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What did you do to your TJ today?


Dunkut88TJ

TJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2020
Messages
290
Location
Knoxville, TN
Looks like RTV was used to seal the waterpump? Typically not needed, the gasket does a fantastic job at keeping it sealed. Though some do still prefer the use of RTV
I had half the people I spoke to tell me to use RTV on mine, and the other half said no way. In the end I figured why I am I paying for this gasket if it‘s not going to do its job. I didn’t use any RTV, torqued it to spec and no issues thus far.
 
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dschwes

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Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2018
Messages
97
Location
SE Michigan
Not sure how to reference a particular post from another thread of this forum so I'll just repost what I put on that page here.

Upgrading the sound system on your Jeep Wrangler TJ page...

I upgraded my stereo and speakers this weekend. After a lot of reading and researching I gave it a go!

For the stereo or as some call it, the head unit I opted for is the Sony DSX-GS80 - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158DSXGS80/Sony-DSX-GS80.html . It a little on the pricier side but I'll explain my reasoning in a minute. The unit does not have a CD player but I can't remember the last time I used a CD anyway. I typically stream from my phone library of music or just listen terrestrial radio anyway.
I chose this received because it has a high power built in amp. Most receivers come with a small built in amplifier with something like 15-22 watts RMS which my previous one had. I was at 18 watts RMS but this new unit is 45 watts RMS and 100 watts peak which is more than double what I had. I really didn't want an external amp. I didn't want to have to find a place to mount it and run all the wires for it and so on. I wanted a simple solution and this stereo solved that problem. I have the OEM subwoofer and amp in the center counsel and with this upgraded stereo and the speakers (which I'll get to next) I installed, there really isn't a huge need for anything more....for me anyway! I figured a different receiver would cost roughly $100 and an amp would be minimum $150 plus all the wiring that's necessary for the amp, this was a more economical choice and easier by far!

As for the speakers, I went with the Kicker CSC5 (5.25") in the dash and Kicker CSC65 (6.5") in the sound pods.
5.25" speakers - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20646CC54/Kicker-46CSC54.html
6.5 " speakers - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20646CC654/Kicker-46CSC654.html

I had to get the brackets to mount the 5.25" in the dash corners. I didn't have to cut anything to make them fit. from everything I've read, in the 2003-06 you don't have to remove a metal bracket in order for these to fit.
Mounting bracket - http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5337789113&icep_item=202963397928
Speaker baffles (Boom Mat) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N4DP5Y7/?tag=wranglerorg-20

As for the rears, it wasn't difficult, but without the right tools, it could be a little more difficult for someone. The sound pods in our later model TJ's as opposed to the earlier model sound bars are not capable of accepting the 6.5" speakers...without modification that is.
I had to cut out wood circles and then I used a router to sand them to size so they could fit in the recessed part of the sound pod where the OEM speakers mount. I had to build that recessed area up to make it level with the rest of the pod to mount the speakers how I wanted them to fit. After the ring was installed into the factory mounting holes for the OEM speakers, I then mounted the new speakers to the wood ring and then the grills are mounted, which do require a new set of holes in the sound pods.

*NOTE* unfortunately I didn't get a picture of the rings I made after I had them mounted in place but below there is a link to something very similar, someone 3D printed theirs. If I ever have to remove my speakers for any reason, I can get a picture then and edit this post.
However, the wood rings are not necessary, I do recommend them. It makes it much easier mounting the speakers where you want them otherwise, you run the risk of them being mounted off center which will be noticeable. They don't sit in the speaker holes well so these wood rings help big time to make sure you mount them centered.
For those of who have a 3D printer or know someone who does (I don't, hence the wood rings) I did find someone who posted what appears to be download files for these rings that you can print. Maybe that will be helpful if you don't have the means to fabricate what I did? I don't know how to tell if this download file is legit so I will post the link and someone that has a 3D printer can verify the validity of the download file and report back.
Here is the link to that page where it shows the 3D printed ring so everyone can have a visual. The download file is on this page as well if you click below the picture that says "Thing Files".
3D mounting rigs for 6.5" speakers in speaker pods - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4617429

1610383793226-png.png



1610383818426-png.png



1610383862389-png.png



1610383891553-png.png



Now that it's all done, I can say that I am happy with everything. It sounds so much better than what was in there. As a side note, the speaker pods do have poly fil in them to help with the sound quality. I put that in over a year ago and it helps! I am very much into good quality sound and I do like loud music and I also like to "feel the bass" but this set up doesn't allow you "feel" the music like a much more expensive and elaborate system would cost but I am very pleased with it.
 

BuildBreakRepeat

Garrett Hoover
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2019
Messages
3,012
Location
Corvallis, Oregon
Not sure how to reference a particular post from another thread of this forum so I'll just repost what I put on that page here.

Upgrading the sound system on your Jeep Wrangler TJ page...

I upgraded my stereo and speakers this weekend. After a lot of reading and researching I gave it a go!

