Did you buy it new? Khaki flares were an option on khaki Jeeps.The Jeep came from the factory with a khaki top as well, so the khaki flares made sense.
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Did you buy it new? Khaki flares were an option on khaki Jeeps.The Jeep came from the factory with a khaki top as well, so the khaki flares made sense.
Did you buy it new? Khaki flares were an option on khaki Jeeps.
Did you buy it new? Khaki flares were an option on khaki Jeeps.
Got my state inspection done. I was worried about having a high beam out and didn't have time to replace the headlight (sealed LED). I pulled up and got out, the mechanic jumped in, scraped my sticker off, put the new one on and said, "you're all done." Got home and removed some decals and did some touch-up on my paint chips.
Same…I only get ‘jacked up’ on Mountain Dew
Trying to chase down a cylinder 1 misfire. Went to swap the 1&2 injectors to see if the code moved, but instead tore the o-ring. Got new o-rings, decided that my heat shield was thrashed so I ordered a new one of those too. Looks like the PO may have had a guest.
Pulling the fuel rail is a bit of a pain, can the insulation/heat shield be installed with the rail/injectors in place? It doesn’t get here till tomorrow but I’d like to get it back running today.
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You can't begin to know how much mtn dew I consume. Especially Code Red. Who did a tub swap recently? They posted a video and I caught a glimpse of their code red and immediately had to stop the video & run to QT to make my PAF home-brew icy Code Red. I may need to go to QT now just thinking about it. I do need to test my fuel injector work.....
Un scrunched…All that needs done is heating up my soldering iron and making a new hole in the correct place for the seat belt bolt. Waay cheaper than new, and washed up nice. I Don't know about the other pads, as I only needed the rears… dry lube for the zippers was clutch.
I guess pulling the rail the first time was hard because It clearly hadn't been done in a long time. Apparently it's much easier to put the injectors into the rail and then install the rail into the block. Also a dab of oil on the o-rings seemed to make things go much easier. Now to pray my misfire code either moves or goes away.
Misfire code didnt' go away on its own, nor did the IAC code I got when I forgot to plug it back in (felt like it was impeding my ability to get the fuel rail out, was probably wrong). Last night I bit the bullet & cleared the codes knowing it would re-set my monitors and delay getting inspected...I was already a month out of date. Anyway, took it for a drive last night & then again this morning, got all the monitors ready in record time, and immediately went to go pass my inspection. WOOHOO!
All I did was clean the injectors, replace one rail-side o-ring, and moistened the o-rings with some 5w-20. I did swap the #1 & #2 injectors expecting the code to move, but so far no misfire at all. I have a hard time believing my actions fixed it, especially since I'm pretty sure I tore the o-ring putting it back together Wednesday (long after seeing the misfire code).
For the non Texans - in addition to whatever else they test, you can't have a CEL on, and for cars 2001 & newer, you can only have 1 monitor in not ready status. Older than that you can have 2 monitors not ready. I have definitely worked this to my advantage a time or two.
That must be a county thing...we don't have emission testing here. Just lights, horn, brakes, mirrors, and broken glass.