What did you do to your TJ today?

Lesson learned: A 10 minute project can turn into a MUCH longer project very fast. it did not help that I only had 2 batteries for my grinder, and my Milwaukee brushed grinder eats batteries very fast so I had to wait for them to charge


I sheared several torx bits when I removed my hinges. I ended up drilling many of them out. I posted that here somewhere....
 
Well just so happens today I went to install my Morryde tailgate kit too. Factory hinge bolts weren’t that bad since they used 1/2 inch hex bolts in 06. The instructions are TERRIBLE. I did have to cut the tub plate because of my Savvy tail lights, and I believe one tailgate hinge thread is stripped inside the tailgate... overall though it came out nice and the snubbers fit the spare tight.

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If the JKS is unavailable, and you can afford it, id get the currie if I were you. If I could have afforded it at the time being, I wouldve done it in the first place. Ask @JMT about the Core4x4 tier 4 rear TB, as I believe he runs it
Y, it’s not the right angle, but if you cut your crossmember it will work. 🤣
 
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I finally fixed my front end tracking bouncing issue. Installed used Pro comps lower control arm and new adjustable upper control arms a year ago. Originally came with 3.5 inch and stock arms. The Jeep always seems to track badly on the highway. Felt unsafe and never had driven a lifted solid axle vehicle before and thought that was normal. I watched some videos about adjusting castor and camber. Thought this was the way to address my problem. Got under the axle and measured the degrees of pinion angle.
I was off by 2 degrees and made adjustments on the upper control arms.
She now tracks down the highway a little safer.
Anyone doing lifts on Jeeps really needs to know alot before wrenching to make it safe.

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I bought it with a 4” lift and didn’t really understand that the drivability issues were related to shortcuts related to the lift. I thought the components were worn out. So I was replacing piece by piece trying to improve drivability. It finally dawned on me it’s all because of the TC drop shortcut. Once I’m done, I should be in great shape. Nothing else to replace, lol.
I did the same, buying mine already lifted. It can be a pain straighten out some ones mess
 
I took out the goofy leather "boot" that was on my shifter and installed the 98-00 front shifter console on my 01. And then had to swap and modify the Passenger Airbag switch..because... chrysler engineers were aholes and did a design change. Tabs and wire connectors aren't the same. Whoduthunk.
 
I took out the goofy leather "boot" that was on my shifter and installed the 98-00 front shifter console on my 01. And then had to swap and modify the Passenger Airbag switch..because... chrysler engineers were aholes and did a design change. Tabs and wire connectors aren't the same. Whoduthunk.
The goofy fake leather boots came standard on 05-06' Jeeps. They come in handy when the temps get below zero. I guess that's not an issue for you though.🌞
 
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I took out the goofy leather "boot" that was on my shifter and installed the 98-00 front shifter console on my 01. And then had to swap and modify the Passenger Airbag switch..because... chrysler engineers were aholes and did a design change. Tabs and wire connectors aren't the same. Whoduthunk.
Not sure I understand? my 06 boot looks fine? I never really took any notice! got some B4 and after pics.
 
Today was not a fun day. Decided to install my morryde hinge kit, figured it would take like 5 minutes to remove all the bolts on the stock hinges.

I was wrong. It took me at least 8 hours.

Most of the stock torx heads stripped extremely easily, I did not use an impact or anything just a small breaker bar but I could barely apply any pressure since the heads were so soft. I did use a torch to heat up the bolt and soften the threadlocker, but still had no luck.

I decided to try using an easy out despite everyone warning that it could break and be even harder to get out. And of course, it broke in there and was even harder to get out. Luckily I was able to get it out with a cutting disc using a v shaped cut. I tried drilling the bolts out, but it was not working well I think my drill bits got dull. So I ended up grinding down the bolt heads and the factory hinge enough so it would pop off.

It worked, but it took all afternoon. I was able to use pliers to grab the threads and twist them out, except for 2 which are soaking overnight with penetrating oil:
View attachment 235566
I plan on wire wheeling and painting the area under the hinges before I install the new ones tomorrow.

