What did you do to your TJ today?

Like you, it seems, my ‘97 150K 4.0 motor ran and sounded fine, but I had the hot idle low oil pressure issue. 2 new oil pressure sensors didn’t fix it. 20W50 oil helped but not totally. Because thicker oil helped and after some reading and talking to experienced mechanics, I came to believe it was most likely crank or cam bearings. I considered trying a new oil pump and crank bearings but ended up swapping in a new stroker. With the same sensor and gauge, the new motor shows near 60 psi when driving and 40 psi at hot idle (the original was 30-40 and 0-15 respectively). Not the most cost effective solution, and it may have been that the old motor would’ve done well for a long while, but I wanted to do a motor swap and a little more power is nice. Still, I‘m interested to see if new crank bearings does it for you. Good luck!
I replaced my third oil sensor with one recommended on these forums from Amazon...reads 40 to 60 psi...no more check gauges!

Only issue is it's off consistently by +20 PSI...the manual test gauge I have shows 20 to 40.

Considering getting a street t, an aftermarket gauge and a pillar gauge pod. Also wouldn't mind monitoring fuel pressure.

Also to note...the "correct" working oil sensor also seems to have fixed my ghost emergency brake light issue and occasional misfire codes. I'm guessing the "wrong" sensors were putting garbage all over the control bus...but I want to get a couple tanks of gas through it before I claim causality.

-Mac
 
I replaced my third oil sensor with one recommended on these forums from Amazon...reads 40 to 60 psi...no more check gauges!

Only issue is it's off consistently by +20 PSI...the manual test gauge I have shows 20 to 40.

Considering getting a street t, an aftermarket gauge and a pillar gauge pod. Also wouldn't mind monitoring fuel pressure.

Also to note...the "correct" working oil sensor also seems to have fixed my ghost emergency brake light issue and occasional misfire codes. I'm guessing the "wrong" sensors were putting garbage all over the control bus...but I want to get a couple tanks of gas through it before I claim causality.

-Mac
Good deal. In my case, I drove around for a few weeks with a mechanical gauge hooked up and would usually see 15 psi, but no lower than 10 psi at hot idle, which some say should be OK. I finally found a Mopar sensor (which I am still using on the new motor). That sensor read the same as the original and the parts store sensor I first tried. Assuming my mechanical gauge was correct, 10 psi isn’t enough to keep the electrical gauge from bottoming out and the check gauges light off. Not sure about the other issues though.
 
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Bought baby some new sneakers. The old tires were all cracked on the treads.

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Removed the oem diamond plate rocker guards and replaced the factory rivnuts in the torque boxes with stainless.

A few of the bolts snapped off and a couple more would just spin in the hole. A small chisel made short work of the remaining oem rivnuts.

It was actually a pretty easy part of my torque box rust repair project.

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Removed the oem diamond plate rocker guards and replaced the factory rivnuts in the torque boxes with stainless.

A few of the bolts snapped off and a couple more would just spin in the hole. A small chisel made short work of the remaining oem rivnuts.

It was actually a pretty easy part of my torque box rust repair project.

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What are you using for new bolts? I bought a set of Rubi rocker guards off of CL. Seller only had nine bolts. Bought some from Grainger and even after painting the new bolt with Rustoleum it is rusting. I used SS nutserts and the factory bolts are nice and clean without rust