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What did you do to your TJ today?

Been about a month since the last update to the ongoing saga that is Project Long Jeep Hard Roof Rehab, so here goes...

Last time I'd just finished up the major repair just behind the passenger door (missing chunks of SMC fiberglass), flipped the top (thanks again to my neighbor) and started work on the issues topside. Finished off the remainder of the filler work yesterday, today I applied two coats of primer/filler and started blocking it back.

IMG_20241103_164812167.jpg IMG_20241103_164805860.jpg IMG_20241103_164504524.jpg

IMG_20241103_164523980.jpg IMG_20241103_164514850.jpg

Pleased with how all of the spot repairs turned out, though all of this is getting a bit more difficult since the temps dropped. Buddy heater to the rescue once again, but the garage is quite small and I don't like sanding with the door closed. Fortunately, the end of the repairs is in sight...

...but that means it's time for refinishing. I had planned on spraying it myself, but out of courtesy for the folks living in the unit above the garages, I'm considering having it sprayed by a shop instead. As a former body/paint tech, this is a painful decision for me but if feels like the right thing to do. They're nice people and I don't want to gas them out with catalyzed paint fumes.

Before the refinishing, I've got a rather major decison to make...to texture or not to texture, that is the question. I've been playing around with two different products, spraying test panels, and I think I can come pretty close to replicating the factory texture. Spot blending the texture is another matter entirely. @DuckNut had mentioned a friend of his repaired his top and sanded the thing smooth before re-texturing for a consistent finish. While not a bad idea, initially I was hoping to avoid sanding the entire top smooth, but that was before I started the topside repairs, which ended up being more extensive than originally planned. Since then, a third option has materialized. I happened upon @UND_Sioux's build thread, where he's building up a black crystal clearcoat LJ (not dissimilar to my Tessie) and he had his hardtop sanded smooth and base/clearcoated to match the body. While it would still involve sanding the whole shebang-a-bang-a smooth and require the repairs and prep work to be arrow straight (or else risk looking like shite), it would have the advantage of being a much more durable finish, and one that would be easier to maintain. I submit exhibits "Sioux1", "Sioux2" and "Sioux3" for your consideration...

IMG_3690.jpg


IMG_3691.jpg


IMG_3692.jpg


I actually think it looks quite good, but then the old school Jeeper in me waffles on it ('cause it's supposed to be matte black textured, dummy), making the final decision as to which way to go harder. Interested in what the WTF flock sayeth...

My flares are needing some love as well, though I've been tempted to go full "Columbia Edition" and spray them in Graphite base/clear as opposed to the blackout job @UND_Sioux did...

ColumbiaMineHalfDoors1.jpg


ColumbiaMineA.JPG
 
Last edited:
Good design, solid product, and made here by an American. Hard to beat that hat trick.

I can't speak to how the factory hooks, or even these, work with soft shackles, I'm intending to use mine mainly as forward safety line tie-downs when hauling surfskis (a job the factory hooks suck at). That said, I've now been "hooked" twice by the factory jobbies while working on Tess, fortunately without blood loss or permanent damage to any squishy human bits....but it sure woke me up! :D

Been there done that 😂 I have a few pairs of shorts with rips in them from those damn hooks..
The solution was to either change them to hoops or start wearing Daisy Duke shorts 😂😂
I went with the first option.
image.jpg
 
The solution was to either change them to hoops or start wearing Daisy Duke shorts 😂😂
I went with the first option.

No doubt your neighbors appreciate your choice. :D

I saw your loops before, though I just figured your nanny gub'ment had outlawed sharp stabby bits on motor vehicles in your island paradise. :sneaky:
 
View attachment 569864
Cleaned it… since I had to pull @John Cooper out of a mud hole this weekend!!!!

Looks good brother!!!!!

No pictures as BB is in the shop. Started washing last night and still have a ways to go.