The aftermath of my factory hinges:
View attachment 235570


Lesson learned: A 10 minute project can turn into a MUCH longer project very fast. it did not help that I only had 2 batteries for my grinder, and my Milwaukee brushed grinder eats batteries very fast so I had to wait for them to charge
Alright I’m stuck. These last 2 bolts on the bottom I can’t get grip on with pliers to twist them out like the top:
3F4DE7A7-78F7-41E5-BF6C-505AF31A3FD7.jpeg

They’ve been soaking in penetrating oil overnight, and I put some more on this morning as well as hitting it with my blowtorch a ton. Anyone have any ideas what I can do, other than welding on a nut? I was even able to reach through the wheel well to get to the back and put some penetrating oil from that side, but didn’t help.

Edit: Maybe I could just drill through the bolts and use a nursert or hold a nut on the back when installing the new one?


Also for the roll bar bracket, it’s not fitting in right because of these threaded pieces on the body. Should I grind them out to put the bracket in? The kit comes with a nut to put behind the bracket anyway, it seems like this shouldn’t even be there according to the instructions
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Alright I’m stuck. These last 2 bolts on the bottom I can’t get grip on with pliers to twist them out like the top:
View attachment 235639
They’ve been soaking in penetrating oil overnight, and I put some more on this morning as well as hitting it with my blowtorch a ton. Anyone have any ideas what I can do, other than welding on a nut? I was even able to reach through the wheel well to get to the back and put some penetrating oil from that side, but didn’t help.

Also for the roll bar bracket, it’s not fitting in right because of these threaded pieces on the body. Should I grind them out to put the bracket in? The kit comes with a nut to put behind the bracket anyway, it seems like this shouldn’t even be there according to the instructions
View attachment 235640
I knocked my lower screws out, with it came the "nut" same as the "nut" for the top. I made a new lower nut, maybe you can use your upper nut. It's a PITA to get to but you CAN do it.
 
The best penetration oil I’ve used is a 50/50 mix or automatic transmission fluid and acetone. And Kroil.

The transmission fliud/acetone mixture was put on the bolts/nuts that hold the upper cats to the exhaust pipe. We could not get those things to budge. Sprayed them down around midnight and the next morning they came out like they were not even tight. My buddy says he uses it all the time now in his little side-job working on vehicles.
 
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I knocked my lower screws out, with it came the "nut" same as the "nut" for the top. I made a new lower nut, maybe you can use your upper nut. It's a PITA to get to but you CAN do it.
Wow, those "nuts" and the bracket they were on popped right out. I did not know that was a separate piece, I thought it was welded onto the body. Yeah that's a good idea, I think I'll use the bracket from the top for the bottom so I don't have to find new nuts.
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The best penetration oil I’ve used is a 50/50 mix or automatic transmission fluid and acetone. And Kroil.

The transmission fliud/acetone mixture was put on the bolts/nuts that hold the upper cats to the exhaust pipe. We could not get those things to budge. Sprayed them down around midnight and the next morning they came out like they were not even tight. My buddy says he uses it all the time now in his little side-job working on vehicles.
I've seen this recommendation on here, I made some of this and started applying it to all my skid plate bolts and upper shock mounts for future removals. Did not help for my bolt threads because I wasn't able to get any grip on the threads, so I haven't been able to see how effective it is yet
 
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I've seen this recommendation on here, I made some of this and started applying it to all my skid plate bolts and upper shock mounts for future removals. Did not help for my bolt threads because I wasn't able to get any grip on the threads, so I haven't been able to see how effective it is yet
deep creep is another good one.
 
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Alright I’m stuck. These last 2 bolts on the bottom I can’t get grip on with pliers to twist them out like the top:
View attachment 235639
They’ve been soaking in penetrating oil overnight, and I put some more on this morning as well as hitting it with my blowtorch a ton. Anyone have any ideas what I can do, other than welding on a nut? I was even able to reach through the wheel well to get to the back and put some penetrating oil from that side, but didn’t help.

Edit: Maybe I could just drill through the bolts and use a nursert or hold a nut on the back when installing the new one?


Also for the roll bar bracket, it’s not fitting in right because of these threaded pieces on the body. Should I grind them out to put the bracket in? The kit comes with a nut to put behind the bracket anyway, it seems like this shouldn’t even be there according to the instructions
View attachment 235640
My favorite youtuber says Liquid Wrench is the way to go.

 
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