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What did you do to your TJ today?

Plumber1

Member
May 27, 2019
47
Northern CA
Isn't it not recommended to store a hard top in that way?
I have been using this rack for about 3 years so far no problems. I am assuming that they have designed it to support the top properly. I take my HT off usually around the first of May and put it back on around the first part of Nov. and again no issues
 
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psrivats

TJ Addict
Supporting Member
Jun 4, 2018
1,553
OR, USA

Not_Invented_Here_

TJ Enthusiast
Jan 15, 2019
276
Kansas City
I made some fill panels to go in the lower rear tub corners behind the rear wheels because the stock ones didn’t fit very well. Hopefully they’re better at keeping mud out. View attachment 98296View attachment 98297


View attachment 98298
YOOOO this is something I need to do. One of the panels at that same corner you pictured is warped or something and does not fit snuggly, kinda hangs down.

What did you use do to that and how exactly did you fasten it?
 

B4_685

Member
May 7, 2017
36
UAE
I rebuilt the np231 transfer case today, and it went pretty well.

Here it is as removed:
View attachment 97717

First thing I did was pressure wash it. And then I used a slightly-too-small hex head socket in the drain plug and stripped it out. It's the same exact thing I did to the fill plug a few months ago, so I took the same tact and ground the threads off of a big-ass bolt so that it fit into the stripped out hole and welded it in. Now I have a matching 19mm headed fill and drain plugs, and I'll never need to buy the right sized hex head.

I popped off the yoke. I don't remember using this much silicone when I installed the slip yoke eliminator. I tried using a little less during this rebuild.
View attachment 97718

I pulled off the tail housing after fighting against the silicone for a long time. I just wasn't hitting it hard enough with the rubber hammer to separate the tail from the main housing. Once it broke loose I popped out the seal and bearing and was happy to feel a little bit of grindy-ness when spinning it in my hand. Hopefully replacing this bearing gets rid of the squealing that I've been hearing. I ordered it directly from Teraflex because I assumed it would be a different bearing than the original tail housing. It's a #6207 bearing. I bought two from Teraflex, along with two seals, just in case it's a special kind of bearing and I can't source it down in Baja. Well now I know that you get a 6207 bearing in the standard np231 rebuild kit, so I have two spares.
View attachment 97719

Again it looks like I used too much silicone when sealing the case and it clogged up the filter quite a bit.
View attachment 97720

Here's my weird looking finger showing you where the oil passage needs to line up. The mounting stud with the nut on it came out when I was separating the transfer case from the transmission. I put some red locktite on it and tightened it back into the transfer case with some vise grips.
View attachment 97721

The chain and everything looked in pretty good shape. It didn't seem like it was stretched out but I replaced it all anyway.
View attachment 97722

I replaced the plastic pads on the top shift fork. The lower fork doesn't seem to have pads that are replaceable.
View attachment 97723

I've got a nice pile of parts going. I kind of like knowing that I get to do all of that degreasing, just slowly and methodically. But I also get weird stress when my only vehicle is in pieces so I kind of have a love-hate relationship with all of those little tasks that just eat up time but need to be done to feel like you did the job right.
View attachment 97724

This job was the first time I've seen this kind of snap ring - it just has a little groove for a screwdriver to pop it out of it's nook, and then you get to try to grab it with some other little implement to pry it the whole way out.
View attachment 97725

I pulled out the planetary gear to get to the final bearings. The snap ring that keeps in the planetaries is comically large and I wish I'd taken a photo of it.
View attachment 97726

This bearing was the hardest part - I don't have any bearing pullers and I'm not sure what kind you'd need, so I just went about chiseling it down and out. It wasn't pretty and I scored the bearing surface a little bit, but not enough to hurt it I pray.
View attachment 97727

Old and slightly busted, new and complete:
View attachment 97728

Here it is all rebuilt with the new "extended" drain/fill plugs. I debated painting the whole thing but I think I'd rather be able to drive somewhere tomorrow. I put a coat of paint on the cross-member, taking it from orange back to satin black, and I also painted the transmission mount because it was pretty crusty.
View attachment 97729

The rebuild kit came with a bunch of spare parts - or at least I hope so :D
View attachment 97730
Just did this a couple days ago - bit fiddly but well within the DIY scope of most. Bought this tool : It’s a pilot bearing puller - worked well although I had to get creative when I ran outta threads pulling that stupid bearing outta the case.