For the stereo or as some call it, the head unit I opted for is the Sony DSX-GS80 - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158DSXGS80/Sony-DSX-GS80.html . It a little on the pricier side but I'll explain my reasoning in a minute. The unit does not have a CD player but I can't remember the last time I used a CD anyway. I typically stream from my phone library of music or just listen terrestrial radio anyway.
I chose this received because it has a high power built in amp. Most receivers come with a small built in amplifier with something like 15-22 watts RMS which my previous one had. I was at 18 watts RMS but this new unit is 45 watts RMS and 100 watts peak which is more than double what I had. I really didn't want an external amp. I didn't want to have to find a place to mount it and run all the wires for it and so on. I wanted a simple solution and this stereo solved that problem. I have the OEM subwoofer and amp in the center counsel and with this upgraded stereo and the speakers (which I'll get to next) I installed, there really isn't a huge need for anything more....for me anyway! I figured a different receiver would cost roughly $100 and an amp would be minimum $150 plus all the wiring that's necessary for the amp, this was a more economical choice and easier by far!

As for the speakers, I went with the Kicker CSC5 (5.25") in the dash and Kicker CSC65 (6.5") in the sound pods.
5.25" speakers - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20646CC54/Kicker-46CSC54.html
6.5 " speakers - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20646CC654/Kicker-46CSC654.html

I had to get the brackets to mount the 5.25" in the dash corners. I didn't have to cut anything to make them fit. from everything I've read, in the 2003-06 you don't have to remove a metal bracket in order for these to fit.
Mounting bracket - http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5337789113&icep_item=202963397928
Speaker baffles (Boom Mat) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N4DP5Y7/?tag=wranglerorg-20

As for the rears, it wasn't difficult, but without the right tools, it could be a little more difficult for someone. The sound pods in our later model TJ's as opposed to the earlier model sound bars are not capable of accepting the 6.5" speakers...without modification that is.
I had to cut out wood circles and then I used a router to sand them to size so they could fit in the recessed part of the sound pod where the OEM speakers mount. I had to build that recessed area up to make it level with the rest of the pod to mount the speakers how I wanted them to fit. After the ring was installed into the factory mounting holes for the OEM speakers, I then mounted the new speakers to the wood ring and then the grills are mounted, which do require a new set of holes in the sound pods.

*NOTE* unfortunately I didn't get a picture of the rings I made after I had them mounted in place but below there is a link to something very similar, someone 3D printed theirs. If I ever have to remove my speakers for any reason, I can get a picture then and edit this post.
However, the wood rings are not necessary, I do recommend them. It makes it much easier mounting the speakers where you want them otherwise, you run the risk of them being mounted off center which will be noticeable. They don't sit in the speaker holes well so these wood rings help big time to make sure you mount them centered.
For those of who have a 3D printer or know someone who does (I don't, hence the wood rings) I did find someone who posted what appears to be download files for these rings that you can print. Maybe that will be helpful if you don't have the means to fabricate what I did? I don't know how to tell if this download file is legit so I will post the link and someone that has a 3D printer can verify the validity of the download file and report back.
Here is the link to that page where it shows the 3D printed ring so everyone can have a visual. The download file is on this page as well if you click below the picture that says "Thing Files".
3D mounting rigs for 6.5" speakers in speaker pods - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4617429

View attachment 217243


View attachment 217244


View attachment 217245


View attachment 217246


Now that it's all done, I can say that I am happy with everything. It sounds so much better than what was in there. As a side note, the speaker pods do have poly fil in them to help with the sound quality. I put that in over a year ago and it helps! I am very much into good quality sound and I do like loud music and I also like to "feel the bass" but this set up doesn't allow you "feel" the music like a much more expensive and elaborate system would cost but I am very pleased with it.
Looks good. Some things I noticed from doing my sound system was the difference in the front using the foam surround vs nothing. I prefer the sound that I get from no foam up front - might be something for you to try out!
 
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Ocho

Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2020
Messages
63
Location
Los Angeles
No idea what you are referring to??
Post #2 is the thread he is referring to. It was created July 9, 2016 and has 22,509 replies as of a minute ago.

You drive a Jeep. It is a TJ.

"What did you do to your Jeep today" = "What did you do to your TJ today".

No need to start a new thread to get your message count up as a new member. Instead, contribute to the current post or create a new post with new content or new questions that you aren't able to find via the search bar.
 

dschwes

Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2018
Messages
97
Location
SE Michigan
Looks good. Some things I noticed from doing my sound system was the difference in the front using the foam surround vs nothing. I prefer the sound that I get from no foam up front - might be something for you to try out!
I had nothing in there when I first got the jeep then I added poly fil which I think helped for the front speakers but I removed the poly fill when I added the foam surrounds. So I am assuming that the foam helps my case like the poly fil did but it would at least be worth trying to see the difference. Thanks for the mention!
 
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dla

TJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2017
Messages
331
Location
SoCal
Love the look! Exactly what I want when I likely replace my tires and wheels in the spring but I keep second guessing myself because I’m afraid the steel wheels will rust too quick on me in Michigan. I’m thinking alloy will be what I ultimately go with so no D windows for me unfortunately even though I think they’re the best looking wheel period! I have a few months to change my mind 5 more times 🤦‍♂️.

Anyone have any experience with steel wheels in heavy salt use northern states out there that care to comment on their experience?
Black Rock makes a “D” window style aluminum wheel.

 

All 4 Wheelin'

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 4, 2019
Messages
527
Location
Washington State
@TheBoogieman and@AndyG. My impression of the Antirock Swaybar is favorable. I need to mention that I drove for 2 weeks last summer with the stock swaybar disconnected full time so I know what that feels like on the road. I wouldn't recommend it. Now, back to the Antirock, I have it set on the middle hole of the 3. On road I didn't feel that handling was diminished by any appreciable amount. Off road I got full suspension travel just like advertised. As a note, I'm running on a 3" suspension lift. With this setup I don't have to mess with disconnecting/reconnecting swaybar links and I enjoy better handling on high speed off road sections.👍👍👍
 
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Chris G

Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2019
Messages
44
Location
Michigan
Looks like RTV was used to seal the waterpump? Typically not needed, the gasket does a fantastic job at keeping it sealed. Though some do still prefer the use of RTV
You looked at that photo really closely! I had to zoom back in to see how visible it is. I used both - just a little bit. I just thought better safe than sorry as I didn’t want to have to get back in there. I should have taken photos of how clean I got the surfaces for where the water pump and the thermostat housing attached. They were perfect. Like new. The real stars of the show!
 
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5632

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 22, 2020
Messages
435
Location
Phoenix, Arizona
@TheBoogieman and@AndyG. My impression of the Antirock Swaybar is favorable. I need to mention that I drove for 2 weeks last summer with the stock swaybar disconnected full time so I know what that feels like on the road. I wouldn't recommend it. Now, back to the Antirock, I have it set on the middle hole of the 3. On road I didn't feel that handling was diminished by any appreciable amount. Off road I got full suspension travel just like advertised. As a note, I'm running on a 3" suspension lift. With this setup I don't have to mess with disconnecting/reconnecting swaybar links and I enjoy better handling on high speed off road sections.👍👍👍
What are the advantages of an Antirock Swaybar compared the the stock one? I do have disconnects on the stock bar but do not know when I should use them. I am not a rock crawler.
 

ChestnutHill

Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2020
Messages
26
Location
Atlanta
Added some rocker switches to the dash. Put a superbrightleds light inside the Tuffy center console and the other is a switch to disable the interior lights when the doors are off (yes I could just pull the fuse, but this is easier and I needed a project). Labeled rocker switch covers from Pacer are on the way.

View attachment 208866

View attachment 208867
Just following up on this. Switch covers finally came. I’m happy with how this turned out.

A2F1334D-9BD3-46D3-8579-DAED197C0794.jpeg
 

All 4 Wheelin'

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 4, 2019
Messages
527
Location
Washington State
What are the advantages of an Antirock Swaybar compared the the stock one? I do have disconnects on the stock bar but do not know when I should use them. I am not a rock crawler.
A stock swaybar will impede the suspension from articulating fully especially if you have a suspension lift. Those disconnects you have allow your suspension to articulate to the max of shock extension and max compression allowed by your bump stops or your tire body contact. The Antirock is a smaller diameter torsion rod compared to the stock bar and therefore allows more torsional twist. No need for disconnects.
 
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Viking Jeeper

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Joined
Jan 10, 2019
Messages
2,243
Location
Jacksonville FL
Oil change, tire rotation, brake fluid flush. The first 3 bleeders were 10 mm the last one was 3/8 and I came very close to stripping it with the 10mm wrench. The pic below is what I sucked out of the brake fluid reservoir. I also did some general maintenance like BreakFree the trackball and shock bolts and torque the control arm jam nuts.

IMG_6305.jpeg
 
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BuildBreakRepeat

Garrett Hoover
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2019
Messages
3,012
Location
Corvallis, Oregon
Oil change, tire rotation, brake fluid flush. The first 3 bleeders were 10 mm the last one was 3/8 and I came very close to stripping it with the 10mm wrench. The pic below is what I sucked out of the brake fluid reservoir. I also did some general maintenance like BreakFree the trackball and shock bolts and torque the control arm jam nuts.

View attachment 217323
If you don't already have it, a 6 point box wrench is much better to use than the normal 12 point ones. Way less likely to strip out!
 

5632

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 22, 2020
Messages
435
Location
Phoenix, Arizona
A stock swaybar will impede the suspension from articulating fully especially if you have a suspension lift. Those disconnects you have allow your suspension to articulate to the max of shock extension and max compression allowed by your bump stops or your tire body contact. The Antirock is a smaller diameter torsion rod compared to the stock bar and therefore allows more torsional twist. No need for disconnects.
About how much is an Antirock Suaybar cost? Maybe it would be worth the cost.