What did you do to your TJ today?

bluescapegoat said:
Aligned the steering, mounted the rear view mirror, added a Ram mount, drilled some holes for the mirror wiring (early windshield on late TJ) took it for some test drives. Got the right injector and map data in the PCM but can't get it to fuel properly in boost. Sent a nice chunk of cash to @Flyin' Ryan Performance . Hopefully he can get me a good base tune before my trip Wednesday. Otherwise I suppose I can just bypass the blower.

All of this work and I forgot to buy visors. So I snagged a pair off eBay.

Jeep drives so nice. At this point it's pretty much new.

This I think mostly sums up what I'm considering TJ phase 4 for now until I outboard in the winter. Still have just a couple little things like the tune, valve cover gasket, a new radiator and water pump, etc.

Savvy Mid Arm.
New 35s.
New shocks.
New ball joints.
New wheel bearings.
New Tom Woods front driveshaft.
New shocks and steering stabilizer.
New IRO front lower control arm mounts.
Weld washer rear lower control arm mounts.
Relocated rear spring perches.
BMB front sway brackets.
BMB pads.
BMB caliper flip.
Centric rotors.
New parking brake shoes, hardware, cables, adjuster.
New calipers.
New extended front brake lines.
New custom rear hard brake lines.
RCV front shafts.
Revolution rear shafts.
Front tie rod flip.
New Dana diff covers. (RockHard lower guards on the way)
New PRP seats.
Frame cleaned up and painted.
New body mounts.
New Savvy body lift.
New Aluminum UCF UHC trans skid. (Engine skid struts still need fab'd to work with upper control arm.)
New CavFab sliders.
Poison Spyder corners heavily trimmed and modified.
Tub interior stripped and painted.
Early TJ windshield frame.
New cowl gasket.
All hinges/bumpers/shackles/windshield frame/steering skid/coils media blasted and painted.
New windshield glass.
New injectors.
New map sensor.
New serp belt.
New power steering lines.
All new fluids.
New oil pan gasket.
New RMS.
New MagnaFlow muffler, which sounds way better than expected.

Probably missed some stuff.

35s look tiny, kind of miss my 37s

And I desperately need to fix this lack of bass situation. What is this tiny music for, ants?

I had new SEM interior paints mixed to convert the dash to tan but I'm unsure how much or what parts. I'm kind of liking the funky combo I've got going on now. So in no hurry there but I might do something.

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I run these same wheels , love them
 
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Fitted this Alien shade today in between Spring showers… (then put the top back on) ☹️
Seems to sit pretty low even with me being a Hobbit ,my head almost touches it…. Not sure if that’s normal.
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Kiwi TJ said:
Fitted this Alien shade today in between Spring showers… (then put the top back on) ☹️
Seems to sit pretty low even with me being a Hobbit ,my head almost touches it…. Not sure if that’s normal.
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The amazon copycat shade took a bit of fiddling with the balls (bungee balls) to get mine correct. I used some 550 cord (paracorde) in Kiwi speak to lengthen the middle eyelets to get over top the sound bar and around the middle roll cage. Then she stretched a bit in the heat so more fiddling.
 
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ZazzelDazzel said:
The amazon copycat shade took a bit of fiddling with the balls (bungee balls) to get mine correct. I used some 550 cord (paracorde) in Kiwi speak to lengthen the middle eyelets to get over top the sound bar and around the middle roll cage. Then she stretched a bit in the heat so more fiddling.
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Thanks.... when the sun comes out properly I'll see it I can get it sitting higher.
 
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Before I switched from the Rampage top to the Bestop, I used a JK sunshade on our TJ.
In order to make it fit, I added aluminum rails (1/8" x 3/4" aluminum flat bar) along the top of the roll bar above the doors.
I used the anchors for the door surrounds, and added 1/4" spacers to allow the flat bar to "float".
This gave me something higher than the actual roll bar to secure the bungee cords to, and kept the shade from dancing on my head.

Since swapping over to the Bestop, I have not tried to use a sunshade, but I'll probably figure out something.
 
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Willys LJ said:
I keep saying that one of these days I'm going to pull the steering box and replace the input shaft seal to fix the leak, but as long as the chicken bones, blood, intestines, midnight nude dances with a spear around the bonfire while chanting to the great ancestral god of Jeeps, Eugene, keeps working why bother?

Although the rest of it is entertaining, I think the Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak is probably doing most of the work of keeping the leak to a minimum. Still I do need to replace that seal someday. Especially since I've already purchased the seal/gasket kit.
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I've got the rebuilding kit on my bench for my son's Jeep. I'll be doing it next week. I just rebuilt the pump 2 months ago and its doing quite well. I've rebuilt air and hydraulic motors for my company's equipment before so this is not out of the realm of my experience and the pump was kind of fun. I'm looking forward to the steering gear.
 
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red02tj said:
For now I’m going to pull the old ones, measure and cut accordingly. I’ll reuse the screws I’ve got in place until I know these straps will last and then I’ll replace with rivnuts.
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Got them installed today, took about 30min. The straps are about twice as thick as OMIX and hopefully will hold up better. No install pics but it’s pretty straightforward, especially if you still have existing straps.

1) use old straps as template to cut the curve in the rear of the strap and notch on the front section.
2) burn the loose edges & use solder iron to make new pilot holes
3) install.
4) rivnuts are better than screws but I’ll wait until I see if the straps hold up.

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Found my radiator was leaking this morning on the way home from work. I’m going to check out a couple used YJ radiators this afternoon. I’d rather take a cheap gamble on a quality used one as opposed to a shitty aluminum one that may or may not leak immediately out the box.

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JasterMereel42 said:
I'll probably just go ahead and order the LL within a week. I don't know where the leak is coming from. It could be coming from the gasket, or it could be coming from elsewhere. Switching the gasket out is the cheapest and easiest thing to do to eliminate one option.

As for the trans fluid in there, can I reuse it? ATF+4 isn't exactly cheap.
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I did because it was still very pink in color. Had to add more due to deep pan. But you're right, $10 a quart around here.
 
Went to pick up some radiators. One is oem for sure the other plastic one I’m unsure of but I know I’ve read about the shitty plastic rads blowing out but it appears to be in good condition. $60 for two. The strange thing is my radiator was dripping steadily this morning before warming up fully but after driving 30 minutes to and then back to get these no a drop was coming off the underside. I don’t know what stopped it unless some scale plugged up the leak lol

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Today was a good day. Had some work done locally and boy what a difference in drive ability. The old LCAs and brackets were bashed on my rubicon and the lift on it when I got it did not have the axle sitting right in the front. Also one of my factory 140k mi motor mounts was tweaked bad on one side and the bushing was trashed on the other. My axle seal on the front driver side was seeping too.

So. Brown dog heavy duty motor mounts, metal cloak double adj lower control arms, Barnes LCA brackets welded to the Dana 44, rough country adj track bar, new inner axle seals, dif fluid, and fresh alignment.

I think there’s more improvement still to go but I like my progress so far because it drives really really well now.

Vinsanity28

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