.
THEN I was able to get the first bolt in with comparatively little trouble.
Removed the studs one at a time, placed bolt in hole (which *BARELY* fits in), apply a bit of inward pressure on the bolt head with a small flatblade screwdriver, and use a skinny 10mm open end wrench to get things started. Note disconnected sensor in this picture...
Took it for a test drive - its been running slightly hot ever since I changed the T-stat a couple of months ago. This didn't make any difference whatsoever, so it looks like I'm going to throw the old T-stat back in as a test. HOWEVER - I didn't notice the disconnected sensor at the time - I just saw it when I was post processing these pictures! So I get to try it again tomorrow before I do anything else. I suspect it isn't going to make any difference, but this *is* a thermal switch for the electric fan on the front of the radiator, so I better check it with it on first.
Both T-stats are 80 degree C - the new one is a Stant, which I respect - but the car ran at about 82 all day long with the old one - it now wants to run 92 with the new Stant. "Hecho en China" on the Stant - maybe that's the problem? We'll see what tomorrow's test drive shows, if anything.
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Unboxed the new splashpan for the Silverado and tossed it in the backseat because, A, it's too freaking hot outside. And, B, I have to work in Denver this weekend. A plus to this is that my Labor Day three day weekend has now become a Labor Day five day weekend.
Nothing much. Just yard work. It's good to have a trashy pick up around for dirty work.
When are you going to put the branches in the Trashy pickup ?
Go ahead and RAM them in tight so they don't fall out.
When are you going to put the branches in the Trashy pickup ?
Go ahead and RAM them in tight so they don't fall out.
Hit it like a RAM, Dawg !
Took the old MBZ into the shop for a valve adjustment - something I don't do on that car as the valves are set hot. After some discussion with the mechanic, and a hand test on the way home, I have confirmed what I have suspected: She needs a new radiator after 36 years as the old one is showing the classic symptoms of being clogged. Warm at the top, cold at the bottom, slight overheat on the gauge. New Behr (OEM brand) radiator is $200.
I sure do wish Behr made a radiator for the TJ!
I sure do wish Behr made a radiator for the TJ!
Other than the splash pan on the Chevy and the planned post retirement work on the DeSoto, the other vehicles are doing fine. The Wrangler, OTOH, fcuk me. Replaced the RMS and pan gasket. Moved it to the the other driveway, with an open exhaust, and parked it until the new cat system arrived. Check for leaks everyday. Dry. Cat system arrives and get that installed. Clear all the codes and go for an hour drive. Running good. No codes. Yay!
Go work on a bicycle project for a couple of hours. Call it a day. As I’m walking past the Wrangler, I spot a puddle under it. WTF. Crawl underneath. Crap, it’s oil. Not the RMS, not the drain plug, not the pan gasket. Nope, it’s a pin hole in the fcuking pan.
New pan showed up yesterday. I know what I’m doing tomorrow. At least I won’t be dealing with rusted fasteners this time around.
Go work on a bicycle project for a couple of hours. Call it a day. As I’m walking past the Wrangler, I spot a puddle under it. WTF. Crawl underneath. Crap, it’s oil. Not the RMS, not the drain plug, not the pan gasket. Nope, it’s a pin hole in the fcuking pan.
New pan showed up yesterday. I know what I’m doing tomorrow. At least I won’t be dealing with rusted fasteners this time around.
