What did you do to your TJ today?

Nothing to my TJ, but got a good laugh reading about this 2006 X model with 78,000 miles, for sale for $18,000. I tend not to buy Jeeps from people who can't spell axle or winch. :unsure:

I have an extra special Jeep Wrangler! It’s more than a Rubicon it’s a Rubicon on steroids! It has a beefed up Dana 40 front axel with Chromoly steel axels heavy supports for more strength for off road and an Arb air locker. It has a Ford Explorer heavy duty rear axel modified for a TJ, with limited slip and 410 gears for climbing. It has Old Man Emu 2.5 inch lift kit with a 1 inch body lift. It has a wench off road lights special front and rear bumpers. It has a hard top and the soft top frame, but needs soft top cloth. It has summer tube doors, cargo top and kayak carriers. Rock Star wheels and nice 33’s to take you where you want to go. New Bedrug carpet you just won’t find many like this with no rust, low miles and a great price!
better than Rubi.jpg
 
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Irun said:
Finally finished up the frame restoration. While the skids were off, I painted those as well. Total time on the job was 40+ hours. Some call it work, but I call it therapy!

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What did you use for prep and painting? I’m gonna be going through this process soon.
 
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imahnu17 said:
What did you use for prep and painting? I’m gonna be going through this process soon.
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I've done this at least half a dozen times now. For this one, I mixed paint and primer, then applied both with a "detail" spray gun.

https://www.harborfreight.com/adjustable-detail-spray-gun-92126.html
However, I've also done others with what's in the picture. What's missing here are wire wheels for the drill and cordless grinder, with a 4.5" 120 grit flap disc. The roll of sandpaper is 220 grit. The small brown discs are "fiber" discs. The blue trim tool is to remove the front rubber fender liners and rear plastic liners. The most important details to get it done right are:
  1. remove everything possible
  2. clean the surfaces
  3. smooth everything possible with a combination the wire wheels, flap disc, fiber disc, and sandpaper
  4. apply multiple light coats of primer
  5. apply multiple light coats of paint and
  6. don't be in a hurry

view.jpg


Honestly, the results have been almost identical between the two processes, i.e. spray gun and spray cans. The advantage to the spray gun, and mixing, is ease of applying the coats of primer and paint. What's more difficult with the spray gun is the clean up. At some point I really need to do a detailed write up and post it in the "How to" section!
 
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Irun said:
I've done this at least half a dozen times now. For this one, I mixed paint and primer, then applied both with a "detail" spray gun.

https://www.harborfreight.com/adjustable-detail-spray-gun-92126.html
However, I've also done others with what's in the picture. What's missing here are wire wheels for the drill and cordless grinder, with a 4.5" 120 grit flap disc. The roll of sandpaper is 220 grit. The small brown discs are "fiber" discs. The blue trim tool is to remove the front rubber fender liners and rear plastic liners. The most important details to get it done right are:
  1. remove everything possible
  2. clean the surfaces
  3. smooth everything possible with a combination the wire wheels, flap disc, fiber disc, and sandpaper
  4. apply multiple light coats of primer
  5. apply multiple light coats of paint and
  6. don't be in a hurry

View attachment 303875

Honestly, the results have been almost identical between the two processes, i.e. spray gun and spray cans. The advantage to the spray gun, and mixing, is ease of applying the coats of primer and paint. What's more difficult with the spray gun is the clean up. At some point I really need to do a detailed write up and post it in the "How to" section!
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info! I've done similar projects in the past but never to the same level as you have. The mud around here (I'm sure it's like this everywhere too) is very gritty and clay like and it basically acts like sandpaper on the frame when driving through it. Each time I've done the process I've used a different primer and paint and haven't really found any that i particularly like, but it'll try out what you used in those rattle cans.

Three questions I have are, do you have any tips for painting the top and inside of the frame rail? What size or type of wire wheel did you use? I normally use a flap disc and sandpaper by hand. Lastly, did you do this to your axles as well? it's hard to tell from photos. My rear Dana 44 could really use a cleaning and repaint.

Thanks for the help!
 
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NashvilleTJ said:
How is that Rubicon on steroids?

Ahh, must be the Dana 40 front end…

…and the bush crackers.
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The Dana 40 front and "Heavy Duty 8.8 Ford Exploder rear axel". I think his "special front and rear bumpers" make it better too. I've never heard Shittybilt or Barricade described as special before. :unsure:
 
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Since buying my Jeep back a couple of years ago I noticed the rear "cargo" area got wet when it rained. It has gotten worse, yet the tailgate bar weatherstripping looks fine. I looked at prices to replace the bar and was shocked! Thanks to #BareshelvesBiden. I did the only thing my budget would allow and ran down to Walmart. 🤫 End result after raining all morning is zero water. $3.68 well spent IMO. 🥳
Tailgate seal1.jpg

Tailgate seal.jpg
 
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imahnu17 said:
Thanks for the info! I've done similar projects in the past but never to the same level as you have. The mud around here (I'm sure it's like this everywhere too) is very gritty and clay like and it basically acts like sandpaper on the frame when driving through it. Each time I've done the process I've used a different primer and paint and haven't really found any that i particularly like, but it'll try out what you used in those rattle cans.

