Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

What did you do to your TJ today?

I've never been able to get more than 17 gallons in mine.

One time I filled up and hit just a touch over 19 gallons... It wasn't by choice I can promise you that. I chose to drive across Eastern Oregon from Madras to Idaho out through John Day for the scenic value of the trip. Never in my wildest dreams did I expect to find a gas station that was closed and had their pumps turned off, at my ill-planed fueling point. I was damn lucky I still had my 5 gallon can loaded on the back. I started sputtering some where around Willow Creek so that was were the panic really started setting in with 80 some miles left to go to Ontario. Pretty sure I coasted into Ontario on fumes...
 
Paid $165 and waited an hour to get a spare key from the Jeep dealer.

Is there a kit to rekey factor door lock cylinders. I need to key my half doors to my factory key and the dealer won't do it anymore.
 
Changed the oil, and insulated the low pressure side of the HVAC.

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Is there a kit to rekey factor door lock cylinders. I need to key my half doors to my factory key and the dealer won't do it anymore.
I re-keyed mine about a year-and-a-half ago using this kit:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1432384844...pid=5337789113&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1

I followed this excellent thread written by @MountaineerTom:


I also added some info to the thread on page 4 about a tool that I found to help with the covers:

 
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The "durable powdercoat finish" on the new door handles I installed last fall was pretty well shot, so I decided to repaint them as well as the spare carrier bracket. Decided on 2k products, epoxy primer followed by a satin black.

While I still think the method of attachment for the door handles is absurd (more on this below), there's something to be said for a handle design made of 99% metal that can be quickly and completely disassembled...

IMG_20240815_144638254.jpg


Handles and carrier bracket, freshly sprayed.

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After letting everything cook in the sun for a few hours, reassembly and reinstallation.

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Pleased with both the application and results. Time will tell if the catalyzed paint wears better. Now, about installing those feckin' door handles...

I've dealt with some stupid automotive design before and, maybe it's just me, but I found the installation of these handles to be a bit of a pain in the ass. That said, it does seem to work once you succeed in getting everything in place and tight. I think the designers of both the door and handle wedges could have done a few things to make the task easier, at the least.

First, better access to the handle and wedges. There does appear to be one small swaged slot (circled in yellow) which can be used to assist in setting the aft wedge, no provisions were given for the other. Thanks to a 1" hole saw, I added this hole (in red) to both of my doors, deburring the edges so as not to sever a finger.

IMG_20240816_185744358.jpg

I'd prefer it was swaged for additional strength but it's fairly close to the edge of the recessed area, which seems to help. This is where the most pressure is exerted when setting the forward wedge.

The second issue, which actually manifests before the aforementioned, has to do with manipulating the wedges into their proper locations. I found altering both wedges slightly makes getting them into position a bit easier. I put them in a vice and bent the upper tabs over by about 45 degrees. This still allows the step/notch to be used when setting the wedge but helps give a little extra clearance when trying to get them positioned. The tabs are bent so that they point away from the handle body when installed. The modified wedge shown below would be installed on the left side of the handle when viewed from the inside of the door. These mods seemed to make reinstalling the handles quite a bit faster and easier than the first time, thought I'd mention them in case someone else wants to give them a try.

IMG_20240816_194418492.jpg
 
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The "durable powdercoat finish" on the new door handles I installed last fall was pretty well shot, so I decided to repaint them as well as the spare carrier bracket. Decided on 2k products, epoxy primer followed by a satin black.

While I still think the method of attachment for the door handles is absurd (more on this below), there's something to be said for a handle design made of 99% metal that can be quickly and completely disassembled...

View attachment 551275

Handles and carrier bracket, freshly sprayed.

View attachment 551276 View attachment 551277

After letting everything cook in the sun for a few hours, reassembly and reinstallation.

View attachment 551280


View attachment 551279

Pleased with both the application and results. Time will tell if the catalyzed paint wears better. Now, about installing those feckin' door handles...

I've dealt with some stupid automotive design before and, maybe it's just me, but I found the installation of these handles to be a bit of a pain in the ass. That said, it does seem to work once you succeed in getting everything in place and tight. I think the designers of both the door and handle wedges could have done a few things to make the task easier, at the least.

First, better access to the handle and wedges. There does appear to be one small swaged slot (circled in yellow) which can be used to assist in setting the aft wedge, no provisions were given for the other. Thanks to a 1" hole saw, I added this hole (in red) to both of my doors, deburring the edges so as not to sever a finger.

View attachment 551284

I'd prefer it was swaged for additional strength but it's fairly close to the edge of the recessed area, which seems to help. This is where the most pressure is exerted when setting the forward wedge.

The second issue, which actually manifests before the aforementioned, has to do with manipulating the wedges into their proper locations. I found altering both wedges slightly makes getting them into position a bit easier. I put them in a vice and bent the upper tabs over by about 45 degrees. This still allows the step/notch to be used when setting the wedge but helps give a little extra clearance when trying to get them positioned. The tabs are bent so that they point away from the handle body when installed. The modified wedge shown below would be installed on the left side of the handle when viewed from the inside of the door. These mods seemed to make reinstalling the handles quite a bit faster and easier than the first time, thought I'd mention them in case someone else wants to give them a try.

View attachment 551285
I freaking hate the way these are installed. The wedge design is the absolute worst and whomever engineered it needs a kick in the 🥜 from every person who's ever had to take one of these off.

There is no reason the latches didn't have small studs on them with access holes to put nuts on the back.

I've still got my driver's door to replace, but refuse to until it breaks and must be done, like the passenger door did.
 
I freaking hate the way these are installed. The wedge design is the absolute worst and whomever engineered it needs a kick in the 🥜 from every person who's ever had to take one of these off.

There is no reason the latches didn't have small studs on them with access holes to put nuts on the back.

Had myself a little whiny bitch session on this just about two weeks ago now....after having to pull both door cards to reset a wedge in each. Your resolution was a bit kinder than mine... :sneaky:

 
Changed the oil, and insulated the low pressure side of the HVAC.

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Is there a reason insulating the A/C lines was not done at the building of the Jeep other than cost? I was considering doing this when I repaired my A/C but I see nobody does this so I held off. The line going to the evaporator is cold and there is condensation forming on it when in use. I would think that this line would be a good candidate I be insulated but i have never seen it done by anyone... not you either... is there a reason? And the line you did insulate I don't know why you did that line. What benefit would that have for the A/C in general? Can anybody please explain this for the A/C kind of is over my head for some reason.
 
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Is there a reason insulating the A/C lines was not done at the building of the Jeep other than cost? I was considering doing this when I repaired my A/C but I see nobody does this so I held off. The line going to the evaporator is cold and there is condensation forming on it when in use. I would think that this line would be a good candidate I be insulated but i have never seen it done by anyone... not you either... is there a reason? And the line you did insulate I don't know why you did that line. What benefit would that have for the A/C in general? Can anybody please explain this for the A/C kind of is over my head for some reason.

Not sure if this is helpful but when I had AC installed in my last house the lineset was definitely insulated
 
Got my “something to keep busy “ project mostly done, a curved license plate mount. I am going to add some 1/16” hard rubber to the mounting stand offs and probably bead blast and paint it black(?). For mock up purposes I installed it on my other tub.


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Serious question, why do you need a mount for this? Always curious about the benefit since I just curved mine around the tub directly
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts