I've always felt 5 lugs equal 5 spokes, 5 holes, 5 .... And yes, I think you are correct.
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What did you do to your TJ today?
- Thread starter LJRubiconGuy
- Start date
I’ve been planning on doing this as well. Which duplicolor wheel paint did you use, and did you use clear coat afterward? How long did it take to do all of the wheels, and how long did you have to wait for them to dry? Sorry for the barrage of questions. I’ve been watching tons of YouTube videos, but IMHO real life answers are always best.
Also, welcome to the forum!
Just added my new tires and wheels, grandsons like them
Mammoth Boulder wheels, 15x8 & Mickey-Thompson tires 32/11.5
MT now have a 100.00 dollar rebate, I took it out yesterday
For a drive, very nice ride so far.
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liquidfluidity
TJ Enthusiast
Adjusted my hood. I'm pretty sure that my girl has been hit in the front. There are some water leaks and body panel issues that I am starting to try and straighten out.
LOL My OCD just went into overdrive. I have 5 lugs and and 8 holes
, better get new wheels now.
My mechanic recharged my A/C (after I rebuilt the engine) and checked/ adjusted my timing, he said it was 2-3 degrees off. My master cylinder was seeping brake fluid onto my freshly painted inner fenders
mechanic said I should drain a bit out as it was on the high side of full so I sucked a couple of syringe fulls out....we'll see if that does the trick.
mechanic said I should drain a bit out as it was on the high side of full so I sucked a couple of syringe fulls out....we'll see if that does the trick.So far I replaced all factory shocks with rubicon express mono-tube shocks. In the process I broke 6 bolts. I then picked up some Moab wheels that I’m replacing my old Mickey Thompson wheels with. The PO had put 33” tires on it with 3.73 gears so when I’m in 5th gear I essentially cannot accelerate at all. Today I’m picking up some new milestone Patagonia’s to put on the moab wheels. I also put on a new rubicon express steering stabilizer. Last things on the list of to-do’s is remove the 3” body lift the po installed but one of the bolts is just spinning so I’ve decided to take a break for now 
Last night I put the LJ in to summer mode- removed the hard top and doors, installed the mirrors, and filled the fuel tank in preparation for today's commute.
I do like the 4.88s, now it's a matter of accruing mileage for the break-in period and oil change.
I do like the 4.88s, now it's a matter of accruing mileage for the break-in period and oil change.
I kind like the MT wheels.So far I replaced all factory shocks with rubicon express mono-tube shocks. In the process I broke 6 bolts. I then picked up some Moab wheels that I’m replacing my old Mickey Thompson wheels with. The PO had put 33” tires on it with 3.73 gears so when I’m in 5th gear I essentially cannot accelerate at all. Today I’m picking up some new milestone Patagonia’s to put on the moab wheels. I also put on a new rubicon express steering stabilizer. Last things on the list of to-do’s is remove the 3” body lift the po installed but one of the bolts is just spinning so I’ve decided to take a break for now
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Had the black version of those in 17" on my JKU.
Corner notch on the outside block isn't right.
Another beautiful black TJ. NiceSo far I replaced all factory shocks with rubicon express mono-tube shocks. In the process I broke 6 bolts. I then picked up some Moab wheels that I’m replacing my old Mickey Thompson wheels with. The PO had put 33” tires on it with 3.73 gears so when I’m in 5th gear I essentially cannot accelerate at all. Today I’m picking up some new milestone Patagonia’s to put on the moab wheels. I also put on a new rubicon express steering stabilizer. Last things on the list of to-do’s is remove the 3” body lift the po installed but one of the bolts is just spinning so I’ve decided to take a break for now
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Roadhawg011
Member
After putting it off for like a year, I finally did a proper setup of my rear axle (4 adjustable control arms).
When I got the arms (Metalcloak) I just stuffed them in at stock length for the lowers and a little longer for the uppers for pinion angle, but I obsessed with keeping the arms equal lengths. The rear was rock hard, but I thought that was just the Bilstein shocks.
Eventually got round to it after reading a couple threads here and let the arms be whatever length the axle wanted (square to the frame, clearance to the fuel tank and trackbar and pinion angle good) and my gosh the ride is like 100x better! I guess the axle was fighting the arms constantly previously! It feels totally transformed in the rear now! Super happy.
Feels like the rear wheels are more centered in the arches too.
When I got the arms (Metalcloak) I just stuffed them in at stock length for the lowers and a little longer for the uppers for pinion angle, but I obsessed with keeping the arms equal lengths. The rear was rock hard, but I thought that was just the Bilstein shocks.
Eventually got round to it after reading a couple threads here and let the arms be whatever length the axle wanted (square to the frame, clearance to the fuel tank and trackbar and pinion angle good) and my gosh the ride is like 100x better! I guess the axle was fighting the arms constantly previously! It feels totally transformed in the rear now! Super happy.
Feels like the rear wheels are more centered in the arches too.
Wired in a tiny switch to overide the door chime when doors are open and the key is on. Simple yet glad to have it done.
Pulled the soft top and put the hardtop back on my ‘01. I know wrong season but I need room in the garage to park it and start my build.
AgentLJ
TJ Enthusiast
Finished the repair to the window frame above the door skin. Small dent and paint chips. Painted with pewter metallic per a forum member suggestion. Could not find silverstone metallic, (PS5) LOCALLY. Color is too gold, not a good match.
Water leaks are a bee-atch. If it's coming in the front and ending up in the footwells, be sure to check the seam between two body panels at either end of the piece where the windshield gasket is mounted. You have to flop the windshield forward (removed in pics) and lift up the edge of the gasket (also removed in pics) to see the seam.
The factory fills it with body putty and in mine, it was pretty dried out and a bit rusty, indicating some water penetration. I dug out the putty, cleaned up the metal, blasted with some etching primer, and then re-sealed it with some Lexel clear sealant (industrial stuff). It would be easier to get to if the windshield hinges were completely removed but that requires removing the doors and I didn't have time when I did this. You will probably need to put something under the rubber seal to lift it and keep it off of the sealant while it dries or it may be next to impossible to ever remove it.
On my 2001, I also sealed the rest of that seam as it goes down and across the inside of the well under the cowl (also removed in the pics). Sealing the place I'm pointing to in the last pic is what finally got my 2001 to stay dry. I'll probably seal that one this weekend...if it doesn't rain.
Should I go get a puller? I think some others have had success with that.
Heat and penetration oil isn’t working for me.
Heat and penetration oil isn’t working for me.
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