After this
IMG_9162.jpg


And this
26F2ED1E-2B76-43A4-B3D8-60865D337CEC.jpeg


Both diffs have been drained and refilled. Thank the lord no signs of water in them.

Carpet is in the process of coming out and getting cleaned.

Going to completely clean the inside, the engine compartment and under carriage.

Still a great day on the trail with good friends!!!!!!
 
Looks good brother!!!!!

No pictures as BB is in the shop. Started washing last night and still have a ways to go.

After this
View attachment 569865

And this
View attachment 569866

Both diffs have been drained and refilled. Thank the lord no signs of water in them.

Carpet is in the process of coming out and getting cleaned.

Going to completely clean the inside, the engine compartment and under carriage.

Still a great day on the trail with good friends!!!!!!

Is that clay in the last photo? If so, I feel like you'd have had better luck driving through setting concrete... :D
 
Been about a month since the last update to the ongoing saga that is Project Long Jeep Hard Roof Rehab, so here goes...

Last time I'd just finished up the major repair just behind the passenger door (missing chunks of SMC fiberglass), flipped the top (thanks again to my neighbor) and started work on the issues topside. Finished off the remainder of the filler work yesterday, today I applied two coats of primer/filler and started blocking it back.

View attachment 569847 View attachment 569848 View attachment 569849

View attachment 569850 View attachment 569851

Pleased with how all of the spot repairs turned out, though all of this is getting a bit more difficult since the temps dropped. Buddy heater to the rescue once again, but the garage is quite small and I don't like sanding with the door closed. Fortunately, the end of the repairs is in sight...

...but that means it's time for refinishing. I had planned on spraying it myself, but out of courtesy for the folks living in the unit above the garages, I'm considering having it sprayed by a shop instead. As a former body/paint tech, this is a painful decision for me but if feels like the right thing to do. They're nice people and I don't want to gas them out with catalyzed paint fumes.

Before the refinishing, I've got a rather major decison to make...to texture or not to texture, that is the question. I've been playing around with two different products, spraying test panels, and I think I can come pretty close to replicating the factory texture. Spot blending the texture is another matter entirely. @DuckNut had mentioned a friend of his repaired his top and sanded the thing smooth before re-texturing for a consistent finish. While not a bad idea, initially I was hoping to avoid sanding the entire top smooth, but that was before I started the topside repairs, which ended up being more extensive than originally planned. Since then, a third option has materialized. I happened upon @UND_Sioux's build thread, where he's building up a black crystal clearcoat LJ (not dissimilar to my Tessie) and he had his hardtop sanded smooth and base/clearcoated to match the body. While it would still involve sanding the whole shebang-a-bang-a smooth and require the repairs and prep work to be arrow straight (or else risk looking like shite), it would have the advantage of being a much more durable finish, and one that would be easier to maintain. I submit exhibits "Sioux1", "Sioux2" and "Sioux3" for your consideration...

View attachment 569858

View attachment 569859

View attachment 569860

I actually think it looks quite good, but then the old school Jeeper in me waffles on it ('cause it's supposed to be matte black textured, dummy), making the final decision as to which way to go harder. Interested in what the WTF flock sayeth...

My flares are needing some love as well, though I've been tempted to go full "Columbia Edition" and spray them in Graphite base/clear as opposed to the blackout job @UND_Sioux did...

View attachment 569861

View attachment 569862

My friend who sanded it smooth basically had to go make all the repairs. I do believe that absolutely no sanding would be required if you had a body shop spray the "chip guard" texture over what is already there. The new texture would easily cover the original.

Here is a snapshot of the textures that can be had.

Screenshot_20241103-192319.png



In my opinion there is no need to sand smooth. A professional body shop should be able to achieve a great finish.

Project is looking good.
 
Edit to my above post.

I think a DIY'er could get a great finish too. This is a two part product and as long as you follow directions you'll achieve good results. Using a quality top coat of choice is also easily attainable.

