What did you do to your TJ today?

[AirborneTexasRanger]

If you decide to reweld it I suggest getting a spool of 309 stainless wire. Clean the pieces inside and out and use weld through primer. If you show me a picture of the other piece without the wrap I can probably tell you what failed.

Edit: From what I can see with the first pic, it doesn't look like the weld failed. It looks like the break happened in what's called the Heat Affected Zone. The area of the metal just outside the weld. This could be caused by heat cycling but I'm not 100% certain.

 

[TheBoogieman]

Got a package last night. Another quality Black Magic part to replace my mangled stock one that was apparently made out of a used tin can. Thanks again to @mrblaine for having great quality products. I installed it this morning since it was a nice 30 degrees outside.
p.s. I also found some surface rust that needs treating now. 🤫

 

[mrblaine]

Got a package last night. Another high-quality Black Magic part to replace my mangled stock one that was apparently made out of a used tin can. Thanks again to @mrblaine for having great quality products. I installed it this morning since it was a nice 30 degrees outside.
p.s. I also found some surface rust that needs treating now. 🤫
View attachment 389847

View attachment 389848

The tab can't be sticking down through that slot. It has to be up inside unless you mow out some material to let the nut sit flat against that side of the mount.

 

[TheBoogieman]

The tab can't be sticking down through that slot. It has to be up inside unless you mow out some material to let the nut sit flat against that side of the mount.

Thank you. I'll go fix that. 👍

 

[TheBoogieman]

Thank you. I'll go fix that. 👍

All fixed.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Got a package last night. Another quality Black Magic part to replace my mangled stock one that was apparently made out of a used tin can. Thanks again to @mrblaine for having great quality products. I installed it this morning since it was a nice 30 degrees outside.
p.s. I also found some surface rust that needs treating now. 🤫
View attachment 389847

View attachment 389848

Well Boog, the sticker you received is a little bland…

🙂

@mrblaine, curious - why the 12 point?

 

[mrblaine]

@mrblaine, curious - why the 12 point?

I like them. They transfer torque better. They look cool. They cost more. And, I like them.

 

[TheBoogieman]

Well Boog, the sticker you received is a little bland…

🙂

That's the opposite side of a business card. Don't make me break out my Hello Kitty stickers to show you.

 

[sab]

So the question is: what next?
1) I could re-weld this header. The weld wouldn’t be stainless. But maybe that’s not bad. Mild steel is more flexible.
2) I could get another header like Banks header for $500:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004CIK628/?tag=wranglerorg-20

or the aFe header for almost $800:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005URAXX2/?tag=wranglerorg-20

3) I could replace with a stock style tubular manifold with bellows for flexibility like on my original 4.0 (pre Stroker):
The Mopar version is over $600:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049EXDFW/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Here is a inexpensive ($95) stainless one (the bellows are non-stainless for flexibility):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075869XV3/?tag=wranglerorg-20

or one of several Chinese mild steel stock style versions like this $175 Omix part:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GT8AN44/?tag=wranglerorg-20

I really don’t know which is the most reliable or best for HP/TQ with my Stroker🤷‍♂️

I can only provide feedback on choice number 1 above. Since it's a stainless header, if you're going to repair it by re-welding, it needs to be done by an experienced TIG welder using the appropriate filler rod, with Argon back-purging (purge the pipe of air by replacing it with Argon), in order to prevent stress-corrosion cracking. With thin tubes, the inside of the pipe becomes hot enough that the oxygen in the atmosphere pulls chromium out of the alloy. Chromium is the main corrosion-inhibiting alloying metal in Austenitic stainless steels. Without the chromium, the heat-affected zone (HAZ) will corrode quickly in an atmosphere of exhaust gases at high temperature. In addition, with Austenitic stainless steels, the HAZ is considerably smaller than that of plain steel because stainless transfers heat much slower than plain steel does. A smaller HAZ means higher stress-concentration. In addition, the thermal expansion of Austenitic stainless steels is appreciably higher than that of plain carbon steel, providing a double-whammy (that's a technical term) for failure in the HAZ. Welding your header with steel wire using a MIG gun and no back purging would be a complete waste of time, I'm afraid.

 

[SAWB]

Interior finished !!!! Sound deadened Everything front to back. New Bedrug carpet and Bartact seat covers…
Even painted the seat frames..
The cab is a lot quieter and a lot less noise from the exhaust and tyres
Before

Your interior picture was all screwed up so I fixed it for you ..... looks good !

 

[TheBoogieman]

Cleaned the puppy puke off the passe ger seat!

