What did you do to your TJ today?
- Thread starter LJRubiconGuy
- Start date
True but it's going to the pass side where the battery is and where most people would mount a battery tender.
Against my own better judgement, I loaded up the parts shotgun and blasted away at my "no start" issue that began 2 weeks ago. New battery from Costco and new starter from Rockauto.com have NOT solved the no start. When I turn the key to the first position, I get power to everything (lights, climate, etc). Past that to try and start, nothing. No click of solenoid, no nothing. I'm thinking bad ground at this point, but the weather has been keeping me from chasing this down:
View attachment 589848
Luckily, I have the truck as a backup. Not as fun to drive, but actually starts!
If you use a screwdriver in the ignition electrical switch does it start? A bent ignition actuator gave me the same symptoms
Got to ride some fire service roads on the North end of LBL this weekend with the fam. Man what a good time we had. My sister in here bone stock JL followed us idiots through every puddle, creek crossing, and even watched my dumb self about lay mine on its side!!!. 4lo and it walked itself right outta the situation and on down the trail we went!!
Drove it to work last Thursday and when I started it up after work, it did it's usual crank and not start, so turn off the key and restart it and fires up. This time I got a "check gauges" light come on. It stayed on for about 30 seconds or so, then went off. Then I saw the oil pressure gauge was pegged to the right. It was running fine and I kind thought maybe it was electrical gremlins do to having past issues with my stereo that all of a sudden quit working except for the lights, then my dash cam stopped working right. So I drove it home. I did check the oil and it was fine.
Today I forgot about the oil pressure thing and decided to drive it to the store. Then quickly remembered when I saw the gauge going up past it's normal running spot. It didn't peg to the right this time, but it acted like it normally does, but this time it ran between 40ish and the line toward the right. The pic shows the normal areas in blue and the new areas in red. I ordered a new pressure switch and will change that and I might as well change the oil and filter since I haven't done that in a while. I also haven't bee driving it much so I don't think the oil is the actual problem, but I'll change it anyway.
Oh, and I was going to make a thread about it, but I read the other threads that popped up when I made the title, so got the info from those. Just thought I'd share what I did today, ordered an oil pressure switch. LOL
Today I forgot about the oil pressure thing and decided to drive it to the store. Then quickly remembered when I saw the gauge going up past it's normal running spot. It didn't peg to the right this time, but it acted like it normally does, but this time it ran between 40ish and the line toward the right. The pic shows the normal areas in blue and the new areas in red. I ordered a new pressure switch and will change that and I might as well change the oil and filter since I haven't done that in a while. I also haven't bee driving it much so I don't think the oil is the actual problem, but I'll change it anyway.
Oh, and I was going to make a thread about it, but I read the other threads that popped up when I made the title, so got the info from those. Just thought I'd share what I did today, ordered an oil pressure switch. LOL
Swapping out old POS parts with good parts. Have to alter my Barnes track bar bracket but nothing major.
Name a better company than RockJock, I'll wait
Name a better company than RockJock, I'll wait
Saw this in the trailer parking area of Jerry's Home Improvement in Springfield, Oregon.
-Mac
-Mac
When you install the track bar you may want to put anti-seize on the frame side bolt shank where it goes thought the Johnny Joint. Found mine was seized last weekend. It was a major pain to break it back free.
Thanks for mentioning it. I'm a little liberal when it comes to antiseize because of the mud here. I try to avoid wheeling in mud but I'm sure you know that's impossible on this here East Coast
I'm what what do you have to alter the trackbar bracket ? I'm building my hp30 using the Barnes coil bracket kit so I'm curious on what I could look out for !
Here is their bracket. It flips the joint to be double shear with a horizontal bolt. The rockjock track bar is made to be used with the stock vertical bolt bracket. You can either cut the JJ off the bar and reweld it, or modify the bracket.
The bracket also raised my mounting point a good bit so it induced bump steer a little, so modifying the bracket is my best option.
I'm going to take ¼" steel and weld it horizontally betwixt the two vertical flanges and drill a hole through it to mount the track bar. Then I'll need to cut the ends off the bracket to fit the JJ up there. My only concern with doing just that is if the weld would hold up to the stress that bar puts on the bracket. I'm sure I'll be fine with hydro assist, but people without may need additional bracing for that small of a flange.
It was my fault for going with this bracket to begin with. I hadn't realized at the time that RockJock's track bar was non adjustable on the frame end so I didn't think anything of it.
Mudflat
TJ Enthusiast
I just did a normal oil & filter change along with a lube of the front end parts.
‘No big deal, but I’ve got to say that this “Lock-N-Lube” grease gun is a total game changer. The end is locked onto the zerk so you don’t have to hold it in place. It also never leaks at the zerk & you don’t need 3 or more hands to get the job done.
It also seems much cleaner because grease doesn’t get all over everything.
‘No big deal, but I’ve got to say that this “Lock-N-Lube” grease gun is a total game changer. The end is locked onto the zerk so you don’t have to hold it in place. It also never leaks at the zerk & you don’t need 3 or more hands to get the job done.
It also seems much cleaner because grease doesn’t get all over everything.
I just did a normal oil & filter change along with a lube of the front end parts.
‘No big deal, but I’ve got to say that this “Lock-N-Lube” grease gun is a total game changer. The end is locked onto the zerk so you don’t have to hold it in place. It also never leaks at the zerk & you don’t need 3 or more hands to get the job done.
View attachment 590308
View attachment 590309
What grease did you put in it?
Similar threads