What I do know about paints is a 2 part paint is not the best choice. Yes it is superior in every way except the one that matters. It is nearly impossible to make repairs due to scratches.

I would go with a single stage satin clear over an automotive paint. On our classics I personally do not like the matched tops. I also like the contrast between the shiny body and the satin top.
 
I do believe that absolutely no sanding would be required if you had a body shop spray the "chip guard" texture over what is already there. The new texture would easily cover the original.
In my opinion there is no need to sand smooth.

That may well be the case, though it feels like I'm already a third of the way there, and I'm not done blocking the filling primer yet. :D

A professional body shop should be able to achieve a great finish.

The crux of the biscuit, as they say. Being that I did this kind of thing for a living in a previous life, I'm a bit leery of others doing the work and tend to be very picky/critical if someone does. While there may well be some quality shops around, finding one that won't bend you over the desk on price is another matter, entirely. The premium/penalty one pays for living near absurd wealth, they figure everyone can be had...

I haven't started the process of finding a shop yet, but that will need to commence shortly. Any idea what your friend paid to have his done? I'm assuming he did the the repairs based on what you said and that the shop handled the texture and topcoat. I would ask @UND_Sioux the same, but I believe he had everything painted at the same time, top, body and flares. Tess doesn't look too bad from 10ft away, but she could use a respray...not really in the budget at the moment.

I really need a 2 bay shop and suitable air compressor, I've still got my spray guns... :cautious:

Project is looking good.

Appreciate that. After dicking around with it on weekends over this summer, I'm glad to be finally finishing up this phase of work.
 
This is a two part product

Many are not catalyzed, but I did notice that about the SEM product.

It is nearly impossible to make repairs due to scratches.

Base/clearcoat systems tend to make spot repairs easier, but that applies more to body repairs where you have panel breaks to work from, where you can blend the base beyond the repair area and then clear beyond that for better color match and uniform finish. This approach does tend to require a larger repair area as well. That said, not really feasible on the hardtop as it has no physical breaks, you'd end up re-clearcoating the whole top anyway.

On our classics I personally do not like the matched tops. I also like the contrast between the shiny body and the satin top.

This is the bit I'm wrestling with. One day I think I'm going for body matched base/clear, the next I've convinced myself the traditional look would be better. Shame I'm not married as the wife would surely make the decision for me...and I'd have a scapegoat if I didn't like the results. 🤪
 
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For those interested, figured I should post the products I'm using in the event anyone else here is looking to tackle repairs on a hardtop or anything else. Our Jeep hardtops are made from SMC fiberglass, which makes some commonly available repair materials incompatible. If you use the wrong resin or filler, your repairs will fail. The fillers and resins listed below are all clearly noted as being SMC-compatible, and serving as your lab rat, I can confirm they are.

Repair products:

IMG_20240908_171605574.jpg IMG_20240908_171301145.jpg IMG_20240908_171509714.jpg IMG_20240908_171356097.jpg

The glass cloth and mat are not SMC specific, just showing them as they're the products I used. I also have a standard weight filler (without fibers) that works with SMC but forgot to shoot a photo of it (and can't recall the name offhand). I will update this post with that info next time I'm out in the garage. You don't really need the fiber filler unless making structural repairs, but then you're probably using resin and glass cloth as well (as I did). Buy a tyvek body condom or two, anything with glass fiber is going to be very itchy stuff. You can get them cheap on Amazon. Sure, you'll spend a couple of hours wallowing in a bag of your own sweat, but it beats the alternative.