Three questions I have are, do you have any tips for painting the top and inside of the frame rail? What size or type of wire wheel did you use? I normally use a flap disc and sandpaper by hand. Lastly, did you do this to your axles as well? it's hard to tell from photos. My rear Dana 44 could really use a cleaning and repaint.

Thanks for the help!
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Keeping the frame looking good is an ongoing process. We have red clay and sandy soil here where I am and it isn't kind to the vehicle. I generally do a refresh of the frame in the fall, while the weather is still warm. The beauty of the rattle cans is they blend well. Most of the time all I do, after the major job is done, is lightly sand, or scuff the places needing touch up with a scotch-brite pad.

On the back and top sides access is much tougher, especially on the driver side. What I do for the top and sides is simply clean them, scuff them with a scotch-brite pad, then paint the best I can. Wherever possible, I remove the clips holding the fuel and other lines that run down the frame, before starting my process.

As for the axles, I use the exact same process on them. Truthfully, I prefer to remove them if they are in rough shape. It's not mandatory, but working around everything is more work, in most cases, than it is to pull them and set them on jack stands. The cleanup and painting process with them removed is much, much faster!
 
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TheBoogieman said:
Since buying my Jeep back a couple of years ago I noticed the rear "cargo" area got wet when it rained. It has gotten worse, yet the tailgate bar weatherstripping looks fine. I looked at prices to replace the bar and was shocked! Thanks to #BareshelvesBiden. I did the only thing my budget would allow and ran down to Walmart. 🤫 End result after raining all morning is zero water. $3.68 well spent IMO. 🥳
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Nicely done, and budget friendly!
 
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Irun said:
Keeping the frame looking good is an ongoing process. We have red clay and sandy soil here where I am and it isn't kind to the vehicle. I generally do a refresh of the frame in the fall, while the weather is still warm. The beauty of the rattle cans is they blend well. Most of the time all I do, after the major job is done, is lightly sand, or scuff the places needing touch up with a scotch-brite pad.

On the back and top sides access is much tougher, especially on the driver side. What I do for the top and sides is simply clean them, scuff them with a scotch-brite pad, then paint the best I can. Wherever possible, I remove the clips holding the fuel and other lines that run down the frame, before starting my process.

As for the axles, I use the exact same process on them. Truthfully, I prefer to remove them if they are in rough shape. It's not mandatory, but working around everything is more work, in most cases, than it is to pull them and set them on jack stands. The cleanup and painting process with them removed is much, much faster!
Click to expand...
Sounds like a good way to spend a weekend, on the axles that is. I think I may start making it a routine thing I do every 6 months or so. Seeing your frame all clean and nice is definitely making me want to do the same.
 
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Mike Z said:
Hey man, that's awesome. I replaced my interior lights yesterday with LED lights and after I took apart the dash and got them all going, I felt great. Maybe kindergarten stuff to others, but really who cares? Keep it up with the Jeep and with slowing down. Most of life is the journey.
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Any project on your jeep is a hard project until you learn how to do it. Then you discover that most of them are pretty easy with the right tools. It's that chasm between having a goal and actually starting on the work that causes most people to never even try.
 
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imahnu17 said:
Sounds like a good way to spend a weekend, on the axles that is. I think I may start making it a routine thing I do every 6 months or so. Seeing your frame all clean and nice is definitely making me want to do the same.
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Just don't forget the inside of the frame. Drain holes and your choice of internal frame coating will be worth it!
 
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Irun said:
Just don't forget the inside of the frame. Drain holes and your choice of internal frame coating will be worth it!
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I have drilled holes in the bottom rear section of the frame near the control arm mounts. From every angle I can tell the inside of my frame looks far cleaner than I expected. I'm gonna try and get a camera inside to get a better idea but I may end up just coating it, still trying to figure out a way to evenly spread it out inside the frame.
 
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Irun said:
Just don't forget the inside of the frame. Drain holes and your choice of internal frame coating will be worth it!
Click to expand...

I drilled the extra holes. I make sure to put a power washer nozzle in each frame hole and move it around to flush out evrything. At least every time it's above freezing at night for a couple days.

I ran water to the garage for a sink out there and added a connection for a hose.
 
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