What did you do to your TJ today?

Can you buy that plastic piece you put your switches into? I have a '99 and don't think that came stock until later models. But would love to mount some stuff up there. Where did you run your wires?

It's a 3D printed peice that overpaid for on eBay. I cut and bolted it to the upper trim. You could buy the trim though you'd have to find a way to attach it as the later models have holes in the windshield frame that the trim clips into. I just ran the wires underneath the trim into the dash board. There's plastic covering The A pillar aswell as above windshield so it hides well behind that.
 
What lights are those?
Found the parts on amazon.

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I have a guy locally that rebuilds the 32 RH for $400, but I have to deliver it and if I want any modifications like billet accumulators and pistions I have to provide them. I also do the Redline clutches, steels, and bands. I then go through the sonnax guide and also do the aniti drainback and the fill the torque converter while in park. A good torque converter also is important. Once all of that is done, then I add an oil temp gauge to the pan and a cooler that does not go through the radiator. For the driving I do, this combination seems to work.
 
Finally got into the garage with it. :D Just need to wait for hubby to get home to help move that lawn mower. Tomorrow will be changing transfer case fluid and differential oil on both diffs. :D Before putting it in the garage I got to test out the drawer. Worked great. :D

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Test fitting a storage option for the back of the jeep. I need to change the mounting to rivnuts, and i need to braise it to make it more solid.
83842
 
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I am pissed, I drove 47miles down to get a thinner 7/8-18 lh jam nut. The guy grabs one, puts it on a tie rod and somehow I walk out with a 7/8-14...so now that I get home, I go to put it on and get impatient and wind up destroying a Moog tie rod end...so my project is on hold until I can get another tomorrow.
 
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It was a nice day to take my full door inner panels off to lube up the handle and lock linkages.
Also the center guide channel for the windows and the tailgate handle and lock linkage.

I was literally just thinking about my drivers door today and wondering if it’s an easy job. My issue is, I can not unlock my drivers side door from the inside....I have to use the key. Were you experiencing the same issue? Is it just a matter of taking the panel off and lubing the linkage up?


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Yeah it was easy enough. My inside lock rocker toggle was getting more difficult to push to unlock.
Roll the window down, remove the crank handle with one of those fork tools and make sure that the little clip
doesn't go flying. Remove the door pull and leave the inside door handle in place (no need to remove it).
Remove the 3 screws and use a plastic pry tool for the panel. Then lift up and off.
Carefully pull back part of the plastic dust sheet and go to it.
I used WD-40 Dry lube with the straw. The factory doesn't use grease.
When you reinstall the panel, leave it loose so you can start the screws for the door pull. You'll see what I mean.
 
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Yeah it was easy enough. My inside lock rocker toggle was getting more difficult to push to unlock.
Roll the window down, remove the crank handle with one of those fork tools and make sure that the little clip
doesn't go flying. Remove the door pull and leave the inside door handle in place (no need to remove it).
Remove the 3 screws and use a plastic pry tool for the panel. Then lift up and off.
Carefully pull back part of the plastic dust sheet and go to it.
I used WD-40 Dry lube with the straw. The factory doesn't use grease.
When you reinstall the panel, leave it loose so you can start the screws for the door pull. You'll see what I mean.

Appreciate the insight! Just got to get one of those window crank tools and then get to work! Thanks


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I made these
8393483935

To put here

83941
83940


The cup holder is a prototype, I’m going to make another out of aluminum. The panel in front of the shifter is just to fill the hole for now till I think of a way to use the space
 
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I made these
View attachment 83934View attachment 83935

To put here

View attachment 83941View attachment 83940

The cup holder is a prototype, I’m going to make another out of aluminum. The panel in front of the shifter is just to fill the hole for now till I think of a way to use the space


I like the tray for under the E brake. That is a great idea.

I am guessing because you made the cupholder thing, you don't have the rubber insert that goes in it either? I looked on eBay and they want 30 bucks and up for those inserts. Crazy. Anybody know what other Jeeps had the same inserts if any?? If another style Jeep has the same thing, I can probably find one out in Pic N Pull.
 
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Changed the rear seat from tan to black with a seat cover from Corbeau (to match the front black sport seats) and reinstalled all the hardware and seat belts.

I had taken everything out when I did the Bed Tred install and liked it without a rear seat as a daily driver. Now that it’s not a daily, wanted the seat back for additional passengers.

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Also added Poly Fil to the sound bar. I bought a VDP sound bar awhile back without doing any research to learn that they are junk. I’ve replaced all of the speakers and determined that it’s a 194 LED bulb that’s needed to replace the barely illuminated bulbs it came with. The Poly Fil made a big difference in sound. Also added Boom Mat to both front 4x6’s (no picture).

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Boom mat:
Design Engineering 050350 Boom Mat Speaker Baffles, 4" x 6" Oval (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0039Z3SUM/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Poly Fil (1lb bag is enough for 1 Sound Bar):
Acousta-Stuf Polyfill Speaker Cabinet Sound Damping Material 1 lb. Bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ZPLDY/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
WELL I drove down to the shop where I bought the nut, we found out that the Jeep tie rod is 22x1.5mm, so I jacked up the tie rod end and the $8 nut. Just pisses me off. So I am not going to use the fox shock yet until I get my dana 44's built, so I rednecked a pin bar eliminator that gives me 5" up and 4" down using JK shocks. I also found that the previous owner had put a track bar relocation bracket on subsequently I removed it once I found it. Now the track bar fits but bottoms out...so I may have t redrill the hole and go back to a stock track bar. The stock track bar seems to be bent better.

I also had the lower pads left over from a JL take offs that I picked up, I tried them, they tipped the springs into the bump stop cups, so those are coming off. My YJ was sooo much easier to set up. Just when I think that I am making progress, I fall back with parts that either dont fit or are just not right. Well I will be doing more next week.

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Picked up a new champion AGM battery from pep-boys. Was 25% for an online order - store pickup. Usually 189, discontinued to 146, + a $40 mail in rebate. Feel I got a pretty good deal.

Also installed the 5.25 Polks with boomat in the front dash.
 
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