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What did you do to your TJ today?

Zorba

"The Veiled Male"
Supporting Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2020
Messages
9,521
Location
Merritt Island, Fl
Bracket fabbed for front bumper air outlet:
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Woodrow

TJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Joined
May 25, 2021
Messages
664
Location
Oregon
Also tested my oil pressure fixes...fail... probably worse...drove about 5 miles to warm up the engine (yesterday I did rear main, oil pump, pickup and pan seal) and as soon as I went to idle it dropped to zero and check gauges chimed. Then it wouldn't pick back up to 40...hard bumps and whipping the Jeep left around hairpin turns would get it back. Pulled the sensor...oil inside the new wire plug...ordered a dial gauge and one recommended on Amazon from previous posts. No lifter noise. Engine is healthy-ish. If the dial gauge shows zero I'm dropping the pan and replacing the crank bearings.

-Mac
Like you, it seems, my ‘97 150K 4.0 motor ran and sounded fine, but I had the hot idle low oil pressure issue. 2 new oil pressure sensors didn’t fix it. 20W50 oil helped but not totally. Because thicker oil helped and after some reading and talking to experienced mechanics, I came to believe it was most likely crank or cam bearings. I considered trying a new oil pump and crank bearings but ended up swapping in a new stroker. With the same sensor and gauge, the new motor shows near 60 psi when driving and 40 psi at hot idle (the original was 30-40 and 0-15 respectively). Not the most cost effective solution, and it may have been that the old motor would’ve done well for a long while, but I wanted to do a motor swap and a little more power is nice. Still, I‘m interested to see if new crank bearings does it for you. Good luck!
 

macleanflood

TJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2021
Messages
821
Location
Fall Creek, OR
Like you, it seems, my ‘97 150K 4.0 motor ran and sounded fine, but I had the hot idle low oil pressure issue. 2 new oil pressure sensors didn’t fix it. 20W50 oil helped but not totally. Because thicker oil helped and after some reading and talking to experienced mechanics, I came to believe it was most likely crank or cam bearings. I considered trying a new oil pump and crank bearings but ended up swapping in a new stroker. With the same sensor and gauge, the new motor shows near 60 psi when driving and 40 psi at hot idle (the original was 30-40 and 0-15 respectively). Not the most cost effective solution, and it may have been that the old motor would’ve done well for a long while, but I wanted to do a motor swap and a little more power is nice. Still, I‘m interested to see if new crank bearings does it for you. Good luck!
I replaced my third oil sensor with one recommended on these forums from Amazon...reads 40 to 60 psi...no more check gauges!

Only issue is it's off consistently by +20 PSI...the manual test gauge I have shows 20 to 40.

Considering getting a street t, an aftermarket gauge and a pillar gauge pod. Also wouldn't mind monitoring fuel pressure.

Also to note...the "correct" working oil sensor also seems to have fixed my ghost emergency brake light issue and occasional misfire codes. I'm guessing the "wrong" sensors were putting garbage all over the control bus...but I want to get a couple tanks of gas through it before I claim causality.

-Mac
 

Woodrow

TJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Joined
May 25, 2021
Messages
664
Location
Oregon
I replaced my third oil sensor with one recommended on these forums from Amazon...reads 40 to 60 psi...no more check gauges!

Only issue is it's off consistently by +20 PSI...the manual test gauge I have shows 20 to 40.

Considering getting a street t, an aftermarket gauge and a pillar gauge pod. Also wouldn't mind monitoring fuel pressure.

Also to note...the "correct" working oil sensor also seems to have fixed my ghost emergency brake light issue and occasional misfire codes. I'm guessing the "wrong" sensors were putting garbage all over the control bus...but I want to get a couple tanks of gas through it before I claim causality.

-Mac
Good deal. In my case, I drove around for a few weeks with a mechanical gauge hooked up and would usually see 15 psi, but no lower than 10 psi at hot idle, which some say should be OK. I finally found a Mopar sensor (which I am still using on the new motor). That sensor read the same as the original and the parts store sensor I first tried. Assuming my mechanical gauge was correct, 10 psi isn’t enough to keep the electrical gauge from bottoming out and the check gauges light off. Not sure about the other issues though.
 
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WV Native

Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2022
Messages
37
Location
West Virginia
Removed the oem diamond plate rocker guards and replaced the factory rivnuts in the torque boxes with stainless.

A few of the bolts snapped off and a couple more would just spin in the hole. A small chisel made short work of the remaining oem rivnuts.

It was actually a pretty easy part of my torque box rust repair project.

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Fonz54

TJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2018
Messages
975
Location
Monterey, CA, USA
Removed the oem diamond plate rocker guards and replaced the factory rivnuts in the torque boxes with stainless.

A few of the bolts snapped off and a couple more would just spin in the hole. A small chisel made short work of the remaining oem rivnuts.

It was actually a pretty easy part of my torque box rust repair project.

View attachment 319606View attachment 319607
What are you using for new bolts? I bought a set of Rubi rocker guards off of CL. Seller only had nine bolts. Bought some from Grainger and even after painting the new bolt with Rustoleum it is rusting. I used SS nutserts and the factory bolts are nice and clean without rust