The good thing about insomnia is empty roads. I did the break in process for my new BMB pads this morning at 4am. I definitely smelled the brake pads.
I've actually got a pretty sweet artificial 360 backup cam that will do that for me. I'll try and get a pic of that working tomorrow. I thought about flipping it around and using it going forward for self spotting instead of what I'm currently doing, but I like it so much for backing in, I went this route instead.
I used the brake vacuum pump from Harbor Freight. It didn't work very well and it didn't create enough of a vacuum. I'll try again later this week.
After an hour of trying to get my third brake light pins realigned after installing the Moryde hinges I said F’it and added two blobs of solder, works just fine now.
View attachment 458882
After an hour of trying to get my third brake light pins realigned after installing the Moryde hinges I said F’it and added two blobs of solder, works just fine now.
View attachment 458882
Since you brought it up, I have not had my 3rd brake light since installing my morryde thingy.
Preparing for Hot Springs wheeling trip this weekend.
Swapped the hard top on the 02 for the soft top on the 97. Changed the rear diff oil, possibly for the first time EVER. It had the cleanest RTV job I had ever seen. The fluid was BLACK and very thin/runny. Shame on me for not having looked at it sooner. I think I was planning to do a re-gear this summer and me being a cheapskate was like "no way am I putting in new gear oil only to drain it out in a month" and then I didn't get to the re-gear. Anyway, usually you know you have to jam a screwdriver in there to sort of pry off the cover from the RTV...not this time. It came off with the tiniest bit of effort (much to my surprise) and spilled that black liquid all over me & the driveway. So that was fun. Did the front diff too, which was pretty dirty but still appropriately thick. I changed it out maybe 18 months ago.
Then had to swap bumpers since the bumper on the 97 can't accept the tow bar connections (first time towing) and I can't get the right tow bar adapter here in time. Nothing like the rattle of the impact at midnight to make the neighbors happy.
You should probably lower the oil pan so the crankshaft seal can self center over the harmonic balancer when the timing cover bolts are tightened.otherwise it might be forced upwards and have a limited sealing life
I live 2 miles from HSORV and have never been to it as an ORV park… Back in the late 70s and early 80s as a teenager it was just a bunch of logging roads that we used as our personal ORV park and then the late 80s after I became law enforcement, we used to drive those old Logging roads to find stolen cars, burnt cars, and whatever people were disposing of… i’ve dove the silica pit several times pulling out cars and looking for bodies… there are some beautiful non-technical scenic drives north of Hot Springs Village in the lake Winona area, north of Lake Ouachita and west of Hot Springs to Hickory Nut Mountain..
I used the brake vacuum pump from Harbor Freight. It didn't work very well and it didn't create enough of a vacuum. I'll try again later this week.
I got the new calipers, new rotors, and new BMB pads installed today. I also tried to flush the brake system, but I don't think I did it correctly. I may give it another shot tomorrow.
I tested out the brakes. They work, but they are weak. There is resistance in the brake pedal so I don't believe there is air in the lines. I do need to break in the BMB pads. I don't know when I'll get around to doing that though. That's probably the reason for the weak brake system right now.
We have a cabin/Airbnb not too far from Hickory Nut Mountain. There are some cool fire trails/"roads" back in there. And then closer to Mt Ida there are definitely some fire trails that would be fun to run, but there's always the chance you run into a downed hardwood and then you're stuck. (never mind the fact that you have to cross a waterbar to get to them, my luck the forest service will decide to enforce the rules the day I break them).
No leaks on the TC cover, after a few long drives and heat cycles!! And I cheated by only loosening the oil pan to fit the timing chain cover. I attribute it all to permatex #3 aviation form a gasket. Laid on a thin coat between TC cover gasket, bottom of the front of the pan lifting the felpro gasket up, and bottom of the TC cover. Waited 24 hours for it to cure and so far so good. Hope this can help others.
Trying to psyche myself up for the heater core swap tomorrow. I'm hoping it goes smoothly, but I'm reserving the garage space just in case![]()