902edebfd6b8c274c2ba9857b4b05d83.jpg


58138c52cfbb8c5c29a55c9125c76dc7.jpg


Ended up with spare parts in the quadratech kit as well

Edit: Oh and the 4.0 comes with a transfer case balancer which needs a tool to reinstall or patience and a brass drift



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B4_685

Member
May 7, 2017
36
UAE
Installed LED’s on the TJ

a887e91f33383378d28a21e9377a7758.jpg


314a7e318b385f2a035bfc5fb51d0ba4.jpg


Parking light mod: changed from Amber turn signal to red US spec.
.......3rd edit:
Had to modify LED Brake light assembly to turn on at half brightness with rheostat (324 Ohms) for ‘parking lights’ ; the LED brake light becomes brake (Full bright) + park light (1/2 brightness). This frees up the LED assembly’s original ‘park’ light circuit for use as a turn signal.

Still need to install a relay in each independant brake light circuit to switch off the Brake light if turning and braking tho as the full bright brake light overpowers the turn signal....

ea4d9a4ca211700b0d6c248a2d30357c.jpg


791292d15757eeba995ba5da69a7e9b5.jpg







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Last edited:

-T.

TJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Did a wash, polish and wax? Mind telling me how long it took you to do all that considering that you actually removed the plastic components too.
I did it over quite a few days in the evenings, but it could be done in weekend with some planning and getting parts in order. Heck, if everything comes apart as it should, you could do it in a sokid day.I had to order new hood latches becsuse the old ones had to be cut off and I had cut / pry / mangle the bolts out of the nutserts on the front flares. I just replaced all of those with stainless nuts, bolts and washers. I'm not sure the flares need to come off, but I was planning to install new ones anyway, so this just seemed like a good time to swap them out. Honestly, the buffing, polishing and waxing is the easy part. The disassembly and reassembly was more painstaking. Old Jeeps don't like to come apart.

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matkal

TJ Enthusiast
Mar 17, 2019
205
Michigan’s Thumb
YOOOO this is something I need to do. One of the panels at that same corner you pictured is warped or something and does not fit snuggly, kinda hangs down.

What did you use do to that and how exactly did you fasten it?
I used 1/8" ABS that I got from work but someone posted a link to WalMart, I believe, where you can order a 2'x2' piece. I cut part of the flap off, the flange mostly and just used sheet metal screws to attach.
 

fourpointzero

TJ Enthusiast
Jun 1, 2016
897
New Jersey
Decided to ‘plug’ the factory holes on my rocker panels, where the side fender used to sit. Could have painted them to match my factory paint, but decided to keep it black. It sort of gave the Jeep, in my opinion, a utilitarian-type of look. As long as its not an open hole, Im happy.

I found the ‘plug’ at Lowes. See image for size and item number.

23d684229ee70df2a391defc38539b53.jpg
aac91661f9d0cf67e4b5db32ca2648bf.jpg
df1bfa01cbba9a8a6561cce45cc2536d.jpg



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-T.

TJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Dammit man, details! Give us the low down! Lol
Hmmm.. Whatcha need? BFG KM3s on 15x7 steel wheels from a 84 Chrysler New Yorker. I had them sandblasted and then put about a million rattle cans of Rustoleum gloss white paint on them. :) I was going to have them powder coated, but I know I am going to scratch them, so I didn't want to stress about the money spent. Spray paint is cheap.

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