Close-up pics or it never happened.

 

[mrblaine]

I can only provide feedback on choice number 1 above. Since it's a stainless header, if you're going to repair it by re-welding, it needs to be done by an experienced TIG welder using the appropriate filler rod, with Argon back-purging (purge the pipe of air by replacing it with Argon), in order to prevent stress-corrosion cracking. With thin tubes, the inside of the pipe becomes hot enough that the oxygen in the atmosphere pulls chromium out of the alloy. Chromium is the main corrosion-inhibiting alloying metal in Austenitic stainless steels. Without the chromium, the heat-affected zone (HAZ) will corrode quickly in an atmosphere of exhaust gases at high temperature. In addition, with Austenitic stainless steels, the HAZ is considerably smaller than that of plain steel because stainless transfers heat much slower than plain steel does. A smaller HAZ means higher stress-concentration. In addition, the thermal expansion of Austenitic stainless steels is appreciably higher than that of plain carbon steel, providing a double-whammy (that's a technical term) for failure in the HAZ. Welding your header with steel wire using a MIG gun and no back purging would be a complete waste of time, I'm afraid.

Probably very accurate for headers but I've welded a ton of normal SS exhaust bends and tube with mig and mild steel electrode and can happily report that I have not had a single issue or failure of any type. It looks like ass, but after a few years it still looks like ass with no change.

 

[AirborneTexasRanger]

Probably very accurate for headers but I've welded a ton of normal SS exhaust bends and tube with mig and mild steel electrode and can happily report that I have not had a single issue or failure of any type. It looks like ass, but after a few years it still looks like ass with no change.

I typically do the same thing for exhaust tubing (not headers) and never had a problem. Mostly because I don't want to bother changing out the wire, purging and swapping the liner.

 

[mrblaine]

I typically do the same thing for exhaust tubing (not headers) and never had a problem. Mostly because I don't want to bother changing out the wire, purging and swapping the liner.

Have you run any mig with stainless electrode and tri-mix lately?

 

[sab]

Probably very accurate for headers but I've welded a ton of normal SS exhaust bends and tube with mig and mild steel electrode and can happily report that I have not had a single issue or failure of any type. It looks like ass, but after a few years it still looks like ass with no change.

Yes, my advice was specifically regarding headers, due to the conditions they operate under.

 

[AirborneTexasRanger]

Have you run any mig with stainless electrode and tri-mix lately?

That's what I typically use for SS if I can borrow a bottle from work. Honestly I don't do it enough to justify buying a separate bottle

 

[mrblaine]

That's what I typically use for SS if I can borrow a bottle from work. Honestly I don't do it enough to justify buying a separate bottle

That explains why you aren't astounded at the price of helium nowadays.

 

[voodooridr]

The tab can't be sticking down through that slot. It has to be up inside unless you mow out some material to let the nut sit flat against that side of the mount.

Well, that explains everything
Thank you

 

[Woodrow]

I can only provide feedback on choice number 1 above. Since it's a stainless header, if you're going to repair it by re-welding, it needs to be done by an experienced TIG welder using the appropriate filler rod, with Argon back-purging (purge the pipe of air by replacing it with Argon), in order to prevent stress-corrosion cracking. With thin tubes, the inside of the pipe becomes hot enough that the oxygen in the atmosphere pulls chromium out of the alloy. Chromium is the main corrosion-inhibiting alloying metal in Austenitic stainless steels. Without the chromium, the heat-affected zone (HAZ) will corrode quickly in an atmosphere of exhaust gases at high temperature. In addition, with Austenitic stainless steels, the HAZ is considerably smaller than that of plain steel because stainless transfers heat much slower than plain steel does. A smaller HAZ means higher stress-concentration. In addition, the thermal expansion of Austenitic stainless steels is appreciably higher than that of plain carbon steel, providing a double-whammy (that's a technical term) for failure in the HAZ. Welding your header with steel wire using a MIG gun and no back purging would be a complete waste of time, I'm afraid.

Great explanation! After mulling it over, I’ve decided to pull it and bring it to a local guy (who is an excellent TIG welder and engine tuner) for his opinion. He did my tailpipe and dyno runs and I’ve also seen some of his custom stainless headers for turbo set ups which are gorgeous.

 

[Kiwi TJ]

Your interior picture was all screwed up so I fixed it for you ..... looks good !
View attachment 389855

😂👍 thanks buddy…. Can you please fix the foot pad on the ‘passenger’ side aswell lol. Bed rug don’t do one for RHD .. cheers