What did you do to your TJ today?

New to me Rubicon 2003. Trying to get the setup right. I did the Rough Country high lift skid plate, 1.25" body lift, and 1.25" motor mount lift and compressor relocation bracket. I ended up with about 2.5" additional clearance at the lowest parts of the skid plate and 1.25 at the body. Biggest difficulty came in with getting the rear pinion angle dialed in. I already had an appropriate double cardan rear drive shaft so needed to get the rear pitched up. Unfortunately the rear shocks no longer cleared the rear edge of the spring perch. I ended up deciding to remove a notch from each perch to allow clearance for the shocks. Did not require much trimming as they move away as the rear travels up. The new skid plate is way beefy but smaller with nice design, tapered angles at the edges and hidden hardware. All done for under $ 500 from Morris 4X4.

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Now that I have all the needed parts, got more-or-less done with the rear drum brake job. "More-or-less" because I need to open the first one back up because I figured out that I have a spring in backwards. The replacement springs are a different style from what was on there so I got confused. Inside cooling off right now, if it doesn't start raining like its been threatening to do all day, I'll go out in a bit and get that spring done.

Its been 1.2 forevers since I did a drum brake job. You would think auto mfgs would just do away with drums altogether - surely basic disks are about the same cost to build what with the drum's greater fussiness and complexity. But they're too busy spending our money on electronic crap instead.
 
Now that I have all the needed parts, got more-or-less done with the rear drum brake job. "More-or-less" because I need to open the first one back up because I figured out that I have a spring in backwards. The replacement springs are a different style from what was on there so I got confused. Inside cooling off right now, if it doesn't start raining like its been threatening to do all day, I'll go out in a bit and get that spring done.

Its been 1.2 forevers since I did a drum brake job. You would think auto mfgs would just do away with drums altogether - surely basic disks are about the same cost to build what with the drum's greater fussiness and complexity. But they're too busy spending our money on electronic crap instead.
Especially a pain with the Ebrake also in the drum.
 
Water leaks are a bee-atch. If it's coming in the front and ending up in the footwells, be sure to check the seam between two body panels at either end of the piece where the windshield gasket is mounted. You have to flop the windshield forward (removed in pics) and lift up the edge of the gasket (also removed in pics) to see the seam.
The factory fills it with body putty and in mine, it was pretty dried out and a bit rusty, indicating some water penetration. I dug out the putty, cleaned up the metal, blasted with some etching primer, and then re-sealed it with some Lexel clear sealant (industrial stuff). It would be easier to get to if the windshield hinges were completely removed but that requires removing the doors and I didn't have time when I did this. You will probably need to put something under the rubber seal to lift it and keep it off of the sealant while it dries or it may be next to impossible to ever remove it.
On my 2001, I also sealed the rest of that seam as it goes down and across the inside of the well under the cowl (also removed in the pics). Sealing the place I'm pointing to in the last pic is what finally got my 2001 to stay dry. I'll probably seal that one this weekend...if it doesn't rain.
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Do you have a backed out photo- this is in so close I am only guessing the window is laying down forward and you are showing the inside of windshield hinge — I have a leak on my passenger floor mat that appears when i part slightly uphill or level.
 
Wired in a tiny switch to overide the door chime when doors are open and the key is on. Simple yet glad to have it done.

I need to do that too. Can be kind of irritating. I thought of trying to figure out how to disconnect the chime itself. I don't want to do away with the lights. Although, the switch would be handy for making those turn off. LOL :D

So, how did you do it? :D
 
Yesterday the kid put the new windshield in so today I put stickers on it. I went with a different font then the last one, but I'm not liking it to much. I'm going to give it some time and see if it grows on me, if not, I will print another one up using the same font as the old sticker. If I can remember what it was now. LOL

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And you all say TJ's don't have Easter eggs. :D LOL

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Especially a pain with the Ebrake also in the drum.
The ebrake wasn't a problem, the self adjuster was until I figured it out - plus it just been so darn long since I'd done one of these. The first one took 2 or 3 hours, not including time lost because I didn't have all the parts - the 2nd took about 45 minutes! The backwards spring has been corrected, the Jeep passes its test drive, and the ebrake sets up a lot sooner than it did before. As Hickok45 would say, "Life is good". Rusty detritus now in recycle bin for tomorrow's pickup!
 
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Yesterday the kid put the new windshield in so today I put stickers on it. I went with a different font then the last one, but I'm not liking it to much. I'm going to give it some time and see if it grows on me, if not, I will print another one up using the same font as the old sticker. If I can remember what it was now. LOL
Ready for a tour of the local homeless encampments? ;)
 
Do you have a backed out photo- this is in so close I am only guessing the window is laying down forward and you are showing the inside of windshield hinge — I have a leak on my passenger floor mat that appears when i part slightly uphill or level.
Sorry 'bout that. You actually had it right except that I have the windshield completely removed. Here are some positioning shots. The upper arrow points to the area I sealed a couple of days ago and the lower arrow points to a place lower down in the same seam where a fairly good size gap exists. As I recall this was not a big gap in my 2001 so they probably changed the design but, it was there that sealing it up finally fixed the leak in my 2001...which also put water in the passenger footwell.:mad:

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Should I go get a puller? I think some others have had success with that.
Heat and penetration oil isn’t working for me.
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I'd try a pickle fork. The damper is being replaced, right?
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You can get them at any auto parts store and could probably borrow a loaner one for free...call around.
 
I need to do that too. Can be kind of irritating. I thought of trying to figure out how to disconnect the chime itself. I don't want to do away with the lights. Although, the switch would be handy for making those turn off. LOL :D

So, how did you do it? :D
I simply pull the key out halfway 🤷
 
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The ebrake wasn't a problem, the self adjuster was until I figured it out - plus it just been so darn long since I'd done one of these. The first one took 2 or 3 hours, not including time lost because I didn't have all the parts - the 2nd took about 45 minutes! The backwards spring has been corrected, the Jeep passes its test drive, and the ebrake sets up a lot sooner than it did before. As Hickok45 would say, "Life is good". Rusty detritus now in recycle bin for tomorrow's pickup!
Gotta love Hickock45!!!
 
I'd try a pickle fork. The damper is being replaced, right?
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You can get them at any auto parts store and could probably borrow a loaner one for free...call around.
Yup the damper being replaced. That bolt gave us fits! Heat,PB BFH, swear words,ball joint separator, and a sawzall got us going.

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Cleaned the dashboard, including taking out the instrument cluster, popping the clear plastic off and dusting out the little thangies that had worked their way in. Buttoned all back up and lubed proper with Meguiar's Natural Shine protectant.
Tomorrow, I hope to be able to put it back in the TJ!