IMG_20240902_135453872.jpg

Finishing materials - primers

61vHjrrHYgL._AC_SL1500_.jpg 71iRmtRNVRL._AC_SL1500_.jpg 2K_Rapid_Primer_Filler_3680031.png

Finishing materials - top coat

71OPkP9bmFL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
71lbM4vHNjL._SL1500_.jpg


Finishing materials - texture

51ypU1ThUAL._AC_SL1000_.jpg 3M_08889__04854.jpg

I only used the filling primer on the hardtop repairs, but I've used the epoxy primers as well as the Hot Rod Black top coat on my door handles and spare tire carrier. I used the Clear Glamour over Colorite factory crystal black for repairing a small bit of surface rust under the Trail Rated badge on Tess (see photo below). I've also used the clearcoat on some parts on my other vehicle - it's been on the parts since '08 and just started failing this year, but so has the factory clear from '04 at this point. Spraymax also offers a satin/matte 2k clear as well. I also included the texture materials I've been playing with to replicate the top texture for reference. Neither of the texture sprays are catalyzed.

IMG_20240723_191606335.jpg
 
Been about a month since the last update to the ongoing saga that is Project Long Jeep Hard Roof Rehab, so here goes...

Last time I'd just finished up the major repair just behind the passenger door (missing chunks of SMC fiberglass), flipped the top (thanks again to my neighbor) and started work on the issues topside. Finished off the remainder of the filler work yesterday, today I applied two coats of primer/filler and started blocking it back.

View attachment 569847 View attachment 569848 View attachment 569849

View attachment 569850 View attachment 569851

Pleased with how all of the spot repairs turned out, though all of this is getting a bit more difficult since the temps dropped. Buddy heater to the rescue once again, but the garage is quite small and I don't like sanding with the door closed. Fortunately, the end of the repairs is in sight...

...but that means it's time for refinishing. I had planned on spraying it myself, but out of courtesy for the folks living in the unit above the garages, I'm considering having it sprayed by a shop instead. As a former body/paint tech, this is a painful decision for me but if feels like the right thing to do. They're nice people and I don't want to gas them out with catalyzed paint fumes.

Before the refinishing, I've got a rather major decison to make...to texture or not to texture, that is the question. I've been playing around with two different products, spraying test panels, and I think I can come pretty close to replicating the factory texture. Spot blending the texture is another matter entirely. @DuckNut had mentioned a friend of his repaired his top and sanded the thing smooth before re-texturing for a consistent finish. While not a bad idea, initially I was hoping to avoid sanding the entire top smooth, but that was before I started the topside repairs, which ended up being more extensive than originally planned. Since then, a third option has materialized. I happened upon @UND_Sioux's build thread, where he's building up a black crystal clearcoat LJ (not dissimilar to my Tessie) and he had his hardtop sanded smooth and base/clearcoated to match the body. While it would still involve sanding the whole shebang-a-bang-a smooth and require the repairs and prep work to be arrow straight (or else risk looking like shite), it would have the advantage of being a much more durable finish, and one that would be easier to maintain. I submit exhibits "Sioux1", "Sioux2" and "Sioux3" for your consideration...

View attachment 569858

View attachment 569859

View attachment 569860

I actually think it looks quite good, but then the old school Jeeper in me waffles on it ('cause it's supposed to be matte black textured, dummy), making the final decision as to which way to go harder. Interested in what the WTF flock sayeth...

My flares are needing some love as well, though I've been tempted to go full "Columbia Edition" and spray them in Graphite base/clear as opposed to the blackout job @UND_Sioux did...

View attachment 569861

View attachment 569862

I feel like I can chime in here, I recently bought some parts from @UND_Sioux and as I live in driving distance had the pleasure of meeting him in person. His LJ is great and I saw the top while I was there.

It wasn’t the main topic of discussion, so I didn’t go over it with a fine toothed comb or anything, but I thought it looked fantastic.

As a fellow black Jeep owner I mentioned that I had the front half of mine resprayed at one point. If I remember correctly, he told me about having his resprayed and having the top done like it is at that time. I hope I am remembering this correctly, but he talked about doing the top the way he did specifically because the body is black, and seeing it in person I totally agree.

So that’s a long way of saying I have seen it in person, totally digged it, and as an old school TJ purist, I think you wouldn’t go wrong at all if you do the same.